malice23

The best thing to do if you must use the kit screws is put a dab of grease at the end of the screw and then screw in. This way the grease will act like a lubricant going into the plastic and you wont strip. The better option though is to use an aftermarket screw set made of steel or titanium hex screws. I would still use the grease method before screwing anything into this kit. I learned the hardway too.

dimblum

Malice,

Truth is, it wasn't quite 2:30am when I replied.. I live in Southern California.. It's kind of cool to be here when you are into RC.. The corporate headquarters for Tamiya, Novak, Losi, Team Associated, etc are all within driving distance.. I have visited Tamiya in the past when they held their TamiyaCon.. It's been a few years since they last held one, but I am hoping they will bring it back.. In the meantime we have a show called RCX which is coming up this weekend.. It covers all RC vehicles from cars, planes, boats, helicopters, etc.. Tamiya will be at the Long Beach Grad Prix next month, so I am hoping I can attend that as well...

If you are jumping that good, then your setup is really spot on I have a weakness with some turns as well.. Even though I know the approach for the turn, I don't always execute the maneuver correctly.. It's hard to concentrate when you are having fun..

Hmm, noise from the stock spur... Do you use the gap trick when you set your spur to pinion mesh? The trick is to run a small piece of paper between the pinion and the spur while you push the gears together. Tighten down the screws for the motor then wind back the gears to remove the paper... This will give you the perfect gear mesh which will keep your spur in top notch condition..

I still have the HT arms on my Durga for the time being.. I'm going to see what it takes for them to break now that I re-tuned my shocks.. I'm ready to go back to the stock arms if necessary, but I figure I would give the HT arms one more try.

Let me know when you unleash your 501X.. I'll be interested to see how it compares to your Durga.

dimblum

Are the screws stripping that go into your motor mount, or just the ones that screw into the plastic??

I agree with what everyone else is saying - greasing the screws goes a long way to keep them from stripping and the stainless steel or titanium screw sets are an excellent replacement for the stock screws..

The DB-01 chassis is made from a carbon/glass plastic that is ultra hard and very good under stress and shock.. The price you pay for great plastic is tough screw holes. The grease will help a lot.

malice23

Oh I thought you lived here on the east coast...silly assumption I guess. Ya I know man you live in the RC capitol of the world. Here in NY theres barely anything RC wise. No tracks or events like that whatsoever. I have to travel about 45 mins to my track and I can only get out there like 2wice a week unfortunately and sometimes I cant at all. It really sux. Im considering moving out there for that very reason lol. Not just for RC but in general there seems to be a lack of anything pertaining to my interests around here lol.

Considering my setup, ya I think its awesome. My jumping is spot on, I wouldnt change a thing. Im running medium springs (yellow tamiya) all around. 40wt up front and 30wt rear, I also bought different pistons to play around with those as well. Rear sway bar Im running soft but I just changed to medium to get that rear around faster on sharp corners. -2 caster front and rear. 2nd hole from inside on front tower, 2nd to last hole on the rear. Arms level front and rear but slightly higher in the front helps with jumps and gives you better flight ability. But they are for the most part arm level. I honestly like the std diff setup the best. Waay better in flight control, and wayy more grip. I havent found a problem with the durgas steering as it can all be fixed with the proper setup so Im not running oneways anymore. Ive asked around and noone does. Most 4wds these days have enough steering you just gotta experiment setup wise. Im still waiting on my toe gauge to get it down even better.

As for my 501x Im trying to get all the stuff together that I need before I put it on the track. Mainly batteries and a receiver. I also need a servo, and other misc items like paint and tires. So far I ordered spare shock towers, (3 front and 1 rear lol) because I heard from some1 at the track they are out of stock everywhere and they break sometimes. so I snatched up all of them from this seller on ebay. Every, single, one lol. Im not playin games Blumster lol. I dont want a track day to end due to shock towers. Ive heard from 2 people that they crack but I dont know how thats possible Ive heard that car is crazy strong.

I changed the spur cuz it really was chewed up. As for mesh, my mesh was fine but it was in another car that I didnt touch and so god only knows how the mesh was set there. Once I changed it all was well. I got my Novak in there and Im ready to roll next time.

