Always Dreamin

Here is what i have so far for my pede:

Rpm carriers front/rear: LXNY89 front/ LXNY90 rear
Duratrax stainless bearings: lxd125
Rpm chamber links: 81262
Rpm rear Shock tower: 80832
Rpm Lower shock cup: 73155
Antenna cap red: lxjgu9
Traxxas steel drive yokes: lxjg59

The bearings/carriers are a must have. The chamber links i heard were good. the shock tower, just looked stronger then stock. the lower shock cup i thought would look cool in blue, same with the antenna cap. The steel drive yokes I heard are a good thing to have.. let me know.
This will be because I got good grades.. I still have to plan what I want for Christmas. I am looking for durability and efficientcy.

Thanks,
Always Dreamin[8D]

Mekong

FLM parts!!!

in my experience the only RPM parts I like for the pede are the bumper, esc plate and gear cover. I would personally go with a FLM and traxxas aluminum front caster block and bearing carrier, I often bent the pin before I went aluminum.

RPM a arms are worthless, much more flexable than stock. I have never tried the RPM shock tower so I cant say...

Unless you wana mess with the camber why even bother with turnbuckles, for bashing the camber is stock just fine.


Save up for a burshless system!!! , if you dont already have one. Theres no need to really upgrade much on a XL5 pede! If you break it, then upgrade.

Aside from brushless the next best thing is to widen the pede, and IMO the best way is FLM!!! direct bolt on, even makes it a little longer!

kavvika

Skip the RPM parts, VXL carriers will do just fine. Don't get the Duratrax bearings, pick up a set of TBS bearings off ebay. Get the Rustler/Pede pack, which has 8 5x11's (for the wheels) and 8 5x8's(use 4 in the steering bellcranks). The RPM camber links are a waste of money...either keep the stock ones, or upgrade to adjustable links. You don't need the steel drive yokes; way too much money for what they offer. All you need are the stronger, black plastic, VXL yokes. Going somewhat along with the guy above me, you really don't need any FLM parts, except for the caster blocks, possibly. They'll just make your truck heavier. I highly recommend doing the HPI wide conversion, you'll love it. And don't forget the steel idler, if you don't already have one.

Mekong

Personally on my truck I currently have FLM extended arms, FLM caster blocks, and traxxas bearing carriers, swami bar, MM5700, and metal camber links, integy maxx MSR5 shocks on rear. Sure the truck weights alot, but halls but with my 9.6v 4500mah packs. I beat this truck silly so strength is key.

I plan on getting a FLM extended chassis and possibly a new charger to handle custom 12 cell packs and maybe lipo someday.

brushlessboy16

Get the flm tranny case, u wont need to worry about stripping anything ever again

mabe do the wide arm conversion

barefootdan

u hould go all graphite

Always Dreamin

I don't want anything fancy. no flm or graphite for me. i just want durability.

thanks,
always dreamin

Always Dreamin

I know the teambluestar bearings are good, but I want to get them off of tower.

rustlerbasher

youre doing it right... rpm is the way to go. Ive never broken an rpm part in my life. The duratrax bearings worked great on my rusty... I think they are fine. You could look in to getting MIP cvd's, but they arent necessary. looks to me like youre truck should be pretty bullet proof as it is. Maybe you should spend the money on nice batts or w/e.

Always Dreamin

well, thats the thing. i'm trying to make my truck bulletproof before i get lipos.

barefootdan

rpm shock arms?

Always Dreamin

i think that might be a waste of money. i'm not looking for looks or anything. just a durable truck.

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

Most definately not! I have the blue rpm arms on my rustler and they absolutely rock when it comes to durability. Ive already snapped one front stock arms and I've landed numerous times on all the arms even in the middle of winter and nothing bad has even come close to happening to them. Also you might wanna look into the SRT fiberglass tiebar and the RPM casterblocks.

Always Dreamin

yeah i cannot find the graphite one.. i might have to get the fiberglass. hey t.d. what do you think about that origional list? any suggestions?

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

Well the things your really going to "need" are the rpm bearings carriers, duratrax 5x11 bearings (8x), Both F/R RPM shock towers, Jato universals and stubs, RPM castors.

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

You also might want to look into the VXL chamberlinks and turnbuckles. There very beefy.

Always Dreamin

jato universals and stubs? don't know what those are[&o]

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

Jato universals- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMG2&P=Z

Always Dreamin

direct drop in?

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

From what I've heard, yes.

kavvika

The only reason you'd want to upgrade to Jato shafts is if you have a problem stretching the u-joint holes or twisting shafts with a hightorque brushless system. The jato shafts have thicker u-joints. If you were interested in that conversion, you'd jsut pick up the L&R half shaft set, not the one previously linked to. Then pick up a set of VXL output yokes and stubs (it's not confirmed yet if the VXL stubs are more durable and made of a better material than the old stubs) and drill them out to fit the Jato shafts. The Jato output yokes will not work without extensive modification and the Jato stubs use a 5x11 and a 10x15 bearing, so they will not work either.

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

It will happen. Im about to go through my second pair of stock universals and 3rd pair of stubs.

kavvika

By universals, do you mean the slider shafts, or the u-joints? Yes, I agree the Jato shaft conversion is great for durability, but you shouldn't have a problem running a brushed motor. Have you tried the new VXL stubs, and can you confirm that they are more durable than the old stubs? I can't get a straight answer anywhere.

Takedown

My Feedback: (23)

I've broke all the parts on the driveshafts but the output yokes which is weird because I keep hearing there fragile.[sm=50_50.gif] The VXL universals are suppose to be a little better but not by much.

Mekong

I dont get how anyone would have a problem with the stock drive shafts, I haven never broke mine after running years of brushless from 7.2v SS5800 to 9.6v MM5700

IF ITS NOT BROKE DONT FIX IT!!!

#1 get a decent brushless, #2 go wide with FLM, #3 get FLM/traxxas aluminum steering blocks and bearing carriers


RPM has some nice stuff but the arms SUCK, I bet the shock towers are just as flimsy, yeah they wont break, but they are as flexible as a wet sponge!