ptarp

Has anyone seen any difference in cheapo battery packs and more expensive packs given the same # cells and capacity?

Also, should I go with a 7 cell pack?

Regards,
Philip

P.S.
I'm just starting to get into the R/C Car world, after being an avid R/C Flyer for a while.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

yes there is a difference in cheap vs name brand packs. You will notice alot more punch in a pack of sanyos then say compared to a radio shack battery. The only time I would suggest getting 7 cell packs is if you are running an Emaxx, other wise they drain to fast for a regular vehicle. More cells = less run time but more speed.

BTW - welcome to the REAL RC world forget planes! those are boring!!

ptarp

Thanks for the welcome Casey I appreciate the quick response! I don't think I will be giving up flying any time soon though, I have one plane on the board, and two about to take maiden flights tomorrow.

Do computer radios make much of a difference with cars? I have the Airtronics M8 3 channel radio, I'm just curious, as nothing much comes to mind that could be done with the available(throttle/steering) channels. What do people use the 3rd channel for?

Regards,
Philip

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

3rd channel is usually used for reverse on nitro cars, in my case my emaxx has it for the 2 speed tranny in it. A car might have them also if it has a 3spd tranny or such.. The computerized ones do make a huge difference also, specially the PCM(?) recievers because of the quality of the signal. You can also dial in your car much more precise with these. Settings can be saved for more than 1 car also improving there use. So all you would have to do is hit a button, and it changes to a different vehicle, and all you have to do is buy new recievers, which is much cheaper than a set for each car, and easier than removing the reciever and switching it to a different vehicle. What vehicle are you planning on getting? I'm sure I could help you make a good choice there also Maybe you can help me pick out a Indoor electric flyer.

ptarp

Casey, I've thought about the Evader, but from doing some research, I know you would be against that I would like a car that is good out of the box and has room to grow as well. One reason I thought about the evader is because it is available without radio gear(which I have), but still comes completey build/painted and comes with an ESC. I don't want to have to paint anything myself, I know I'll end up gettin mad

What are the differences between buggies and stadium trucks?

Regards,
Philip

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

In my personal opinion, it's alot better to build a car than it is to get it straight from the box, and even though its appealing that the evader comes w/o a radio, its not like its cutting costs... that radio they offer is 100% junk.. its radioshack with futaba name ^_^ I should really be careful what i say, ill probaby get duratrax ppl jumpin my case again.. anyways, The Rustler would be a better choice, you can buy it as a rolling chassis pretty cheap, then buy other parts for it and have lots fo room to 'grow'. the best choice though for the price range and 'room to grow' would be the T3. Great aftermarket availability from many brands. Anyways prepainted bodies are the thing now.. And RTRs come prepainted also as for the difference between buggy and ST, i can't really say other than buggies are lower to the ground (in my experience). ST's seem to take jumps better also.

ptarp

Casey, I was wondering if you could elaborate exactly you dislike the evader. It seems(to a neophite anyway) that the evader has many "hop-ups" that I would end up pouring into any other car anyway that I might buy. Have you seen/driven the Evader BX/ST yourself? I value your opinion as you seem to know what you are talking about, and would like to steal as much info from you as I can

Regards,
Philip

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

Jus because something has hop ups available doesnt make it worthy Everything jus about has hop ups available The evader is based off a now void model. The hop ups may help durability, but if they are 6061 aluminum they will jus bend instead in crashes where the plastic would break. I've have recently driven one at our indoor track, (let a guy drive my emaxx around) and not only is the stock slow, its handling isnt near as good as the guys losi xxxt that he also had. Its the same reason the rustler can't be made race worthy, the chassis design is inferior to the new designs out, plain and simple. I mean if you plan to drive around a dirt lot, with nobody else, alone, slow, and not worry bout racing, then sure get the evader but if you want something that can actually handle upgrades even while the chassis is in stock form, I wouldn't recommend it.

ptarp

Ok, now that makes some sense So, the Associated T3 is a better car then? Will it be a much better choice in the long run? And, even though the Evader has what seems to be more "hop-ups", will the T3 outperform it w/o these, stock? There are a few versions of the T3 on tower. Which were you referring to? Thanks again for all of the info. P.S. Are Tamiya trucks good?

