motor upgrade
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motor upgrade
hey guys, i own a stock evader right now and i am running a monster horspower stock w/ the stock sprint esc. IN the next couple of months i might opt to get a more powerful motor and esc. I have seen lehner packages at fine design for around 230, and the novak system, but for all these, i risk stripping hte transmission. My question is, how fast of a motor can my stock car handle without any tranny upgrades, (i know i will need an aftermarket esc)???
thanks,
skate
thanks,
skate
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RE: motor upgrade
depends on how you drive, and how you adjust the slipper clutch as well. as a generic estimate, anything more than 150watts [12x brushed] could cause transmission problems with your evader if the slipper isn`t significantly loose.
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RE: motor upgrade
well, i am thinking about picking up either a lehner 4200 or 5300 paired with a warrior esc. HAve any of u guys tried this set-up in an
evader. 4200 or 5300? they are same price but which one? also wat mods should be done to the tranny so it can handle this power, and what batts would run on this set-up? i know these are alot of questions but i am not terribly experinced in electric, and i just want some input from u guys?
could someone also send me a link to a tutorial on how to take apart my tranny, and make it stronger?
thanks
evader. 4200 or 5300? they are same price but which one? also wat mods should be done to the tranny so it can handle this power, and what batts would run on this set-up? i know these are alot of questions but i am not terribly experinced in electric, and i just want some input from u guys?
could someone also send me a link to a tutorial on how to take apart my tranny, and make it stronger?
thanks
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RE: motor upgrade
you will need the alloy idler gear 100%. a good investment would be the metal diff gear for the b2 but it is could be tricky to find this.
the 5300 will be faster. anything less than gp3300 will not allow a BL setup to provide 100% of its performance. i would recommend ib3800s. to dissmantle the transmission and re-assemble it is a relatively easy task. as long as you take your time to do it for the first time, you will not need any special tutorial.
the 5300 will be faster. anything less than gp3300 will not allow a BL setup to provide 100% of its performance. i would recommend ib3800s. to dissmantle the transmission and re-assemble it is a relatively easy task. as long as you take your time to do it for the first time, you will not need any special tutorial.
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RE: motor upgrade
one more question, i have heard people complain about cogging with the lehner, does this mean i should run a receiver pack even tough warrior has bec? also what exactly is cogging, i really want good torque, so if cogging prevents torque could someone alert me of this.
thanks
thanks
#7
RE: motor upgrade
The cogging could be quality of batteries - battery wires - connection or many other things. So do not go by what others say or claim like that.
I use a warrior 9918 ESC with many different Lehner and Hacker motors and have zero cogging.
I use a warrior 9918 ESC with many different Lehner and Hacker motors and have zero cogging.
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RE: motor upgrade
ORIGINAL: studysession
The cogging could be quality of batteries - battery wires - connection or many other things. So do not go by what others say or claim like that.
I use a warrior 9918 ESC with many different Lehner and Hacker motors and have zero cogging.
The cogging could be quality of batteries - battery wires - connection or many other things. So do not go by what others say or claim like that.
I use a warrior 9918 ESC with many different Lehner and Hacker motors and have zero cogging.
The "cogging" is some thing all brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
#9
RE: motor upgrade
ORIGINAL: raz54
The "cogging" is some thing all brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
The "cogging" is some thing all brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
The "cogging" is some thing all SENSORLESS brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
Sensored brushless motors don't have this problem.
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RE: motor upgrade
[
Correction:
The "cogging" is some thing all SENSORLESS brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
Sensored brushless motors don't have this problem.
[/quote]
Yep, you're right. I didn't think about those cause it seems most people go for the sensorless.
skate5290 You will be more than able to pop wheelies with the right motor. I pop wheelies with my photon speed so I KNOW a bl motor will do it. You'll probably need to make wheelie bars for it (lol).
Correction:
The "cogging" is some thing all SENSORLESS brush less motors do at very low rpms. Once you get the rpms up just a little it stops and runs smooth.
Sensored brushless motors don't have this problem.
[/quote]
Yep, you're right. I didn't think about those cause it seems most people go for the sensorless.
skate5290 You will be more than able to pop wheelies with the right motor. I pop wheelies with my photon speed so I KNOW a bl motor will do it. You'll probably need to make wheelie bars for it (lol).
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RE: motor upgrade
the flat would be too long, lol, could someone post a few pics of their evader w/ a 7 celll pacck, so i can see, how it set in place?
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RE: motor upgrade
I own an evader, it's not too long. You have to remove the foam to make the flat fit. It is impossible to put a seven cell hump with the stock strap. You MUST you velcro for a hump pack.
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RE: motor upgrade
ORIGINAL: skate5290
the flat would be too long, lol, could someone post a few pics of their evader w/ a 7 celll pacck, so i can see, how it set in place?
the flat would be too long, lol, could someone post a few pics of their evader w/ a 7 celll pacck, so i can see, how it set in place?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCLL9&P=0
As you can see, 6 of the 7 cells are coupled together, with a single cell perpendicular at the end.