What have you heard regarding springs for the 501x? Are most people running the Tamiya springs or the AE springs? Also I dont really like the standarde rear wheel set up on the db01/501x with the losi style wheel pins in the rim. It seems as if you have to tighten the left and right with the same amount of torque or one will spin more than the other and may even get some wheel wobble. Ive purchased some 12mm hex conversions for both cars and Im hoping I can aleviate that problem so the wheels spin truer and so that I can tighten them without worrying about how tight one is over the other. Overall I think its just a better setup and I can just use RB5/ZX5 rear wheels instead.

crusadores

12mm hex conversions, malice23? Yeek! [:-] Maybe use the rear only...

Regarding springs and shocks. Is there an alternative to the TRF shocks? I know that Tamiya stuff blends nicely with Tamiya, but is there an alternative like the Associated brand?
While shopping for car parts i came across these: 54185 DB-01 Dual Block tires . Have you seen these? They come in C and K types and they are supposedly better for carpet.
If i switch to the 501x diff joints or the 3Racing, what other parts do i need to buy? Just the diff plates?

Malice23, isn't 30wt oil to soft? Do you have a setup sheet? Or Dimblum? I will be racing next weekend at the usual indoor (low grip) track and i plan to test the soft swaybars at the rear. As far as i understand they might stop the rear from flying while on power exiting the corners... Right?

Stef.

malice23

Ela stef...Did I say 30wt rear...I actually have it at 35wt rear...The trf dampers are the best trust me no others are gonna work for your car as well as those. Provided you have the right amount of limiters within the shocks as the stock towers are not the right height for those shocks. Im not sure abou the surface youre running on...People say, and I have read that Schumacher Mini Pins are awesome for indoor tracks without dirt. I really am not too keen on these surfaces as I run strictly on hard packed dirt.

I would also install a front one way on that high traction surface. Youll get much more corner speed and exit on that kind of track. I would also lay the shocks down, more inclined, front and rear since you have crazy traction on that surface. Try the kit recommendations for shock positions. You might also have to experiment with shock oils as my combination might not be good for that surface, I think the softer oils are good primarily for dirt/bumpy tracks. For yours I wouldnt be surprised if you had to up all your oils or maybe even use a piston with less holes. For instance one hole piston for front and 2 hole for rear or even one hole rear depending on how you like it. Adjust your wheel base as well via the rear hinge pin spacers. Try the middle or short wheel base for faster turn in. The stock wheel base position is good on bumpy dirt tracks to make it more "predictable" but for a more "onroad" surface I think shortening it may be better. Also experiment with the sway bar combo. I would even try front AND rear sways but I would try the medium thickness. I think on high traction you can get away with stiffer settings all around. Dont forget to take into account the kinds of jumps youll be facing. If the jumps are just ramps that drop off adjust your shocks so that you dont bottom out all the time. If they are jumps that level off on the other end you'll be fine. But def install the front oneway, you'll benefit from it on that track guranteed. I tried it on my dirt track and I liked it alot but on my surface it got a little hairy and if you were not careful, it would spin out.

As for my 12mm hex conversion, Im doing that for the rear wheels primarily, I dont think the stock configuration is of any benefit to how the wheels spin. You overtighten them and they dont spin freely, you tighten them too little and they may fly off...what the heck! [:@] So I ordered a 12mm hex conversion from 3racing and will probably use rb5/zx5 rear wheels since my shop carries those. Im a bit OCD so I need everything to be tight or else Ill be worrying about where or when my wheels will fly off. Screw that man lol.

As for the 3racing diff joints, dude, they are bullet proof. You dont need anything more. They come with the plates and diff halves. I dont know why people even bother running the stock diffs, all those do is melt on to your pullies. Just make sure you are running universal joints front and rear and not the stock dog bones. Im not saying that they will wear them out, if anything the dogbones will wear out the stock diffs within a few weeks IMO, but the UJ's are easier on your drive train...less friction and more efficient power delivery. When you build them just make sure you use a permanent thread locker to secure them together and dont grease them as they will attract dirt and it will bind. Here is a link to a great seller on ebay that will get stuff out to you quick...http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-DB01-Rear...item517ede3307

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-DB01-Fron...item3a41c4ebad

Good luck man!

crusadores

..."Kalo Kooragio", like that Eu guy said, but he was reffering to the whole nation! [&o]

Back to RC: Last fall i decided to buy the shocks and the high traction body with the aluminium Motor Heat Sink. After doing the math i went for the R and sold my DB01. So now i have UJs (thread lock has been in my toolbox since ages!).
The track is cement, very worn cement, slippery like hell and i had trouble cornering, especially with the 5.5t. For the next race i will try a NOVAK HAVOK 8.5t (sensored!). Would soft rear sway bars improve rear handling?