Regards,
Philip

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVC19&P=7

vs...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWL80&P=7

if you look at the goodies, the factory team kit is WAY better than the RTR, but has a heftier price tag and doesnt come rtr. The evader doesnt have more hop ups than the T3 trust me A T3 will most definately be a better choice in the long run, the chassis and style isnt out dated by anymeans, and is still raced competatively. This and the Losi XXXT are the "big wigs" of Stadium Truck racing. If you raced the evader and the T3 on a track, you would definately see the handling differences. Even if the T3 is bone stock and the evader has hopups, jus like the rustler the chassis isnt 'up to par'. As for tamiya, most of there lower priced cars are beginner cars, but very very durable. If you have a young son or so, I'd definately recommend a cheap tamiya buggy. But other than that, until you get to there 300$+ priced vehicles your only really getting a average car. Tamiya's highquality cars IMO are THE BEST but they also throw one of the WORST pricetags on them, they know they are good.

ptarp

Ok, you have me interested in the T3 Factory Team. What motor/esc/pinion gear would you use? From my experience with tower's suggestions on airplane engines, they usually suggest the lowest common denominator(surprisingly). Are the suggested primary accessories good? The Kyosho motor is a 27 turn, isn't that kinda high? Also, what other accessories or hop-ups would you suggest right off the bat?

Also, under the optional accessories, the T3 has WAY less items listed than the Evader. How do you know what hop-ups are available for the T3?

Regards,
Philip

mike_evader2

For electric motors, the more turns, the LESS power. 27 is stock.

27 < 14, for exanple.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

Ok, Jus because tower carries more doesnt mean it has more hop ups by any means Ok assume you got the factory kit, I'd need to know how you would be running it to determine what kind of parts / electronics you would need with the truck A good motor though to go with is either the P94's or the D5's double wound.. Try to get around a 13T.. they are the most commonly found, atleast at my track. The more winds it has the faster it will be but slower take off... So if you have a really tight corner track, go with a 13x1 for lots of PUNCH or UMPH to your take off, if you have a couple long straight aways or more wide turns go with a 13x2 to hold some of that speed. In terms of ESC My personal preference of brand is LRP. The Quantums are jus amazingly small and save lots of room and weight for your truck. Others will tell you to get Novak. I wont debate which is better because both are top quality. Radio, you can't go wrong with an XR3 or M8. the M8 will be more, but also has more features, make sure you get an FM radio if you decide to buy each part seperate and build it. Now for batteries, matched 3000+ are prefered by all, and get NIMH, they last longer and are lighter than nicads. www.stormerhobbies.com has a special for 4 3000 batteries for 100$, they arent matched, but if your just doing local driving it is a GREAT deal. If you would want me to pick out pieces to build a complete, jus ask me and ill do a quickie for ya

ptarp

I already have an M8 radio just waiting for its first use So, you think that the T3 F.T. is the best in its price range?

Wow, it would be great if you could provide the items to complete the T3 F.T.! You are a BIG help! I wish I would have know someone like you when I got into R/C planes. I would have saved big $ in the long run; I'm sure you know what I mean


P.S. What is a "matched" battery?

Regards,
Philip

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

yay i love shoppin for other people anyways matched batteries are 6 cells that show the same stats in all categories, or closest possible to each other that way you get the best performance, so one doesnt discharge boefre the other (generic definition) anywas to the shopping!! Well between the T3 and the MF XXXT its your choice, both are very nice trucks!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVC19&P=7 T3 FT

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBGD7&P=7 LRP Quantum ESC forward / brake (reverse is illegal at tracks)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUM1&P=7 New Novak Gt7 esc

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCUH2&P=7 battery

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...B&showbig=6809 GREAT battery deal

If yoru going to race and money isnt your biggest concern, I recommend getting NIMH matched packs of 3300, if your interested i can post link for those.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAVN1&P=7 nice peak charger

if i forgot something just tell me