Chase023

You said

"Put them both in dirt and then YES the car with slick foams will lose. DUH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "

Your proving my point exactly.

Why bother comparing these cars when they are made for different applications? That is my point.

Why did you even mention anything about nitros to start with when all we were doing was trying to give 9zap some advice??

What drivel am I saying?? I was only proving a point.

By the way your the one mentioning and attacking with words like "Kiddies" wow who is the immature one here!!

9zap

by the way whats the max charge current you can put into the 3000 sanyo cells ? does 2 motors need 2 esc,s?

hpiguy

Chase:

To end this argument, CaseyDDR brought up the nitros when he said that and I quote:

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Originally posted by CaseyDDR
Absolutely not, if you run duel brushless Emaxx, nothing, i mean NOTHING nitro or electric, will be able to pull your truck.
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See the part where he says NOTHING nitro or electric? Well do you? That is where the nitros were brought into this discussion. I went on to tell him that in fact there are numerous vehicles that can beat this Emaxx. If it ever gets built.

Try to read the posts before going off on me.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

it clearly says PULL, and I do post on the Emaxx forum on RCCA so thanks and good bye. For once I can actually say DONT TALK ABOUT WHAT YOU DONT OWN OR KNOW ABOUT ANd just because im 18 doesn't mean I havent been in RC for a long time. I've been in it since i was 6. Thanks though for recognizing my young age.

hpiguy

For 3000s I'd say four or five amps top. 4 amps will gove you a good combination of punch and runtime and battery life overall.

As for the motors, I think for brushless you need a speed controller for each motor. So two motors, and tow speed controls.

If your brother gave this to you, doesn't he know all about it? Where did he get it? How did he run it with a brushless set up?

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

yes for BL you need an ESC for each motor, as for batteries, what do you want, longer run times or more punch?

hpiguy

Casey,

I own an Emaxx.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

Hpiguy, for once you are arguing a fact where you ARE wrong hate to tell ya, but it happens to all of us at one point in time

hpiguy

Wrong about what?

That a non existent Dual Brushless Emaxx may or may not be, according to you, able to out pull EVERY other R/C vehicle made?

You said it will be able out pull EVERY R/C made. I disagreed and stated numerous powerful and fast vehicles that I think can beat it.

Until it's actually made (I'm waiting, as I'd love to see one, I think it would be cool to see) you'll never know.

Technically I think none of us are "wrong" about anything until this fantasy truck is built and tested in the real world.

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

We'll I'm duign this over the summer (its my fun project before college starts) So... Only time can tell I'l have to find me a car that cna beat it.. but the Emaxx will be rather heavy with all this stuff (pounds over a savage or EK4 even) because of all the batteries, and chassis mods that go into it.. Anyways if you want details on what im doing ill fill you in

hpiguy

If you do it, take many pictures along the way and document everythign about it.

Submit this info to all three big R/C magazines and maybe they'll do a project article about it.

Just an idea.

Chase023

9zap here is a rule you could follow.

Nicad batteries Maximum Charge rate = (x2) it's current = 6Amps
NiMH batteries Maximum Charge Rate = (x1) it's current = 3Amps

Remember to condition your new batteries for like 3 cycles at C/10 charge rates first to get the maximum capacity.

C/10 = 1/10 of your current.

By the way you could charge at higher rates but remember this that higher the current you use = lesser battery life span.

Personally I charge my RC car batteries at C rates which is 3amps for the 3000mah battery after the initial conditioning.

I am not sure nor know if you get more punch and longer run time by charging it at higher rates because I thought mostly the charging rates and voltage are already established when they are first made and conditioned by the factory or companies who sells the cells. That is why you see the figures on those single cell batteries with all those numbers. I thought by charging them at the higher rates people do on their chargers, it just fills the capacity up faster.

I am not completely sure, only nominally sure so I would maybe ask some battery experts. If you need more info go look up the Batteries/Chargers forums on this RC Universe. They give great advice without all this clutter. They are friendly and seem helpful. Most of em I see are RC Airplane/RC helicopter users which are very picky about how they charge their batteries and their maintenance.

Chase023

HPIguy well anyhow thanks for the idea. I know you were talking to Casey about that idea but I will probably do that because I was thinking about it whenever I completed my RCMT. Mine won't be an E-Maxx, but a modified Juggernaut 2 with those two C50 Hacker motors I bought a while back.

Let us end the argument as you stated..

9zap

thanks for the info ..my bro was gonna do this project but gave up you see (no timethats why i have a new e-maxx and a new c50 motor and nothing else so all i am doing is finishing off really...

right think ill just stick with 1 motor but what about the tranny? im sure a c50 will rip it to bits from what i been reading?

caseyddr

My Feedback: (13)

you have to regear the pinion and spur, but thats about it for 1 hacker.. if you put 2 then you have to redo the whole driveline.

hpiguy

Yeah for just one brushless motor the stock gears and driveshafts should be fine as long as the slipper is set right.

Any more and you'll want to buy an all metal tranny gear set, and MIP CVDs for all the driveshafts.

I'd recommend the slipper and spur conversion made by RRP for the Emaxx with even one brushless motor. Those stock slipper pegs go bad real fast with powerfull motors. Where as the dual plate slipper set can spin for days without burning up.