Ian78

Have got a 1/10 touring car with a 5.5t brushless setup and can't find any tyres that can offer enough grip.
Have locked the rear diff but still can't get the power down.
Anyone know of some real grippy tyres?
Don't want some that wear out in 5mins realy either.
Thanks.

dragnse7en

Where are you running your car? Are you using a tire traction compound?

Ian78

Just running it on a big tarmac carpark and nope not using a tyre traction compound.

dragnse7en

If I were you, I'd check my suspension setup again, and back it up against other successful guys with an 80mph or higher speed record. I use pro compound belted radials, and I have seen others using pre-mounted foams wth better success than me.

Go back to the basics of rear-wheel traction suspension and shock setups, and then tune your front end to compliment it, either with high on-power steering or just tight donuts when you turn the wheel. Also - very important - you have to make sure that the car itself is balanced right with counterweights as necessary.

Gotta hate to say it, but you said you put a 5.5T BL in a 4WD TC. What did you expect? Any high-end TC is not designed to take the power from a motor like that - you must modify and adjust accordingly.

The HPI pro compund belted radial X pattern tires work great for me, considering i am throwing those dubs way past their specs with Paragon FXII traction compound.

I use a rear shock/ damper setup with them mounted outward as far as possible, and about 5-10 degrees from straight up-and-down mounted. Hard springs in the rear.

For the front, I use a 40-45 degree angle on the shocks, with the bottom mounting hole as far as I can on the outside of the front suspension arm. Whatever springs you use, employ something 3-4 lighter for a spring rate vs the rear. Ackerman settings to 0, and toe in is either zero or negative 0.5 or 1 degree.

Pop up the ride height 2-3mm above a pro class carpet TC that they race on the track, and go from there.

So, the bottom line is that you'll probably never find a tire/ wheel combo that will "hook up the traction" like you want. Not with that motor - SERIOUS trigger throttle discipline sounds like the very first start to me.

Also, I'd love to know how original your kit is out of the box since you've used this motor, and how many parts you've had to replace?

My TC5FT with HPI X pattern belted radials - without the traction compound:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bt60SxXK9CE

Car-Tune

The HPI belted patern tires are really great, work better than foams for me on bashing

Ian78

Thanks for the advice there dragnes7en, good video too.

I did see a fair few videos of cars with the same brushless combo and they seemed to get traction pretty well.

Locking the rear diff has made a big improvement.
I am not serious into racing or anything, it's a bit of fun over the carpark.

You are right though, there will be things that will break due to the power and need making stronger.
The car isn't designed for such a powerful motor, first things that we expect to break will be the driveshafts, it's all good fun though, always seem to buy things and mess about with them, if it just started and ran there would be no fun

Have fitted tougher springs already because the ones that came with the car were so saggy and the car was about 4mm from the floor, totally unpractical unless you run it on a completely flat track etc.

We set the camber up afterwards so it's bang on and wearing tyres evenly, There are also 2 holes each side for the shocks to alter the angle if needed as you mentioned the angle of the shocks.

Remember it's just for zooming around a carpark.
The standard car is pretty well made to start with, it's made by HSP.
Was considering locking the front diff too?

Car-Boy- thanks, will look those up.
There is a track about 40miles away and have been to watch a few times, they could probably help with set up but not beenthere for well over a year now.

BangkokBulldog

Which car are you running?

On a 1/10 touring car the front diff should be locked (spool) and the rear be either a ball diff or a smooth gear diff. You will find that a properly set up rear diff will help combat oversteer on any surface.

In my experience the best tyres for on road 1/10 touring cars are either RIDE or Sweep, I am running on a an asphalt track in Thailand though so temp is high.

Regarding shock positions, if you are getting oversteer ( The rear of the car is trying to overtake the front )...move the rear shock position so the shocks are 'laying down' more. If you are getting understeer/push ( Car doesnt seem to want to turn ), move the front shock position so the shocks are 'laying down' more.

Camber should be 1 degree front and 1.5-2 degree rear.

The above settings are for a 1/10 HB Cyclone TC running an 8.5t + Lipo on asphalt track, but the same rules apply.

Good luck mate and have fun!

Ian78

Thanks for the info and will look up those tyres.
Will look into camber settings and play with the shock settings a bit.
Have played with the punch mode settings a bit and getting the hang of getting the power down without going around in circles.

First time it's been properly used since fitting the brushless, had a few packs charged and was monitoring heat from motor and speed controller and all seems fine, set up the overheat protection too.

Took the front diff apart to grease it properly but decided against locking the front diff as well as the rear so there is some fail safe in the transmission.

As for the car I will put some pics on it's not expensive and it's a bit of an under dog realy, it's good fun starting with something like that and then modify it.

Ian78

Car-Tune

Bagkokbulldog

Laying the shocks more will Lower my car more. What oil and springs do you recommend for front and rear?

theibault

Do you have a rally body that goes with those rally blocs? Would love to see a pic if you do. PS, you will have TONS more grip with most standard touring rubber over those rally blocs. PPS, might want to switch the positions of the ESC and reciever. You may see less glitching if you are experiencing any, if not, never mind.

Ian78

Doesn't seem to be any probs with the reciever and esc.

I bought a few sets of rally blocks ages and ages ago, did have the Tamiya Escort Cosworth shell as well but sold it to a mate.

Have tried various softer tyres, any advice is good advice

Casper06

For bashing the HPI belted X pattern tires are my favorite. I also use this stuff called Sticky Kicks the red one called Roja.

http://www.sticky-kicks.com/about.html

Car-Tune

Never heard of it, but wouldnt it attract more dust?

Sounds nice

Casper06

You have to run the car for a little and heat the wheels up. It doesn't make it sticky in the actual sense it makes the rubber softer for better grip.

Car-Tune

If the ruber gets softer then that is a faster wear on your tires, vid says different.

Casper06

I don't know mine haven't worn out excessively so I can agree with the video. You should email them and find out what the chemical reaction is exactly.

Ian78

Got some various different tyres to try and going to try to get some of that tyre grip in the UK.

New problem is that the battery packs are now overheating in use....should have got a 12turn motor I think.

Haddi Taha

get lipos, they don't even heatup after a 30 minute run on my 8.5t ezrunwith timing on 26 deg and high gearing. The runtimes are much longer too, a 5000mah 40c capable of pulling 200 amps weighs under 400 gram on average. That battery you have there can only pull 33 amps comfortably otherwise expect crazy heat and small life and runtime.

Hobbywing is best place, they have a european warehouse(based in germany i think).

Ian78

Thanks for the advice there Haddi.

Seriously thinking about locking the front diff too now.

Thing is I know this will put a lot more strain on the whole transmission system and may break driveshafts or the propshaft...

Or shall I lock both diffs?

Ian78

Both diffs locked, been hammering it and nothing has broke yet.
Got a selection of tyres as a job lot and experimenting with tyres.