Ok, I'm so sorry I didn't get to you earlier. This is the perfect question for me to answer! I did exactly what you did. I bought the Evader Brushless (BL) differential Gear (The big metal one) and all it's insides. I tried putting it together, but it wouldn't shut all the way. I realized that the ST case won't work, and I needed an Evader EXT/EXT2/BL case. Here is the case you need to get: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB4&P=7 It looks the same, but it's wider. BUT, because the new case is wider, you need the Evader EXT/EXT2/BL rear chassis plate that the case fits into. (The case is also called the gearbox.) There are two rear chassis plates that will work. The Evader BL one is longer so you can attach a wheelie bar (Which prevents it wheeling over and flipping. On the BL rear chassis plate, there are two extra holes for the wheelie bar, as you can see in the picture.) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 and the Evader EXT/EXT2 which is shorter, and just like the one that's on the ST , except it's wider to fit the wider gearbox/case. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA5&P=7 You can not attach the Wheelie bar to this one, unless it's a custom wheelie bar. Here is a link to the wheelie bar that is designed to fit on the back of the Evader BL Rear Chassis Plate: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7 If your running brushless, you'll want the wheelie bar, and to get the wheelie bar, you'll have to get the Evader BL Rear Chassis Plate.

Another thing is, with a new gearbox, you will need smaller bearings, as the ones that go in the ST gearbox are too large for the EXT gearbox. There are a couple of questions I have for you though. Are you running the ST outdrives and CVDs? They are silver and the BL ones are Black. The ST has CVD dog bones, which have a joint in them. They look like this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMF4&P=7 The BL/EXT/EXT2 have these instead: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB3&P=7 If you have the CVDs, then they are ST, and I'm assuming you have them. So because the Evader BL differential outdrives are smaller, your ST CVDs won't fit. You'll need to buy the EXT dog bones (Axles shaped like dog bones) that I linked above, axle springs, and axles. If you already have the axles, springs, and dog bones that are the Evader EXT version, then your all set, but I'm assuming you don't. Here is a list of what you need to buy, with the links. Believe me, I went through this, and I didn't know I'd need all this when I started. It runs awesome now that it's upgraded, but you can't skimp out on any of these items, or it won't work.

Gearbox Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB4&P=7
Diff Joint Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB2&P=7
Diff Joint Spring Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA8&P=7
Rear Axle Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWW3&P=7
10x15mm Ball Bearing-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD144&P=ML
Dogbone Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB3&P=7
BL Rear Chassis Plate-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 or EXT Rear Chassis Plate http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA5&P=7
4mm Locknuts-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCUT&P=7
Wheelie Bar (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
Assembled Differential-You already have one.

If you purchase all that from the site in the links, you should be all set. I recommend making an account with them. :cool: Also, you can use these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWC6&P=7 instead of the dog bone set and the rear axle set. CVs are better, so I would eliminate the dog bone set and axle set, and get the cv set that I just listed. Either way works. I'm using what's on the list, but I'd rather have CVs. I'm sure you'll have questions, so I'll hang around here a little more often.

Oh man didn't think this was gonna be a money pit -___- thanks for the help tho. I'll order the parts soon. I highly doubt my local RC shop stocks all those parts

and if I'm buying all that I might as well go brushless motor wise. What would be the best option performance/money wise. and is there an upgrade (spur? the really big one) and a no slip clutch (whatever its attached to)

It doesn't have to be. We're just giving you all the stuff we've learned about how to upgrade the car all at once! Just pick the upgrades you feel you need at the time. Like getting a gearbox that fits the current gear set, checking/replacing bearings that need it, and just go from there. Then, if you decide you like the car, upgrade a few more things. The Evader can take some abuse, the plastics are pretty darn good. My only beef with the car is when I have to futz with the steering servo. It can be a PITA to get the servo horn (the lever on the servo that actuates the steering) properly centered, as you have to take apart the front of the car to get to it. But providing you buy a GOOD servo, you won't have to replace it anytime soon anyway. Other than that, the car is simple to work on. Don't be intimidated by it.

Fire away with any other questions about the car, we've all been there before and are happy to help out.

I run this motor system in both my Evaders, and an Ofna Hyper 10TT 4wd. http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html GREAT little system, can't beat the price/performance IMO, perfect for the Evader, providing you want RELIABLE speed, performance and longevity for spirited off-road racing/bashing, as long as you're not jumping off 15ft ramps and going for crazy-speed runs. Stock gearing is 20T pinion, 87T spur. (Or is it 88T?) With that gearing, you can hit 40mph with that motor system on 2S Lipo. I found that I needed to gear it down a bit to an 18T or 19T (my current) pinion to satisfy motor temperature. You want to keep your motor under 180F MAX. I like to keep it under 160F, and is where my car runs even on a summer day. And it's plenty fast for my outdoor track. Get an infrared thermometer to monitor motor temps. Duratrax sells one for $24.