Tonight i will do a shocks rebuild and use 600cst all around with red springs. I will try this on Saturday before the race. What roubles me is that 1 o-ring front and 2 o-rings rear still are not enough to stop the UJ from binding. Do you guys use 2 o-rings front and 3 at the rear?

Unfortunately, the economic crisis will make the 3racing diff joints my last purchase for a few months (or even more?). I even dropped out of nationals and will stay with the indoor cup, that has far less expenses. Tough times (are coming!).

Videos from the Halloween party race
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcFjamZHSVE&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNr2ITSz-EI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcXQv...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2v21IxphOo

Stef

crusadores

Malice23,

Are you sure that the [link=http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3969]DB01-05/HD Alum Diff Joint Heavy Duty for Tamiya DB01[/link] does NOT need these: [link=http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?products_id=14343]Tamiya TRF501X/416 Large Ball Differential Plate[/link] or [link=http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=3077]51287 TRF501X Differential Plate[/link]???

That means that i will apply the diff grease directly on the diff half?

malice23

No all you need is the 3 racing diff halves megale...It comes with the larger plates and the diff halves. Trust me lol. The TRF diffs are naturally come larger than the DB01. So if you had the 501x you wouldnt need the new HD diffs. But the DB01 comes with those ghetto plastic diff halves so IMO you NEED those. Get the 3racing ones on ebay theyre like 12USD each from stellamodels. As for the O-rings do you mean the foam inserts that go into the diffs? The red ones? If so I use 2 on each wheel to keep the UJs in place. And as for you buying the R kit...eh...adika megale ala ti na kanis tora. All you had to do is buy a few hop ups slowly and you wouldve been fine. The carbon reinforced towers suck they snap easily. Especially the rear ones and they may tear off your rear diff covers as well. But now that you have it at least you have the HT chassis which is a plus. Becareful not to roll on that hard surface or you may get a cracked tower.

I too am running the 8.5 ballistic. I havent tested it on the track yet But Im positive its gotta be better than the EZrun garbage I had in before. And as for sway bars just experiment with the thickness. you can change them relaitvely quick so try them all. I know the crisis is bad there and you cant shell out a lot now...My dad lives there and from what he tells me its freakin horrible dude. Dont worry we've faced worse situations in the past but the corruption there has to stop and we gotta get those old school politicians out already before the whole government collapses for good and then its BYE BYE EU. Kouragio indeed my man. Dont worry RC is a good distraction from all this lol.

I would say def. try the Mini pins from Schumacher to stop the sliding on asphault. And if it is slippery you may not want to go so heavy in oil cuz then you will lose grip at some point. I would test 50 frnt and 40 rear and if anything go down from there. Ofcourse this takes patience but when u get it dialed you'll be on point, the car definitely has what it takes. Im gonna check ur videos a bit later since Im at work at the moment. Min stenaxoriese, eimaste edo gia 'sena megale.

dimblum

Crusadores,

Not sure if I can add too much to Malice's response

I'm also strictly an off-road dirt racer (outdoor and indoor). I learned a few things from other indoor racers and from some material I read while I was studying RC racing:

* Sway Bars are a 'good thing' for smooth indoor surfaces. They will improve traction through turns... They are not so good for bumpy off-road tracks, or tracks that have loose soil on top. Sway bars can only do their job well when your tires maintain constant contact with the track.

* The new Tamiya Dual Block tires were primarily designed for off-road surfaces (as far as I know). They use a combination of mini pins and center bar codes which are popular for dirt; but I am not so sure how those treads apply to carpet. Unfortunately I don't know what tires to recommend.. In case you are wondering about the (C) and (K) codes Tamiya gives to their tires; here is the translation:
(C) = 'Competition' tires. They are a softer compound for hard surface tracks.
(K) = 'Kit' tires. They are a medium compound for soft surface tracks (grass, etc)

30w oil is not too soft depending on the track you are running on.. I use 30w oil in my rear shocks right now.. Again, I am tuned for off-road tracks, so I am not so sure what the oil ranges should be for your carpet track..

Hopefully someone is more familiar with carpet racing and can make some suggestions.

dimblum

Crusadores,

I am not sure what your track condition is like, but stiffer springs are the way to go if you are running on smooth concrete/asphalt - especially if there are no small bumps on the track..

If there are small bumps and ruts, then stick with the softer springs.


