rc18junky

i put the receiver in the front because for some reason having all the electronics clustered together i was getting interference when the car was 30 feet away, well maybe a stale pack would help out.


or you can get two 2100 30c 11.1v 1/18 scale lipo and run them in series so it would be 4200 being a good bit smaller you could put the in smaller places like one on the other of the servo and one where you have the lipo now

im having just the opposite problem with this 1/8 scale i have to much room it was cheap to only 189.00 for the rolling kit

Andyjk

Those batteries might just be an option. But not for now. I'm trying to keep costs to a minimum and just get the thing running. lol

Thanks for your help!

rc18junky

well good luck and put some vids up when you get it running that thing should haul ass

Andyjk

OK so the pinion arrived and its all together. Was really hard to get the motor mount mounted correctly. It does work and will drive but I think the gear mesh is a bit tight. When I go off the throttle the wheels stop spinning almost instantly. It may also be the drag brake setting on the ESC (I haven't programmed it yet, the instructions are really vague).

Here' some pics, will upload a vid shortly!

Andyjk

Ok, here's the vid. This thing sounds mental. It's not perfect yet but at least it works!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FebiHNG_ZVc

somerenegade

Nice!

Andyjk

So I fixed the meshing of the gears and took it for its first run.

It's raining out today so I had to give it a go in my garage. This thing is going to fly. Also, some good news, it does work in reverse, only slightly, but it does. The old one-way bearing must be clogging up in its old age lol, so it's worked to my advantage. I also tried some drift tyres and it seems to be balanced not too bad. Anyway, here's a nice vid for you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gL4k_uyzlYU

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

Cool. I thought that one was the one i got today because of the Reciver. We have the same... O_O

Andyjk

Waaaaa?

Andyjk

A little update.

I stopped using this because I kept on breaking the dogbones. I had this problem when it was nitro also. It was mainly the dogbone that went from the centre gears to the rear diff and the dogbones between the rear diff and the wheels. So I got a steel rod and made my own shafts. I cant see these breaking ever. Hopefully. Anyway, here are some pics.

prestonlal

Hey those look beefy....[>:] can't understand why you are breaking your dog bones, even when it was nitro! If you remove the rear center driveshaft (dog bone) do the rear wheels spin freely and in opposite directions? Almost sounds like your rear diff is too tight...[X(]

Andyjk

I've seriosuly been though 30 of them. I know it's something to do with the rear diff but I just cant figure out what it is. It seems to be tight and no, it doesn't spin freely when I remove the center shaft. Is there a way of loosening it? If I hold the car up so that the wheels can spin freely when I accelerate, the rear right wheel doesn't spin, yet the other three do. It's only when I give it full throttle that it spins.

prestonlal

Yeah there is... You have to take the diff housing apart till you get to the actual differential. Then once you have the differential out of the housing, you just need to loosen the 4 screws holding the cover to the diff case. When I get home in a couple of hours I'll post some pics of what I mean....

Andyjk

Oh awesome thanks heaps mate!

prestonlal

Okay..here's the thing...once i thought about it some more...you will need to get into the diff... because hopefully its just too tight, however, if you have a damaged gear in the diff the debris (broken pieces) could also be causing the diff to lock up....
once you have the complete diff off the car there is just one screw that holds the case together, remove this screw and the back half of the diff case can be pulled off revealing the diff assembly.
you can then loosen the 4 screws in the diff cover a bit to see if that will loosen up the tightness of the gears so that the outdrives ( the silver bits where the dogbones sit) spin easily. you should be able to turn these with your fingers...
NOTE: if loosening the screws work, make sure that the heads of the screws do not project out of the recessed area, as this will cause the diff to bind on the inside of the diff case.

if this works , make sure that the turning action feels relatively smooth and not gritty, as this will be an indication of damage gears.

in any event if you get this far it will be a good idea to open the diff anyway and inspect it. also a good opportunity to put in fresh grease.

prestonlal

The diagram above is for the hpi super nitro rally, so the part numbers may be different, I just included it as a guide for the diff as they are all basically the same.

Incidently, I use the RS4 3 Evo+ diffs in my brushless super rally, as they are hardened and also have a higher gear ratio...

Andyjk

Awesome, thank you so much, you have been more than helpful! I'll give it a go and get back to you. Thanks once again!

Andyjk

So I took it apart and loosened the screws on the diff cover and it has seemed to help a bit. The front diff seemed a little tight too so I took it apart and noticed that there was a spring on the inside of the diff. I guess it is to make it like a semi-locked diff or something. But it was restriciting its movement so I took it out. Seems to move much better now. All the gears were fine so I guess I'll give it a drive and see how it goes.

Thanks once again for your help.

prestonlal

Hey cool! the spring makes it limited slip...i think that means that if one wheel looses tractions the other one doesnt unload. In an open diff lets say one wheel come off the ground, all the drive power goes to that wheel so it spins while its off the ground. the other wheel will not turn. with a limited slip the wheel thats still on the ground still gets some drive....

rybredd

hello, im kind of looking into this myself.......the guys on rccrawler say ckrc sells a conversion to swap a nitro mt2 to brushless, and it drops right into an rs4.....any1 tried this? and do you think it would be competitive with the alum chassis and extra bracing nitros have vs. electric?

Andyjk

I haven't heard of that conversion kit before. I dint think it could ever e competitive as it is so heavy. Mine is probably just as heavy as when it was nitro because of the massive esc battery and motor I'm using.

SyCo_VeNoM

I dunno I doubt it would drop into a nitro RS4
I made my own MT2 conversion kit from aluminum based on the one you mention, and tried slapping it on my RS4 chassis. I found the plates to be too long, and had issues with the battery fitting cause the RS4 chassis is a bit shorter than the mt2's. But that is based on the one I made I seen the actual MT2 one and IMO it would have the same issue based on what I saw.

also agree with Andyjk the conversion would be quite a bit heavier than a pure electric RC. My electric RS4 rally without any electronics weighs about the same as my TT01e with electronics.

Andyjk

Latest vid:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZc55dpb9ak[/youtube]

Biggylil45

Hey guys I am new here and i got some questions if anyone can help me. So I got a hpi rs4 thats all I know about it really my local hobby shop told me the motor was pretty much done. So I started to rip it down and want to convert it to electric. I have pretty much have what i need to get it together but i kept the middle transmission mount and flipped it to the other side now my question is for the transmission i took out the smaller spur gear and kept the bigger one but like i see with anyone else who has done this the gear only goes one way is there any way to get it to go forward and reverse or do i need to go get a new shaft, spur gear and what am I looking for i am lost on this to continue it.