EVADERCHAOS

Order from tower and get $25 off of the pro. You can't beat that.

SpecialEd

Okay...so...I've been home sick with meningitis for two weeks now (well...half of one of those weeks was spent in the hospital). I'm not looking for sympathy...was only using that as a preface to explain that I've had A LOT of spare time on my hands lately. Also have not been active on the forum because too much web stuff makes the brain hurt I have, however, been using the time to my Evader's advantage.

I got a '68 Camaro body for my 38th birthday earlier this month (for those doing the math it means I was born in...'68...hence the '68 Camaro). The body looks good on the Evader but it was missing something...road wheels and tires. So I just finished putting together my road ready Evader (pics attached below).

I also realized that I had so many spare parts that I could nearly build a completely new Evader. So...given that I've had a lot of time...I started that project too. It's now nearly complete. I have an issue on that note I would like your input on. I think my ESC is fried...or close to it. I took my Trinity D6 12x2 motor apart and cleaned it since it had been through white sand beaches and red sand in Utah recently. When I put it back together the motor would only run for a minute and then almost stop. I say almost because even when I let off the throttle it seems the armature wants to spin (albeit very very slowly). It's like there's still power going to it but I'm not sending the juice. Yes, I've checked my throttle trim and that's not it. In fact, if I power off the ESC and power it on, the motor sits still indefinitely. Only when I hit the throttle does it do the "vibrating" thing. I thought maybe it was the motor so I went out and bought a new Method R 15x2 Pro. That motor does the same thing. That's why I suspect the ESC. The ESC is an Intellispeed 12T. Anyone experienced anything like this before? Am I on the right track? FYI...the ESC was initially powering a Speed Gems 10x2 motor which is much more than it should have (came to me that way...I didn't do it). I think running that 10T did something that's just now coming to a complete head.

Sorry for the long post, y'all. It's nice to be back among compatriots. Oh yeah...pics of the new body and wheels/tires (Pro-Line Speed Hawg II tires riding RPM Typhoonz wheels).

[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devCamRoad1.jpg]Camaro Evader Pic 1[/link]
[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devCamRoad2.jpg]Camaro Evader Pic 2[/link]
[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devCamRoad3.jpg]Camaro Evader Pic 3[/link]

SpecialEd

Oops...sorry the images are so large. Thought they'd be smaller on-screen. I'll mod them if you need me to.

Okay...the problem with meningitis is that it's a brain infection. Hence the reason I'm having so many freaking problems with putting images in my post tonight I just changed them to links (no need to make people wait while large images load to the screen).

Peas out!
Ed

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

The Camaro body is cool, but I want to know about the bug body. I would like one for my Vader
BTW Loose the long ugly antenna. if you had a Spektrum radio you can keep the short antenna inside the body.
Good luck with your recovery.[sm=sunsmiley.gif]
Ron

SpecialEd

Ron,

The bug body is made by HPI. Here's a link to it on Tower -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZ44&P=7

I agree...I don't like the long antenna either. I'll eventually get the Spektrum but am not ready to drop the cash on it just yet. As soon as I get my motor and ESC situation sorted out I'll be dealing with the Tx. The problem is...for which truck do I get a new Tx first? My E-Maxx is the one I've put the most $$ into so it would be the likely candidate. I suppose I could get one Tx with multiple receivers, right?

Thanks for the well wishes.

John (Ed)

cheech4

i have 4 sets of those batteries, 7 cell 3300 mah and they give you lots of punch and have good run times. im very happy with those batts

slimdiggie

well to late lol I already picked up the Evader ST today not the pro....just ran it for the first time about 30min ago wow this truck is nice!! I am very happy so far with my choice in RC Truck. Where can I find some nice body's for it? Any other info or suggestions would be great!

Slim

cheech4

hey all im gone for a week and BAM theres dozens of posts wow, people talking about the usuall stuff hahaha, leaky shocks, b2 diffs, TOE BLOCKS BREAKING....BRYAN from positive RC, PM me i need a brace....

any way i have been gone for a week not cuz i was on vacation, nooooooo i had no power, astoria queens had massive power failure. Anyway first time that the power is back and im right back to one of my favorite places to be, yes this forum.

cheech4

hey the regular vader is a nice truck too but can i make 1 recomindation.... go to tower hobbies and get yousrself this..... heres the link......[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEE3&P=Z[/link] it will make it alot stronger and also ask bryan for a brace

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

When you buy a new Spektrum DX3 it comes with 2 Rx.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SPM2030F
Ron

raz54

Hey cheech, good to see you're back, I thought you deserted us. I was gone for 3 days myself and can't believe how many posts there are.

cheech4

nah i will never desert you guys especially this forum. im a die hard evader. got 2 of them and love every single thing about them. its just a shame that i wasnt involved in all the past conversations in the last 8 pages, i could have had some input my self. SO im back strong as can be ( unless the damn power goes out again ).. BRYAN i need a brace please Email me the invoice.

EVADERCHAOS

Welcome back guys!

Bryan @ Positive RC. I need your Help!
lol

bornthreat

A glad you guys are back, can I get a lil assistance here? Thx

cheech4

yeah i can help here, ok you can put any set of the ST wheels in the back of the BX but not in the front, they wont fit. unless you want to go another route and replace the front nuckle arm with the ST nuckel but thats changing the whole idea of a buggy and making it into a truggy. ummmm, proline makes buggy wheels for the associated b4 that will fit the BX heres the link.....[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMF2&P=0[/link]....they also have these here that will work also for the fronts.....[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMF0&P=M[/link], these are the tires that will work for the rears......[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=M[/link] and these will work in the fronts.....[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU14&P=M[/link],,,,

other then those mentioned i really havent seen any other style of wheels besides stock for the BX

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

How well does the bug body fit the Evader body posts?
Ron

dylan0123

I have an Evader Bx Electric. It's 2 weeks old.
I just bought a 12t Double-wound Speedgems Nitronite Motor and a 8t limit Intellispeed F/R esc and installed them both. My gears are the stock 23 pinion, 81 spur. I used a 3500mah 8.4v 7 celled NiMH hump battery in it. I ran it for the first time out on pavement. I went slow at first to sort of break in the motor. I ran it until I thought the battery was completely low (the car wouldn't move while on the ground). I took the body off, and the PLASTIC HAD MELTED ON MY $30 BATTERY. I haven't messed with it since. I just got back in the house, sat down, and started typing this. Holy crap, this pisses me off beyond belief.

