bhcvc

I finally got my batteries from Team Brood, but unfortunately, I misunderstood what they were. The description said 6-cell "pack", which I assumed meant stick pack. Unfortunately, they're loose cells. I have no equipment or idea how to build a stick pack, so I either have no use for these cells (which sucks) or I need to know how to build a stick pack (or someone local to help).

Anyone located around San Gabriel Valley or near there in socal that could either build the packs for me or help me understand how to biuld them? I've got $165 worth of useless batteries sitting here...damnit. I was really hoping to run my truck this weekend, but that aint happening. Thanks in advance for any help!

RC_Basher20

My Feedback: (4)

maybe return them and buy them pre-made

also ur lhs should be able to do it for a small fee

Frozen72

Build some Side by Side packs. RCU has a tutorial on how to do it. I won't cost that much to get the supplies needed.

kistner

My Feedback: (10)

here is a mini tutorial on how to do it, plus he sells the hammer head soldering tip for direct end to end soldering of the batteries. You do not need a weller soldering iron (I looked around for them but did not find them local). I bought a $6 hobbico 60 watt from tower and the tip fit perfectly. I, however, have not actually tried this yet, I just have the materials ready to go.

http://members.cox.net/charliewhite/

good luck

bhcvc

Thanks guys. I'm hoping someone local can help me build the pack, and preferably a flat stick pack. My E-Savage stock battery tray doesn't fit SxS and I don't have any more funds to buy new battery trays. I've emailed Team Brood to see if I can return them...I hope I can. I wouldn't mind keeping them as they're Ener-G 4600s, but I didn't want to build packs.

I called a few LHSs and none will build a flat stick pack for me. One place will build a SxS, but the cost is $25 per pack...yikes!...that's more than I'm looking to spend on batteries.

SavageX78

Well if you buy everything yourself to do it youll deffinetly spend over 25$ .. but thats still seems a bit high for 1 pack.

Im surprised your hobby shops wernt more helpful. The guy at my LHS would just ask around if he didnt already know sum1 that could help me.

EDIT: Also If you can get them built SxS .

bhcvc

Well, a week gone by now. I''ve emailed, called, and left messages (no one ever answers), and so far, zero response. Needless to say, I''m not very happy with either the product or the post-sales customer support. While I admit the misunderstanding is likely not solely due to Team Brood''s less-than-accurate description (describing loose cells as a "pack"), likely partially being my lack of understanding of all RC terminology, etc. (tho, friends who''ve been in RC much longer than I understood the description the same way as I did, to mean a pre-built battery pack), their customer support/service is severely lacking and disappointing. I can accept the misunderstanding part, but lack of customer support kills the chance for return patronage.
I guess I''ll build the packs myself, but I hate not having them available for the past week (and another couple of weeks to get materials and build the packs) to run the truck.

edit - hmm, didn't put in that smiley...but can't get rid of it either...weird.

nikg

This video is really good. I have built packs based on this. I like that Andy has the cells vertical instead of horizontal because any liquid solder will have less of a tendency to flow off the side by gravity. Keep them as straight up and down as you can.

I did not cut the wrap off mine when I soldered. I just went ahead and tinned the cells, used the hammerhead tip I got from cheapbatterypacks and smooshed them together. Indeed be careful about connecting them too quickly as the solder will splatter. This happened to me and I had to clean out the gaps with an exacto knife as Andy describes.

BTW-I use SXS packs in my E-savage with the stock holders. I can send you and pm if you want to see how. Basically, take some rubber fuel line and slit it. Run it on the metal frame of the e-savage on top, bottom and sides. Mine is just on there loose with the batteries keeping it on, but you could shoe goo it to the frame if you wanted. This prevents and shorting of the batteries on the metal frame. Throw your SXS packs in at an angle like the regular stick packs. They will fit well except for the top part because the wires and possibly battery bars are sticking out. That is when I take a few small bungee cords and go from the bottom of the frame, wrap over the holders and back to the frame on the other side. Sounds complicated and really badly rigged. At first I was really cautious about jumping and flipping etc, but now I just let loose. I've run SXS's for almost a year like this with no problems at all. Bashed the thing really hard, too. No problems. Even installing and removing is easier, you just unhook the bungees instead of dealing with those four clips.

Good luck. If you can do SXS, then get the supplies for that. I have built stick and SXS, and SXS is easier in my opinion. You have better control of the process and can limit the heat applied to the cells.



http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...96501943&hl=en

bhcvc

nikg - thanks for the link and info. If you don't mind, please send me pics and more info on how you fit a SxS in the stock trays. I'll likely be building a SxS. Like you said, it's easier to control solder volume, heat, etc. Plus, I may take advantage of the other advantages in the future, like replacing a dead cell.

nikg

OK I uploaded the pictures. Since these were taken I have added more tubing to the top rails and use 2 bungees instead of just one. Like I said, haven't had a problem. Batteries have never come out, bungees are hooked to chassis on the bottom of the truck.

nikg

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=481

Here's the SXS pack construction tutorial. The individual shrinks are not absolutely necessary. I use plumbers goop which is similar to shoe goo and readily available at Home Depot, Lowes, WalMart.

Additional flux is not necessary either but does provide some insurance. If you are not using flux, be sure to use good quality rosin core solder. Never use acid flux for plumbing. Instead of the x-acto knife you can sand the ends. I use the cutting disc on my dremel and run it over the metal very lightly to get a nice fresh layer of metal exposed. Instead of a big blob of goop in the cell joints, I apply less and do so when I put them in the jig. I put it on the sides of the cells so they smoosh together and adhere that way.

I tin my bars as well as the cells. My jig has no bar holder, so I just press on the bars with a stubby flathead screwdriver. I also use the screwdriver to press on the pigtail wires when soldering to the cells.

It seems like a lot, but after you construct a few packs you get good at it. Oh yeah, never leave the tip on the cells for more than a few seconds. The article says five seconds, but even that is too much. More like two seconds. If your iron is hot and tip is large and clean that is the most it should take.

bhcvc

Thanks nikg! I made the packs, but I had to leave the iron on a bit longer than recommended. I guess my iron's not as hot as those used in the tutorials and my tip not as big. I just finished charging (at a somewhat slow rate...1A, that's the lowest my charger goes) all the packs and they seem to take charge. I hope I didn't close the vents with my soldering. We'll see how it goes this weekend when I put them in for a run. I'll get some rubber tubing or something and do what you did to cover those edges. I have velcro I picked up from Michael's to hold the battery trays shut. Thanks for the all the help!

One last thing, I just want to reiterate how displeased I am with Team Brood, their inaccurate descriptions, and complete lack of service. Sadly, I don't think my voice will matter.