MTboy

Sorry I dont understand what you mean by 9 settings.. Is these setting in the ESC? Stock???

yaleforscale

enough said .lol.. setting 3 it is ..

kahnen

LOL, yeah most likely will strip something in the diff or spur. I run mine on setting 2 (normal) and still can wheelie if I run the slipper to tight.

Thats cool about the track. I run at hobby shop track but the course is pretty technical and small so the owner lets us "run what ya brung" kind of thing, as long as you fit the class(buggy, 4wd, stadium truck, etc.) Also because it helps keep attendance up if the races aren't to limited on what you can race with, it's become a small club and I sure he doesn't want it to loose more people, in these tough times.

GreenRacer

My Feedback: (3)

Yes. It comes with a programming card that has 9 different settings for punch(DRRS start mode). Default is 3. The higher you go the more immediate power it sends through the motor when you stab the throttle.

chevyderek72

Wait could you clarify. So if its a solid numer like 10, then its a 380 technically, But if its say 10.5 then its a real 540?

FieroMan121

My Feedback: (2)

well i ordered my buggy and cant wait to shoot a vid of its first run, its gonna be sweet! its gonna be running the yeah racing 9 turn (same thing as the ez-run system) ill post it up as soon as the buggy comes in

kahnen

You got it.

Frankfka

the thing I like its that its so cheap!!gonna order mine in a few weeks

chevyderek72

Well im torn then, because there is the ezrun system, and then redcats brushless system that doesnt have the fins. So im guessing that the ezrun is a 380 and the redcat is 540. Im guessing there will be a pretty noticeable difference in power then?

scarletboa

My Feedback: (1)

kahnen

I don't believe there a big difference, if any. Here are some vids I found of some of the popular sytems in the about the same setup as I'm running. I don't think you could tell the difference, if the specs wasn't posted.

Mine:9t(4300kv) xxx-t, 2s lipo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsZFzwcqQOE
or in a Tamiya stadium blitzer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfw3LFP-1hM

Others:
xxx-t with sidewinder 4600kv 2s lipo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PagYtGyGAmA

B-4 with 8.5t with 6- 4200 nimh
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXLVtJCZvlQ

Speed-t with 2s lipo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNmp6rGED7I

Joe K

My Feedback: (1)

OK i have a stupid question what is a sensored motor? What dose it sensore?

Ttam Says Blarg

Hmm you think that the esc would fit in the DB-01? I have my doubts but...

chevyderek72

Ya i actually have the volcano right now. But i can get the redcats brushless for 110, and i get it locally (i live 30 minutes from redcat themselves) so i dont pay shipping. I was checkin out places and it does look like it would be much cheaper that 110 shipped. I havent looked that hard, but nitrorcx.com has them for 80-90. Whats the cheapest place that has them?

bhcvc

I have the EZRun 60A ESC with the EZRun 17.5T 2400kV motor. I also have the EZRun 80A and 150A setups, but this thread seems to be about the smaller-sized EZRuns. I had the 60A w/ 17.5T 2400kV motor in my E-Savage which weighs 7lbs without batteries and it moved it fine. Both the motor and ESC were just warm. Top speed wasn't amazing, but that's because of the gearing. I'd estimate the top speed at around 32mph, a bit faster than stock (bone stock E-Sav goes 26mph with stock NiMHs).
Since then I moved the setup to a Kyosho DBX 1/10 buggy/truggy which weighs around 5lbs (with batteries) and it moves it very easily. The ESC stays cool, but the motor is running hot so I think I'm undergearing it quite a bit. Tops out around 32-35mph (estimated), but accelerates pretty well. The 60A ESC is very small. The only things that I found difficult to mount were the external caps and the switch, but if you have zip ties and double-sided tape, that can be figured out. Overall, I really like the EZRun setups. One thing is that I would avoid the 380-sized finned motors. For not much more, you can get the true 540-size motors. Also, FYI for those who don't know but the small Castle motors (the ones that come with the Sidewinder ESC) are also 380-sized internal motors in a 540-size can. They do fine for on-road cars, and even some really light 2WD buggies, but they will heat up more than a 540 pushing the same load around.

yaleforscale

i found retarding the timing with the program card made a big difference i use the 60 amp esc and a 3900kv motor pushing a nitro converted buggy .. it worked great but the motor did get a little hot then retarded the timing this gives more tourqe and a little less rpm default is 15deg ..i set back to zero this gave the most tourge but speed drop was to much so advanced to the next setting this worked great also alterd the punch to level 4 ..no problems since ..

