pomachantus

Is it possible compare Klotz bc-175 oil with castor oil?
In other words can I substitute castor oil with bc-175
with same protection of castor oil

oldtimer2

My Feedback: (19)

Try Klotz Super Techniplate, it is 20% BeNOL Racing castor oil mixed with 80% Synthetic. Same protection with less smoke less deposits. (clean burn)

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

One of the guys at the local hobby shop recomended this oil to me to fun in my Gas engines... What's you opinion on it?

cap10b

I too run Klotz KL-100 Techniplate with BeNol at 80:1 in a Brison 2.4 turns a GRS 20x8 at 8000 static. Burns clean.
Dont know about straight Klotz castor as a sub for the stuff you can buy from Sig Mfg. The Sig stuff will run in gas or methonal.
i just read the data sheet it should be an equal replacement for Bakers AA Cator Oil. In fact from the data sheet it sounds
better.

http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/BC-175-1.pdf

Good Luck

JDS

crashhappy

I BELIVE IF YOU WANT TO RUN KLOTZ OIL YOU SHOULD RUN KL310. SEEMS TO BE THE BEST IVE EVER USED. ITS MADE FOR R/C ENGINES. IVE ALSO USED KL102 FILM STRENTH IS COMPARABLE TO CASTOR

BULL-RCU

My Feedback: (15)

I have the same set up as you... What was your break in ratio... How long have you been running the 2.4?
Geting ready to run it in my WACO


Thanks

cap10b

Bull-RCU
No breakin ratio, dont baby the 2.4 its a strong motor and it runs and flys right out of the box. I used to work
for Gary at Brison A/C and I have seen a ton of 2.0 and 2.4 and they all run the same off the test bench. This is the
third tour for this motor its been overhauled twice once after two seasons in a Yellow AC Cap10B that ran in an unbaffled
cowling on an 18x10 Zinger that had to be over 8200 on the ground and 9000 in the air. Also ran it 100:1 needless to say
after two flying seasons of that (and this is Texas so the flying never stops) I needed new con rod, new low end bearing new
rings (Now remember this was back when the 2.4 first came out and most of the parts were for 2.0 the 2.4 caused some redesign of certain parts my job was to fly the pants off the motor and try to make it break) Laid off for a few years dug the 2.4 out and installed it in another plane and quickly crashed it. Another trip back to the shop Same crank, new rings, new bearings, new timing wheel and sensor, new carb new linkages cost me $140.00 ( I paid this time Gary paid last time)

Installed in the Hurricane ran 20x8 zinger 8000 on the ground, no shaking, switched to a GRS 20x8 carbon fiber got the RPM down to 7400 just added a slimline muffler got back to 7500 gained 100 RPM Still runing 80:1 Klotz motor is strong, I have about 33 flights on it since overhaul, a little over 3.65 hours flight time (I keep a log of all my flights) The old muffler ran about 103DB at 3 meters the new muffler is significantly quieter. This is the same motor I started out with when I went to work for Gary same case and same head same crank, all we have ever done is overhaul it when when I wrecked it. Runs like a top everytime.

Just flew a 22x8 Zinger Pro, way too much prop plane was slow, rpm was 6500 on the ground too slow for this motor. Ran a 20x10 Zinger Pro and got 7000 even on the ground much better flight not any faster than a 20x8 not as much vertical was a little quieter. The Carbon Fiber Competition prop 20x8 runs the best, the plane really flys on that prop and vertical is very good. Also it will hover not quit able to pull its self out but can hover.

My ignition is C&H with the new CNC billet cap, running a CM9 NGK (same thing they run on the 3W and DA) plug runs light chocolate brown to dark carmel brown. My plane weights a solid 15 lbs if not 15.5

Good luck

JDS