Now that's if you want something that will be reliable and low maint. There are other guys here who've put crazy-big motor systems in this car and claim all kinds of "no problem", but if pressed they will admit that they don't drive it long, and with crazy power, it's really not that much fun. 2wd is hard to do with crazy power. Very hard to control. And if you do manage to drive it with any kind of control, sooner or later, something's going to go BLOOEY. Like, the chassis, as soon as you hit something hard. As one guy's sig says "With great speed, come greater repair bills!" That little EZrun system is PERFECT for this car, trust me.

There isn't much room under that gear cover for a much bigger spur gear. Already I've melted a perfectly good spur gear cuz the cover slipped a little and made contact with the spur. Melted the tops off the teeth. 8^/

i don't race or nor do I plan on it. Its just for some fun in parking lots

How one earth do you run 18T on a 87T spur?!? I run 23/87 Sometimes 25/87 and for speed runs, I own a 27T for 27/87. I can't fit a much bigger pinion. Personally, I wouldn't buy that power system, as 60 amps isn't nearly enough for me. I run a BIG 540 size motor, running 200A/320A (Constant/Peak), on 2S. It'll do 50mph with 27/87 gearing. I've got 5" badlands tires on all 4 Black 12 spoke rims. I run my shocks most the way out for bashing, and lower so that the dog bones are level for racing. I have the Evader Brushless body, with many great company decals, and the entire Evader Brushless drivetrain sits in back, propelling the whole thing with ridiculous power, torque, and speed. This all started, as an Evader ST that was stock, that dad picked up off craigslist for $75 because the original owners bought it for their son, the servo stripped on like the second run, it sat around in their attic for a year, and then put it on craigslist with all extras. I fixed the servo, and built it up. That truck was my first car. It taught me how to drive with squirrely ribbed tires, and to this day, is still, my FAVORITE truck that I have. It can out run the neighbor's HPI Savage HP that cost over $2000 with hop ups, both acceleration wise and top speed wise. We race around on the dirt roads that surround this back country in which we live in. (Kinda, the highway is 1/2 mile down the road, but the road is dirt, and there is only about 10 houses on it. That's counting both sides.) I love my Evader ST. This is the Power system I run through it: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXWM5&P=ML I'm sure that's out of your budget. I personally, think this will suite you better, if your power hungry like me and know how to use it without breaking stuff: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...X-Motor-3900kV or http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-8-5t-3...-120a-lcd.html But really, the best your going to find, is going to be the Traxxas Velineon System. If you drive it right on 2S, you won't have any problems. Otherwise, I'd recommend the Hobbywing X5A or the Element. The Hobbywing is probably a little better.

I take it when you stated that some of us here do overkill on motor system? I ran 3S once, was not good, yo! Also, I will admit, that there are some issues, as I shred spurs quite often. I buy them by the packs of 3. I'm looking into doing a metal spur, but not sure yet. I don't really have to think about it too much, as it's not Evader running season over here in Michigan.

Dude: The list of parts you will need on the other post I made is critical. You HAVE to get all the parts (unless labeled optional or one of two things) or it won't work. If you buy the gearbox, then it's not going to fit into the rear chassis plate. It's too wide to fall into the cutout in the chassis plate. Also, your CVs won't plug in. Please tell us what you are planning on getting BEFORE you order it, so we can guarantee that it will work. It really depends on what you want, and what you want to spend.

Did some plowing tonight. Here, let me go get a picture or two....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1946645http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1946646http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1946647http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1946648http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1946649
The third picture is a big pile I made. It's about a foot tall, 4ft wide, and about 3 ft deep. Nice pile I think. I plowed the concrete pad that's under our deck. It only took about 8 minutes. I have like an hour of battery life. I can't wait to do more tomorrow after school!!

Ah yes, I forgot about the rear chassis plate and the gearbox. It CAN be made to fit, you just dremel out the ribs that are in the way. Otherwise, yeah, you would need to get the EXT rear chassis plate with the EXT gearbox, and the appropriate bearings.

"How do I run an 18T pinion on an 87T spur?" Huh?? It's, uh, pretty easy. :confused:

Sure, if you're running a Velineon system you're going to be able to gear up. But those big-ass tires you've got on there are probably why you're stripping spurs. I'm trying to give the guy recommendations for a setup that WILL NOT BREAK anything, and at a price he can afford.

I don't understand your comment about "the CVs won't plug in". What does that have to do with anything? Besides, the Duratrax CV axels are not worth the money.

The Duratrax Element system is made by Castle for DTX. It's essentially a Sidewinder Sv2 system. Nice thing about it is, you can program it with the Castle Link software and dongle ($25), but I read about some people having problems with it when they bought the Brushless Evader. FWIW.

It's kinda weird. The ball end with the pin part of the ST CVs is different. The ball part is too big and won't fit into the EXT outdrives. Go ahead and try it "dude", you'll find they don't fit.