I use the kit setup for the Universals and have not had any problems with binding etc.. I believe the DB-01R comes with the WO [Wide Operating] Universals which are even better than the standard Universals.. I switched to the WO Universals and have been very pleased.. Where are the Universals binding exactly? Along the UJ joint or the diff joint?

crusadores

Malice23...

Well, almost everything carbon has already broken (rear tower, 3 arms, rear upright) Heh!
All these have been replaced with plastic!
I was reffering to the o-rings (limiters) you have to add inside the shocks. It seems that in front and 2 rear are not enought.
The EZrun systems (60A 8.5T) are faster than the HAVOC system, because the acceleration curve in sensorless style is different. And that is the drawback while racing on slippery tracks. Donuts...
Oils... Well, i could use 600cst front and 400cst rear. Both are available at home...
I sold the Durga for 250euros, which covered the purchase of the R and more...Was a good deal.

Dimblum, the binding is at the diff side, perhaps a second urathane sponge would fix it...
So i will ditch the plates and order the urathane sponges which are already worn.
The red springs seem to be equally nice for loose dirt and the indoor track (no carpet except for a few spots)

Malice23,tin exw bapsei etsi ki alliws giati me blepw na get the sack soon. Apolyomai i mean. If that happens it is bye-bye RC for now... In fact a lot of things are going to change. Far more important things...
Lets hope it won't come to this. I could always pack the family and move to the US (although it seems things are not shiny there too) or to New Zealand...God save the Queen...

Thank you both very much!

malice23

WoW...Stef...Adonis me lene BTW. Tony will do lol. Its not that bad here. You might as well, lol. I dont see any clear skies in Greece for a while my friend. Besides, if you come here, we can go race together ama einai. Either way, elpizo na kratisi h doulia sou. You never know. But you do need an outlet to clear your mind and I find building and racing VERY therapeudic.

As for limiters in the shocks I dont use any because I have the Atomic Carbon shock towers and they allow enough clearance to use the full range of motion for the shocks without limiters. Those are expensive towers but well worth it...THEY WILL NEVER BREAK!.

Ade kali tixi na 'xis. Min stenahoriese ola pernane kai to kathe embodio gia kalo

CrustyNoodle

Well gent's, I've had my DB-01 for probably 12 months and today was my first outing to the local-ish track - wish I could do the couple of times per week that Malice was talking about! The track is outdoor dirt and was quite dusty and hard but broken up - [link=http://www.rccar.com.au/2009_Knox_Cup_.html]here are some pictures from a recent State level event there.[/link]

It was quite an interesting day with my Durga the only one there. The other vehicles were Schumacher and B44 and a few others I think.

I was using PL Holeshots in M3 compound (thanks dimblum) but most others were using Losi X-1000 (I think) in red compound for the rear and Blockheads for the front. The comment someone made was that the PL Holeshots in M3 were too soft for this track and temperatures (it would have been maybe 23*C today - that's about 73.5*F) - any comments?

The other thing I noticed was that the Durga seemed to have noticably less ground clearance (lower ride height and less travel) than the other cars and much softer springing - I'm running TRF blue dot springs F/R and Yeah Racing shocks with 35wt / 30wt F/R. Given that everyone else here is running TRF shocks, it's hard to compare with you guys. Anyhow I had some stiffer shocks that came with the Year Racing shocks that I put on the front and changed the front oil to 45wt and increased both F&R spring preload to increase ground clearance. This actually made things better than with the softer setup which seemed to get thrown around a lot and bounced off the track - any comments?

Lastly, 4 of the other cars I was racing against (only 6 in the class - "stock") were noticably faster than my car down the main strait - I'm running Novak Havoc & 17.5t stock motor (not the balistic) with 77t spur and 23t pinion. I think I'll have start going up a few teeth on the pinion to keep up.

Apart from these observations, the DB-01 took everything in its stride. The only near breakage was when the wing mount pulled off the attaching screws due to one of many tumbles - I'll screw it back in and I'm sure it will be as good as new.

malice23

Well, the ride height is all about track condition. If its really bumpy you can do with raising it a bit but Even then I never go higher than bones level because the handling gets sacrificed. What you're referring to I think is maybe spring rate when you speak of softness. I dont have any experience with the shocks youre running but changing from soft to medium or hard springs will help. But Primarily the low ride height is a plus not a minus. It keeps you lower and you get more corner speed and stability like this. If there are big jumps you just have to learn to jump the car properly and land it properly for all to go well. And thats with all cars, not just the db01. If you land right then it really doesnt matter what ride height you have, the suspension will soak it all up as if nothing ever happened. At some point change those shocks, the TRF shocks are very progressive shocks and youll notice the handling differences almost immediately. I sometimes run my car outside my house to do testing with braking and other various settings to see if Im in the ballpark come track day, and when Im flying down the street, any potholes or bumps, the car just soaks it all up and fixes itself and always stays straight and true, no matter what the speed or terrain.

