The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
the shocks on the b4 i just got wouldn't fit but i would consider putting ae or hpi firestorm shocks on just cuz they'ld be smother or lighter
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I'll try the shock position on the inside and see if it helps. What are "clips"....are those the things that prevent the spring from compressing...if so, which ones fit the evader? (Tower HObbies?)
Lastly, if that doesn't work (and it's funning trying and messin' with this), we'll go to aluminum shocks.
Lastly, if that doesn't work (and it's funning trying and messin' with this), we'll go to aluminum shocks.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
you should've gotten some clips that are probally 1/2 in long, the clip around the shock, at the top and the pretention the spring, raising the ride hight, and causeing more tention on the spring so your caps sould fall off less, if that don't work a drop of CA could fix your problem but make shock maintence a pain, unless its a drop no more...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
There's no way I'm reading the other 479 pages so if this has been covered, sorry. Is there a nice tough front bumper/brush guard that will fit the evader? Ive broken 2, and don't feel like buying another one since its just gonna do the same thing. Also, do the graphite "hop up" parts do any good? Are they any stronger than the regular plastic? Thanks
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
i think you can get some off flea bay i just checked, i personally gave up buy a new bumper, if you have the alumium hinge pin plate you'll be fine ive dove into a rock from 4ft up and it's fine but i know some one was selling them a while ago,
as for the grafite parts i have um on my pro they're pretty durable i've beat on um hard and only busted one a arm and i've beat on mine pretty hard but if you have the reg plastic they're not worth the extra $ imo
the lug
as for the grafite parts i have um on my pro they're pretty durable i've beat on um hard and only busted one a arm and i've beat on mine pretty hard but if you have the reg plastic they're not worth the extra $ imo
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: FairTax4me
There's no way I'm reading the other 479 pages so if this has been covered, sorry. Is there a nice tough front bumper/brush guard that will fit the evader? Ive broken 2, and don't feel like buying another one since its just gonna do the same thing. Also, do the graphite "hop up" parts do any good? Are they any stronger than the regular plastic? Thanks
There's no way I'm reading the other 479 pages so if this has been covered, sorry. Is there a nice tough front bumper/brush guard that will fit the evader? Ive broken 2, and don't feel like buying another one since its just gonna do the same thing. Also, do the graphite "hop up" parts do any good? Are they any stronger than the regular plastic? Thanks
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Nylon or lexan TBR- http://www.t-bone-racing.com/hpi.html Read about the warranty. Well worth the price. I have them on all my R/C's
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Called them on the EXT shock breaking, and had 2 new rear shocks in about 3 days (only needed the cap, they sent the whole set up with white springs - anybody need parts?). They are in the giving mood. lol.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
i go by if you can touch it for 5 sec you're good, but i've gotten them way hotter, but yeah, 155 sounds good, in my book, electric rc motors shouldn't get over 200 in nitro they should but 155 fines just don't go to much more to play it safe...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
which by all laws of electronics should've blow 4 turns ago, maybe you're pack can't give it the voltage, just cuz it's a sport pack and not matched HV cells[8D] and are you running tams or deans?
lol were troubleshoting a good thing
the lug
lol were troubleshoting a good thing
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
this is what Im runnin:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJ21&P=ML
and this motor:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZN3&P=7
and this pack:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJH3&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJ21&P=ML
and this motor:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJZN3&P=7
and this pack:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTJH3&P=ML
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
okay are u useing the stock white connectors from the battery cuz they suck and eat amps and kill runtimes, or do u use these for your batts?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKX39&P=ML
the lug
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKX39&P=ML
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
How hard is it to put the plugs on the wires? I've never sodered anything so I'd have to figure it out. Sounds like Wayyyy better performance if you use them
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
it is, i mean as a basher you probally won't notice, but i did, it feels like i get more punch and longer run times,
soldering's not that hard, you just gotta be smart about doing, it and i geuss i'm now gunna write a soldering how to.
okay you'll want a somewhat decent iron at least 30w i'ld get a 60w some solder, flux, a C-clamp or somthing to hold stuff still, cleaning alcohal, and pliers,
you'll want to get plenty stuff to do at once, so get all you're batts, charge leads, and ESC's get the rite # of plugs for each female for batts male's for esc's and charge leads,
when doing batts, cut and solder ONE wire at a time or else when you cut the wires you'll short the pack[:@]
okay you'll want to clean all the surfaces that'll be contanting, the solder so wire, and plugs.
