skate5290

i am just curious, but i am considering converting over to deans. is it possible to change the connector on my current battery? i dont want to get electricuited when i cut the tamiya connector off... can someone tell me how to avoid this electruicution b/c even when batts are drained they still have a charge (i dont have a discharger)

michelob78

It's only ~7.2V, you just don't want the wires to touch each other. When changing to deans read the back of the package, and do one wire at a time. You will not get a shock from touching the bare wire .

Haulin Azz

cut and solder 1 wire at a time on the batt and make a very strong solder joint

SpaceKow

You wont get electricuted. Worst case scenario, you'll make a couple sparks. You wont even be able to feel 7.2volts (unless you stick it on your tongue).

To avoid sparks, cut each lead individually. Dont just cut them both at the same time. After they're cut, dont let them touch.

crUshed420

here's some good reading for changing from tamiya to deans:

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lan...eans-plugs.asp

http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lan...-procedure.asp

Evader 53

I use a 20piece pack on deans from ebay member [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/Deans-Style-T-Plug-Connectors-10-pack-20pc_W0QQitemZ6034548101QQcategoryZ34056QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem]world hobby[/link], I have had nothing but great expirience with him and my shipment took only 5 days to get here to Pennsylvania from Hong Kong.

raz54

The only time you have to worry about the wires touching is with lipos, they can explode but nicads and NiMh packs will be fine.

skate5290

alright thanks for hte reassurance guys, i will buy one of those pigtails ina a few days.

thanks

gunnut

be careful with the heat shrink. I just got done changing 6 sets of plugs over to deans and the first two I did I messed up that heat shrink stuff. The wire must have gotten hot enough that the stuff shrunk-- to the point where it was real hard to slide over the connection.

I'm really glad I finally switched over to Deans though. It improved my sorta shaky soldering skills too.

skate5290

oh, yeah 1 more question lol, is any kind of special solder necessary for this job?

discgolfer72

just normal rosin core solder

cavfighter

deans rock. just tint the wires and deans with a little solder and then reheat the two together your done. make sure you have a decent iron and that you dont hold it to long or you will shrink the tubing and melt the plastic in the deans connector.

skate5290

alright so just regular solder, soundsd easy. i more thing would u guys buy a pigtail or the connector itself?

discgolfer72

depends if u already have wire and how your soldering skils are its usualy cheaper just to buy the plugs

also if ur bats already are made and have wire u dont reall want to add any wire on to them the longer the wire the more restiance ( boy im glad i had my adv elect classes in auto tech school lol)

cavfighter

just the connector. the batts come with plenty of wire or at least should so you would have to check the lengh and be sure. I can almost bet their is plenty. make sure you get rosin core solder. IMO that is what I use and have had no prob with it sticking. I actually buy mine at radio shack in a roll.

gunnut

Yeah I like doing it like that, It was easy!

Also make sure the tip is clean. I had lots of trouble at first because the gun wasn't getting hot enough. Use a damp sponge to clean off excess crud on the tip and it will work better!

R/C fan-addict

I'm thinking about switching too. It's really gonna improve my soldering skills as I need over 30 plugs! lol. Would there be any advantage from this solder: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJXJ2&P=DC
over radioshack stuff? thanks

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

I used Deans solder when I changed all my plugs and I am very happy with it. While I was at it, I made a pigtail to use on my charger since I didn't want to get rid of the tamiya plug for some reason.

gunnut

I also used deans solder. No complaints here.

Mayday!Mayday!

I also use deans plugs and solder and love them. I know this has been mentioned several times already but, strip and then solder one wire at a time. If you are using nihm/nicd they will short and spark, if only breifly sometimes no harm.
But if you are using lipo's they can and will explode. Just be carefull. BG

R/C fan-addict

well I wanted to use a solder that doesn't have lead in it just cause I have pets and its just something I don't want in my solder. Should I use the novak solder then? or the radioshack? thanks

michelob78

the novak silver solder will have a slightly lower resistance than the 60\40 standard rosin core solder, you gain some added strength as well. The silver solder melts at a higher temp than standard solder just keep that in mind. Honestly if you are not a professional racer you are not gonna notice or care what kind of solder it is. If you go to radio shack and get lead free solder it is the same thing as novak's. Novak is 97% tin 3%silver, radio shack lead free is 96%tin 4%silver for the price just go to radio shack.

[link]http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062722&cp=&pg=3&kw=
solder&parentPage=search[/link]

Nawabi

The "label" says "Deans-Style-T-Plug-Connectors"... Does his meen that they are not W.S. Deans, and that they are not as good as the original???

R/C fan-addict

ok thanks I have some radioshack solder at home so I'll save myself 8 bucks