kahnen

Brushless motors are 3 phase motors. Sensored motors have a cable that attaches to a sensored esc, it then can tell, by the sensor, what position the rotor is in. Sensorless basically just starts "firing" off current to the motor. That is one of reasons why sensorless systems tend to cog more when first starting. The esc and motor/rotor is trying to get on the same phase.

lam1na

@ bhcvc

you said you put your ezrun brushless into your dbx (im assuming its been converted to electric)
was it faster when it was nitro.. or as you have it now

thanks

sdp30

Do ezruns have a low votage cut off in the esc?

kahnen

Yep, programmable from none to 3.4v/per cell

Frankfka

somewhere I heard that sensored motors are toast if they touch water

PlaneHeli

Im interested to hear what the 80,120 and 150amp Ezruns are like. What would be required to run a 1/8 buggy. Ive read some are using the 60A, but I would expect 120-150A would be required for the best setup.

Im only guessing but I would expect the 540 finned cans with 380 rotor would be OK for light models, but for heavier cars that require more torque the 'true' 540 can and motor would be better.

Only way to know would be to run one of each in a heavier car to compare.

Anyone have experience with that.

I 5think its a bit misleading putting a 380 rotor in a 540 can and selling it as a 540 motor without specifying it as such IMHO.

Thanks for the info.

Cheers

Access

Basically they are 100% dependent on the sensor, if the sensor goes haywire, the ESC can do some really bad things, which can destroy itself, the motor, battery, etc. Just depends on the firmware and whether they think over the different scenarios, develop and test it for those, and so on. If they make too many assumptions, like that the sensor is always functioning and have no safety or timeouts for applying full power to motor coils, it could basically wipe out the whole electrical system (motor, ESC, battery) due to overcurrent.

bhcvc

lam1na -
honestly I don't know if it was faster nitro. I bought the DBX used and never used the nitro engine (it's for sale if anyone's interested). It's most likely faster as nitro as a nice .18 will make some good power. However, considering my ESC is just warm (barely hits mid-80s) while my motor is hot, I think I may have it geared to high and need to lower the gearing which would help pick up more top speed which might equal the playing field between the nitro and brushless setups.

PlaneHeli -
There's no EZRun 120A. The 120A is an XERun which is their sensored "race" setup. I don't even know who carries those. The EZRuns come in 35A, 60A, 80A, and 150A. The 80A and 150A are HUGE and made for 1/8 scale vehicles. The 380/540-finned motors are fine for 1/10 on-road and even some light 1/10 2WD stadium trucks. However, the true-540 (non-finned, ends in ".5T) motors would run cooler pushing a 1/10 2WD stadium truck around. For a 1/10 4WD truck, the 17.5T 2400kV 540-size motor would work fine, but needs at least 3s (better on 4s) to spin it to the proper rpms. It's a pretty torquey motor considering it's size and that it's a 2-pole.
For a 1/8 buggy, the 80A would work fine. It's the same physical size as the 150A and has some big, high-rated International Rectifier Hexfets in it (those are nice FETs). Most people like to run enough power in their 1/8 buggies and truggies that they can flip it on demand. Honestly, I think that's too much power. Not only will it kill your diffs, you'll have no steering because your front tires never touch the ground. That's not fast around a track! And you have to really control the throttle. My 1/8 truggy has the 150A with EZRun 2350kV SL3674 motor and on 3s, I sometimes lose steering and on 4s, I lose steering pretty easily because my fronts will lift enough that I can't turn. That's plenty of power for me for both bashing and track. Take note that I only run the 150A in my truggy because I wanted to test it out. The 80A (which I have in my E-Savage) will run a 1/8 truggy just fine, so it will run a 1/8 buggy easily (since it's lighter than a truggy). If you want the additional assurance that the 150A offers and don't mind the price, pick that up. But for the price, the 80A is hard to beat and IMO is plenty for a 1/8 buggy or truggy.

yaleforscale

not sure if this has been mentioned , but i just found out you can update the firm ware on the hobby wing esc if you have the programm box shown ,, any body know anthing about this ???? ........[8D] .....[link]http://www.hobbywing.com/english/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=446[/link]