okay you want to plan to give you soldering pen/gun like 3-5 min to heat up, so plug it in during prep and you'll have to geuss the time
once you get everything cleaned put a good amount of flux on all soldering surfaces not like huge mounds but a good coating,
mount your plug in the "third hand" and then touch you're now hot soldering thingy to the fluxed part, it sould go liquid and kinda bubley if you use too much it may spatter and it hurts... once that's done you wanna get some solder on your pen just take you're roll strech out 6-8 in and get it to sit on the table
touch the pen to the solder and get a decent amount but not a ton cuz it can fall off and its hot and burns stuff, once you get it on the pen touch it to one of the tabs or wire you're soldering, it should flow pretty easily, to the next suface and from a nice layer you don't want a mound just a even layer, then you do that with the other thing as well,
when you got to make the finail bond get a bit more solder on your pen and press the wire onto the plug, and then they should melt, warning! the wire will get hot even 6 in down so if its not coming together easy apply more flux and get some pliers to hold the wire closer to the joint, that helps a lot
and that's really it the extra set of hands really help cuz you're not holding the plug thats dripping really hot stuff. i think that makes sense so yeah tell me if i sound crazy
the lug
soldering's not that hard, you just gotta be smart about doing, it and i geuss i'm now gunna write a soldering how to.
okay you'll want a somewhat decent iron at least 30w i'ld get a 60w some solder, flux, a C-clamp or somthing to hold stuff still, cleaning alcohal, and pliers,
you'll want to get plenty stuff to do at once, so get all you're batts, charge leads, and ESC's get the rite # of plugs for each female for batts male's for esc's and charge leads,
when doing batts, cut and solder ONE wire at a time or else when you cut the wires you'll short the pack[:@]
okay you'll want to clean all the surfaces that'll be contanting, the solder so wire, and plugs.
okay you want to plan to give you soldering pen/gun like 3-5 min to heat up, so plug it in during prep and you'll have to geuss the time
once you get everything cleaned put a good amount of flux on all soldering surfaces not like huge mounds but a good coating,
mount your plug in the "third hand" and then touch you're now hot soldering thingy to the fluxed part, it sould go liquid and kinda bubley if you use too much it may spatter and it hurts... once that's done you wanna get some solder on your pen just take you're roll strech out 6-8 in and get it to sit on the table
touch the pen to the solder and get a decent amount but not a ton cuz it can fall off and its hot and burns stuff, once you get it on the pen touch it to one of the tabs or wire you're soldering, it should flow pretty easily, to the next suface and from a nice layer you don't want a mound just a even layer, then you do that with the other thing as well,
when you got to make the finail bond get a bit more solder on your pen and press the wire onto the plug, and then they should melt, warning! the wire will get hot even 6 in down so if its not coming together easy apply more flux and get some pliers to hold the wire closer to the joint, that helps a lot
and that's really it the extra set of hands really help cuz you're not holding the plug thats dripping really hot stuff. i think that makes sense so yeah tell me if i sound crazy
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
dear lord lug that was long enough...lol jk
I know how to solder working with computers and RCs,your right its not hard at all...
I know how to solder working with computers and RCs,your right its not hard at all...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
but it can be a pain, a wee bit o advice if your ecs has like a 2 in lead do your self a favor and take it off your chassie, its a pain in the ***** solding with it haning in mid air...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I've done it before. It wasn't fun..
I'm a little confused on your way.
My dad works with the aircraft electronics, so he rarely solders, but when he does, he is required to have a good joint. A bad joint can cause a lot of bad things that we don't want.
I've probably learned how to solder since I was around 9ish... My dad started teaching me how to swim at age 2.. He pushed me into the pool, and made me come after him. I had to do it myself. If I stopped, I'd drown. If I caught him, it was game over, and time for my nappy.
It's very unorthodox, but his ways are quite good really.
I'm now a "okay" solderER kid. Most of my friends are like, what the heck is soldering? Let alone know what flux is -.-
Nonetheless, very good short tutorial luggy.
I'm a little confused on your way.
My dad works with the aircraft electronics, so he rarely solders, but when he does, he is required to have a good joint. A bad joint can cause a lot of bad things that we don't want.
I've probably learned how to solder since I was around 9ish... My dad started teaching me how to swim at age 2.. He pushed me into the pool, and made me come after him. I had to do it myself. If I stopped, I'd drown. If I caught him, it was game over, and time for my nappy.
It's very unorthodox, but his ways are quite good really.
I'm now a "okay" solderER kid. Most of my friends are like, what the heck is soldering? Let alone know what flux is -.-
Nonetheless, very good short tutorial luggy.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: The Hybrid
woo hoo 12001th post!!! lol
Yeah I run the stock ESC DTX Sprint...and an Associated Wolfpack 3000 BP...
woo hoo 12001th post!!! lol
Yeah I run the stock ESC DTX Sprint...and an Associated Wolfpack 3000 BP...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: cheech4
yup!!! and i think i posted about 6000 of them at least, lol
ORIGINAL: The Hybrid
woo hoo 12001th post!!! lol
Yeah I run the stock ESC DTX Sprint...and an Associated Wolfpack 3000 BP...
woo hoo 12001th post!!! lol
Yeah I run the stock ESC DTX Sprint...and an Associated Wolfpack 3000 BP...