I like my big tires, and the badlands give me insane control and grip. I want to keep them, so that's why I mentioned that I might go to a metal spur. I'm just trying to find the right setup right now.

I've never even thought of or slid a pinion on the shaft lower than 20T. Never. I imagine your getting really good acceleration with that...

Wait.....ST CV shafts? You mean there are TWO, DIFFERENT CV axles for the Evader? Never seen 'em. Not that it matters I guess. Dogbones work just fine.

Yep!

ST CVs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMF4&P=7

EXT CVs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWC6&P=7

EXB CVs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVWC7&P=7

Nitro ST CVs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDSY9&P=7

Nitro BX CVs: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEWN8&P=7

So for Evaders only, that's 5 different CVs. They call the ST CVs "Universal Axles", but yeah, they are Evader ST style CVs that come on the Evader ST stock. The joint is a little different, but they are CVs. The only ones that I can tell you for sure that work on the Evader ST with the BL diff/outdrives, is the Evader EXT CVs and the EXT Dog bones with separate axles and the springs.
If you don't mind the squeaking noise when you compress the shocks on your evader (The squeak comes from the springs), the dog bones are the way to go. Looking back, I wish I had CVs still. I might spend $17 on a pair here soon. It's about the same price anyways. The two rear axles cost $9, the springs cost $2, and the dog bones cost $8. Actually, after typing that, it appears that CVs are cheaper... Either way, it's your decision "dude"...

As I said, when pressed, they will admit that they break stuff, or strip stuff, with those big-assed motor systems. :rolleyes:
If you're willing to put up with the occasional failure of some part due to too much power, well, that's up to you.

You're right about the stub axles + dogbones are about the same price as the CVs. But here's why I don't like the CVs: #1 if you bend the end of the CV axle, you're stuck with a bent axle, unless you replace the whole thing. #2, Even if you can straighten it, it is now weakened and will eventually break. Happened to me several times. With the separate stub axle and dogbone, if you bend an axle, you can replace it for $9. I've never broken nor bent a dogbone.

I guess your right on that part... But I've never bent a CV. I have bent (and it still is bent) one of my dog bones. (That sounds funny...) I don't know, I think it's a personal preference, but for now, I guess he could go with the dog bones and axles, and if he really can't stand the creeks and squeaks, then he could get CVs. Personal opinion, yo!

Or where you do most of your driving and the type of terrain. Not to mention motor choice.;) With that honker you're running, maybe you could twist and axle!

so I plugged in my airsoft 11.1 lipo and this thing is awesome. I also added a washer inside of the stock diff gear so it doesn't slip a lot and it helped. I wanna say it does about 30 but its hard to gauge by eye. I'm sure things will break with the 11.1 but I plan of rebuilding the whole thing when i get paid next

By any chance, could you run it over on what esc and motor your using now with 11.1v? :p I'm thinking the next time you log in here, you'll be posting pictures of the entire drivetrain twisted, cracked, stripped, and detached from the chassis (Not by screws either) , along with the motor that contains black windings (Brushed) or melted solder and a black rotor (Brushless) and the ESC the no longer has a heat sink, as the aluminum melted away! LOL

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1947294LOL your were close, nothing got hot. it's a 15c discharge lipo. nothing serious. But driving 35+ mph into a light pillar at the mall didn't end too well LOL

check out the right shock in the pic too. I modded it to an airsoft parts because I broke that jumping off speed bumps. It twas a fun tho LOL

need a new one of these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAML3&P=7
this would be better tho
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGAT2&P=7

Need a new one of these too since the screws stripped themselves in the crash (unless I can retap them)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFBG8&P=7

fun fun fun

I take it you like blue? :p I normally get the regular http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAME1&P=7 but if blue is your thing... Might I also point out that the blue bulkhead is $1.90 more... Not trying to tell you what color to get or nothing, I just want to make sure that you are aware of the pricing. I personally prefer, that if someone is going to do the color blue of any part, that all the other option parts or parts available in blue, should be used. Not just one thing. I think it looks better, but, anyway that's how I see it. Not trying to discourage you from getting blue, I just want to make sure you have an idea what it will look like. But I guess another point would be that if your goal is to end up with all option parts blue, then you have to start building blue sometime.

Looking back there, I just typed an entire paragraph about nothing... A color's a color. Don't let me go telling you what to get...

Huh? What's that about? Were your diff gears inside the diff slipping? Making that grinding noise? If so, they may be worn out. The gears in the diff should be nice and triangular or pyramid-shaped. If they look like turbo compressors, they're worn out. Just replace them. Next time you rebuild it, use some TrakPower waterproof gear grease. Comes in a little tub for about $4. That stuff doesn't break down like some other greases. Really helps protect those little gears.

its the stock diff (the one with the 12 ball bearings inside), not the one with 4 itty bitty gears in it.

he has an st, which has a ball diff.

D'oh! My bad, yes, you're talking about the ST, and someone swapped in the ball diff option.

I do have the one you're talking about to install once I get the brushless tranny case