I was running Truggy yesterday at a nitro track and the track was so bumpy and the surface was so loose that I had the wrong setup and I could tell immediately. I actually lowered the ride height and used softer springs all around to deal with the whoops and the bumps right before the whoops, this track was insane. There were jumps everywhere, So I stood my shocks up more, added my soft springs lowered my height and I was faster right away.

One thing Ive learned is this. Its cool when people try to help you on the track but if they are all running schumacher or b44's they wont ever know a DB01 and its characeristic handling. SO...with that said...do the experimenting yourself and you'll be fine. As for tires, Im not sure which to recommend, DIMBLUM has more experience with that than me, BUT Jconcepts DoubleDee's are amazing on most surfaces, I wouldnt be surprised if they excelled in that environment.

dimblum

CrustyNoodle,

I just got back to check on the latest forum postings.. Malice is right on with his suggestions - the TRF shocks will help quite a bit compared to the Yeah Racing shocks... I have never used the Yeah Racing shocks, but know a couple people that tried them.. Unfortunately they did not say many good things about them; which might explain their less expensive price compared to the TRF shocks.


I ran the math for your gearing.. I am guessing you are using the Team Associated Kimbrough 78T Spur (instead of the 77T spur you mentioned). The Team Associated spurs are the only other compatible spurs I am aware of. Is yours a different brand?

If it is the Team Associated spur, then you might try a 26T-27T pinion.. That would keep you in the 6:1 FDR that Novak recommends for the 17.5T motor on a 4WD. Just curious; are you racing the Novice or Stock class with that motor?


As for your tires.. The outdoor track I run on here in California is sometimes a lot like your track in Australia [dirt is hard like cement with a layer of dust on top]. If your track is softer, please let me know..

You might be loosing traction with the Hole Shots for these reasons: 1 - The pins are too close together making it harder for the tire to penetrate the dust. 2 - The pins are too short for the tire to gain traction through the dust layer.

The soft compound of the tire is usually 'very good' for very hard dirt surfaces.. Medium compound tires are normally only used if the dirt is a little soft.

I have had my eye on a brand new tire by Pro-Line called the "Calibur". It is a step pin tire which is much better for dusty dirt conditions.. Plus, the pin design is more separated which is also good to get through dusty dirt.. This is still a soft compound tire, which should still be ideal.. You may want to try a set of these and see if they help..

The J-Concepts Double Dee's are pretty excellent just as Malice suggested.. They are a mini pin tire, but the pins are a little more pronounced and less packed together when compared to the Hole Shots.. I agree that these should work pretty well for your track..


It's better to stick with a softer oil and spring combination that what you are running if the track condition is very hard dirt.. You may want to test red dot springs for the rear (soft) with yellow dot springs in the front (medium).. Your change in springs and oil may be compensating for the Yeah Racing shocks if there is a problem with their design. Typically your car would not be so bouncy..


Let me know how things go at your track

malice23

http://www.youtube.com/user/AQNY23?feature=mhw4

Theres a link of me doing a few warm up laps at the local track. Made a few mistakes but still learning. As the day went on I had some better laps. Enjoy.

willus

Nice! No one else there? It there wood paneling under the dirt?

I took a look at your other vids. Fun stuff. i stuck a 17t in my original grasshopper and blackfoot and they were like rockets. so much fun.

Will

malice23

Totally dead...I was there from like 12:30 till 6 and like 1 person showed up. Great practice time.

malice23

DIMBLUM...I wanted to ask you... Ive been hearing this weird noise coming from the buggy but I cant describe it...it sounds as if the slipper might be too tight and when I loosen it it dissipates but then its too loose. Ive tightened and loosened my diffs but still the same noise. I think now the only thing it could be is the balls in the diffs. I have the ceramic trf balls but theyve been in there for a while now and have seen abuse from the mamba 7700 and the ezrun 4300 as well as some other combos Ive tried before I went "ballistic" lol. Do you think theyve worn out and need changing? Its the only thing I can think of that may be an issue.

CrustyNoodle

Gent's, many thianks for your replies... I'll respond in order.....

