HI would a fuel blend of 80% methonal 20% castrol 0% nitro be any good in a k&b engine that calls for at least 20% oil thanks michael

Any engine will run fine on that fuel (it's my standard brew) but if your K&B is one of the old iron piston types then I'd use at least 25% castor.

thanks I found castrol oil on the internet at a place that sells soap and make up supplies for 20.00 a gal castrol oil is castrol oil right michael

Castrol is Castrol and castor is castor but Castrol is not necessarily castor.

Castrol is a brand-name for a wide range of oils made by Castrol UK.

Castor oil is the name of the oil extracted from the castor bean.

And not all castor oils are made equal.

It's important to use a degummed castor oil in model engines or they'll soon wind up covered in a thick sticky tar-like varnish that will rob them of performance and may even stop them from running.

I don't know if castor made for the cosmetic industry would be degummed or not.

someone told me to check out sig and i did and it would seem that the price is about the same. guess i will order from sig seems that is where people are getting there oil from thanks michael

The brand name Castrol comes from the words Castor oil because that was the oil they were first producing about 100 years ago in England. All castor is degummed as part of the initial pressing/filtering/refining process but other processes after that can turn it into something that's anywhere from a grease to a soap so I'd be wary of any castor that's supplied to the cosmetics industry.

http://www.campbell-uv.com/castor.html

That tar like varnish is not gum. Castor gum is in Bakers A not AA, it never was in AA so to say it is degummed is not accurate. If it was degummed then it is inferior oil.

I get mine from the pharmacy , about 2.89 for 6 oz. Medicinal castor if fine as long as it has no added sugar and since it is considered a medecine it will have an ingredients label.

Castrol M is there racing castor oil which is very suitable for these high reving glow engines but i must say i don,t like to use castor oil as a total lube compared to years ago when this was the only oil before any synthetic oils came on the market, running straight castor does eventually clog bearings and glaze piston liners so it is prefered to use castor as a percentage with a synthetic oil, i use 18 percent synthetic and 2 percent castor. even model engine manufacturers state to use a simular oil mix. not castor only.

Hmmm...well I've been using Castrol M for the last 50 years and never seen any glazing or had a clogged bearing (other than bearings that have sat idle for a few years). With the engine that I used the most, every hundred or so hours I'd clean the carbon off the piston crown and go for another hundred odd hours. It's still got the original bearings but I put a new set of rings in it after several hundred hours because it was taking a couple of flicks to get it running .

In a ringed engine, a straight-castor lube package *can* cause the ring to stick after a while but on an ABC engine I know of no instance where such a fuel has caused any problems (unless the engine is left unused for any length of time).

However, with good synthetics on the market there seems to be little reason to run a pure-castor lube package these days and most engines will show a useful power-gain when a good proportion of synth is used in the lube package (due to the lower viscosity and viscous drag that results)

Of course plain-bearing (bushed) engines should still have a very healthy percentage of castor (because you want hi-viscosity to extend the journal-life).

On my BB engines I run just 2%-3% castor with the balance synthetic, on my plain-bearing engines I run at least 10% castor with the balance synthetic.

Castor is a fine lubricant but if you want the *best* performance from your engine then a little synth will not hurt one bit at all.