When my buggy was completely stock (gears, motor, tires) except for the 8t limit esc, it ran hot. The motor was untouchable after a full battery, and the metal plate near the gears was very hot too. Did anyone else notice that? My friend has the exact same buggy as me and his also overheats while stock.

1. Do I need to lower my pinion gear to a 22 tooth? Using this site: http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm I found that the best pinion to use is a 22t. I read that the rule of thumb is 9 teeth more than the turn of the motor, in my case 12t + 9 = 21t pinion. Whatever...

2. Is my gear mesh too tight or something? I read about the whole using-a-piece-of-paper-and-not-tearing-it method. Maybe I should use it? I never had a problem with it before when I went from the stock motor to my 19t motor.

3. Should I buy a different sized Spur gear or something?

4. What else could I do to fix the overheating? Should I just not run it non-stop for the full 3500mah battery? I have 2 1500mah 7.2v 6 cell NiCd batteries, and 1 3300mah 8.4v 7 cell NiMH battery

Thanks for all the help, and please PM me quickly, I'm going on vacation soon and want to get parts ordered before then. Thank you soooo much.

Please PM me If you have info or help. Thanks, I really need this.

QuailRC

Hey Ron will the spectrum take a rechargable pack or just dry cells?Oh I just found it in the manual it does accept a jr plug for charging.

4 stroken ron

My Feedback: (29)

Yes, but a standard 50 mil JR wall wort charger won't charge most of these consumer grade 2300-2500 mil AAA NiMh batteries that are out there at Wal Mart and other places. You can buy a set from Venom with there own charger but they are high dollar. I charge my Ray-o-Vac 2300s, with my Triton at 500 mil for 4 or 5 hrs. and they are good for a month.
Another alternative is to go here
http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/mai...7575&chem=NICD
and get the KR1400AE or KR1700AU NiCads and your standard 50 mil JR wall wort charger will charge these.
Ron

slimdiggie

where can I find some sick bodies for my evader st or are they all the same style as the stock one that came with it? My first RC run was last night wow this thing flys.. but, hey anything probably would if I have never had one...everything is good so far on the evader st can't wait to get out there again!

Slim

SpecialEd

Ron, the front fits okay on the stock posts. You have to rig something for the back though because of the way the shock towers rise higher than the posts themselves. I bought a Team Associated kit (can't recall which one now) that had various parts in it (shock parts, body post extenders, etc). It had just what you need. I'll take pics of the things I used and post them a little later on today.

John

SpecialEd

Slim, you have lots of choices as long as you're willing to do a little work to make the bodys fit. I've now put three different bodies on my Evader...none of them close to stock. All three bodies are made by HPI but I'm sure you could use others. The trick is in rigging up the body mount posts. I'll be posting my setup for Ron a little later. For now, here's a sample of the three bodies...

[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devoBugSide.jpg]HPI Baja Bug Body[/link]
[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devCamRoad2.jpg]HPI '68 Camaro Body[/link]
[link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/devStang4.jpg]HPI '65 Mustang Body[/link]

SpecialEd

Ron, before I forget, thanks for the 411 on the Spektrum (# of rx that come with). That makes it much more appealing.

The bug body had to be mounted differently than either the Camaro or the Mustang because it is much higher in the rear than in the front (not true of the others). I therefore had to use spare E-Maxx front body mount posts. I zip tied the posts to the shock tower using one of the shock mounting holes for support. The pic here shows an arrow pointing to the mount point [link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/bodyMountRear.jpg]Rear Mount Point[/link]. As I have the Camaro body on, the posts aren't actually mounted. I put a second zip tie on to make it stable. Here's the Traxxas part I used [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP12&P=7]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP12&P=7[/link].

The first pic also shows the body mounts I'm using for the Camaro and Mustang bodies. They simply sit right on top of the stock mounts on the shock tower. The front mounts I used for the Camaro and Mustang are exactly the same as the rear (the set came with 4 of them...perfect). Here's how the front looks [link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/bodyMountFront1.jpg]Front Mount Rig[/link]. And with one of the added mounts removed so you can see that there's nothing else needed except something to strap them down with [link=http://geekrc.johnwisephotography.com/images/bodyMountFront2.jpg]One add-on removed[/link].

The Baja Bug, aas I mentioned in my last post, does not require anything special for the front. That's because the front of the bug slopes just right to allow the stock Evader body mount to come through the body. Of course you may have different results if you move the body forward or backward from where I have mine.

I searched Tower but couldn't find the T.A. kit I used. I know that all three of my LHS carry the kit. I threw away the packaging so can't remember it's exact name. It also comes with taller mounts that you may be able to use for the rear of the bug. They're thinner than the Traxxas mounts but should still work. Oh yeah...HPI also puts out a similar kit that you may be able to find.

John

cheech4

sick like this one.......


that was from an HPI MT silverado body, you have to get body mounts to get any other body style to fit the evader.

cheech4

I have to say i LOVE THAT CAMARO. its awsom... one of my favorite cars and year also.. you said HPI makes it... IM gonna get me one...