Indeed the track does seem pretty broken up in most sections (only one smooth spot).

I'm sure good landings will come with more practice - at the moment I'd guess 30% of my landings are smooth affairs, the rest are a bit rocky.



At this stage I can't really comment on the quality of the shocks as I don't really have a benchmark to compare against. With the increased stiffness of the front springs and heavier oil the car was definitely handling the bumps better. I think it's a matter of learning to get the best out of what I am currently running before upgrading - that way I will have a benchmark to compare against. The other thing is that at the moment I don't think it is so much the equipment that is holding me back - more the skill of the operator

My apologies, you are correct, it is the 78T spur you mentioned - not some strange thing I just made up.

I'll track down a series of larger pinions to see if I can get the straight line speed up to that of fellow competitors. I did notice that in the tight stuff I had better acceleration than them so the larger pinion should bring this in line as well.

The class I compete in is Stock. They actually call it Rebuildable Stock but basically it is the next class up from 540 (the kit motor class) where 17.5t sensored brushless is the limit. I'm running the Novak gear but there seems to be some other motor/esc brands being bandied about that I haven't heard of.

As you suggested, this track is also hard like cement with dust on top. The base seems to be quite brittle and breaks up during the day to leave sharp edged craters.

I can't really complain about the PL Holeshots in M3. They held up very well with only a small amount of wear evident (the guy at the track suggested that they'd be too soft and would wear out too quickly - his Losi's didn't feel any harder than my PL's so go figure).

Next time I'm in need for tyres I'll take a look at the Calibur but for now I have the PL Holeshots and I have a set of unused Double Dee's (green I think) so I'm guessing it'll be a fair while until I need more.

With the TRF springs, it was more an issue of the car feeling lethargic when you bounced on the front or back. I suspect it might have just been a preload issue so I might go back to the softer springs and just add more preload and see how it responds.


Will do.

Thanks again guy's.

crusadores

Nice... Kinda reminds me of my first race (and the track) last year... I would be very interested in reading comments from
other drivers about your driving style.

My observation comes in the form of a question...
The moment your land are you on power and at what percentage? It seems like you are off power to me.

Personally i try to be at 20-40%(depending of what follows) so i retain some maneuverability/steering and relief the stress on the slipper...

Stef.

malice23

Ya that was literally the 3rd time I went there with the Durga. But I figured out later on that I need more power a tthe end of the jump to slide that rear end out quicker. By the end of the day after all the practice my laps were cleaner with some help ofcourse from some Kyosho guys. Hey its all about fun and in the process you learn the ropes. Im very happy with how the car was behaving though. Only had one breakage and it was a HT rear arm. Those things always break man I hate them lol. So I changed all the arms to the stock ones and then one of my shock ends backed out on me from one of my front arms at which point I changed from middle holes to the outer holes on the front arm. It actually drove better like this believe it or now. Had way more traction. I will try to get some videos up frequently and show you guys how I progress.

dimblum

Malice,

Good stuff!! One of these days I'll have to get video from the tracks I race on.. Best I can do for now is post some links..

Pegasus Hobbies - Track located in Montclair CA: http://www.pegasushobbies.com/resour...otos/index.htm
OCRC - Track located in Huntington Beach CA: http://www.ocrcraceway.com/track.html

I have sometimes changed to the outer shock mount hole on the front shocks as well. I vary it from track-to-track.. It does seem to improve traction and stability a little by making the shock more progressive.. It will also make the shaft move faster, so handling changes a bit.. Bottom line, if it feels good on the track - go with it

The next big thing I want to try is the Novak Kinetic speed control.. I talked to the Novak guys for a bit when I went to the RCX show last week.. They had samples of the Kinetic, but it wasn't for sale
It is supposed to be released next month though, so that's not too bad

malice23

Thanks Blumster...I know I need more practice and Im getting the hang of powering out of my landings now. Thats what Im trying to get down pat. Im trying not to spin out after the jump when a sharp turn comes up. But she really flies man, I love this car. My g/f ordered me a 6.5 Tekin for the 501x...Im afraid it may be too much motor but maybe by then Ill get better and Ill be able to maneuver it.

BTW...I asked you about my diff balls before, Im just wondering if they need changing now cuz I hear a loud "rubbing" noise when I accelerate hard. Its not the spur mesh or anything else, but loosening the slipper alleviates it but then its too lose. I think those balls may be worn lol. Its been a year theyve been in there now.