NitroWolf

Anyone have actual HP specs on the DTX 23cc engine?

gonsped69

My Feedback: (6)

I read somewhere from a goped supply shop - 2.5hp without muffler.

squiz1

hello
you can buy fg parts in austrlia
heres the link

www.aspracing.com.au

islandmu

Greetings to all. I had mine for about a month know, and slapped on Quake monster tiers. Its my first gas beast its fun and well built happy with mine. I have one question to all Veterans out there thou is there a place i can get steel gears or will the fg parts work on the firehammer? Between the Duratrax and FG i like them both its just the cash. I think they both perform well not much of a difference. Over all I am happy with my Firehammer. About the question Good or Bad my answer is GOOOOD.

gonsped69

My Feedback: (6)

I believe the steel pinions are different to the FG, however the steel spurs should fit as the plastic ones are identical.

The only place I know where to find Firehammer/Carson/Smartech steel pinions are www.rc-car-online.de

aspracing

I agree. There is a differance in spacing between the Pinion gear ( on the clutch bell) and the layshaft gear. To overcome this differance the Smarttec gear is a different size. If you want to convert your car to accept all the range of gears that FG offer you would need to replace a couple of parts. like the Gear carrier plate and large Engine mount. It's also a good opportunity to upgrade the rear brake as well

m3otm

this guy obviously very miffed someone produced a copy of marder but a lot better and stronger and overall better.Im new to 1/6 scale but friend has marder and says my traveller (firehammer) is a much better model car (not toy) than his marder that cost him nearly twice as much as mine complete....

mikec456

My Feedback: (1)

I'm having the same problem and I wonder if the new gears I'm waiting for will solve the problem? My firehammer has the aluminum gear plate for Carson/Smartech from RC-Car-SHop Hobbythek. The 48 spur and 18 pinion is too tight. I purchased a duratrax firehammer 15t pinion. Will this work or is there a differnt pinion I should purchase? I don't mind the lower ratio 3.2 compared to the stock 2.52 for 19/48. Any thoughts?

csp1971

If you are talking about the 19 tooth pinion gear that meshes with the 48t spur gear, then get a steel 19 tooth here:

http://www.innovativehobby.com/index...OD&ProdID=1015


If you are looking at the drive pinion/transfer gear, towerhobbies:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHTV9&P=7

Dan H

I'm getting a new steering servo soon. What do you guys recommend?

I also plan to get a pullstart cover. Is there anything else I should get for the stock buggy?

hellya

The 805BB works great http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...bby-servo.aspx

Get a FG alloy servo saver works great http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/fg/...uck_hopup.html


also get a steel pinion http://www.innovativehobby.com/index...OD&ProdID=1015

Dan H

Does the 805BB have issues breaking? I heard its a common problem on the HPI Baja but the setup on the FH is a bit different. I'd love to get the 805BB since the specs are impressive and its only $40.

wave waker

i don't have firehammer but i have 1/8 warhead nitro by duratrax and it's a nightmare, a really junk one, that's why i'm trying to get away from duratrax, i do no what kind of engineering they did in this truck...otherwise a 1/5 gas rc truck cost $500+ is a good deal but watchout in the long run how durable it is, u might spend more...my 2cents..

hellya

the firehammer is a decent 1/5 vehicle.....you can get the smartech traveller from the source on ebay for $300-400 shipped no radio system

bhcvc

I just ran the first tank of gas through mine today. I had a couple of problems and resulting questions I hope you guys can help me with:

1. The pull starter cable broke in the first 5 pulls! I took off the cover and reattached the cable, but now it never retracts all the way in. Also, every time I pull it to start the engine, the cable gets longer and longer afterwards (it retracts less and less). I'm going to see if Tower will send a replacement, but for the time being, what can I do to make it retract? Did I assemble it wrong? I just took it apart, threaded the cable through the cover hole, into the hole that turns (and turns the crank), wound the cable, and put it all back together. Not sure if I need to wind it and put it back together a certain way in order for it to retract all the way all the time???

2. The throttle servo sticks in the full brake position. When it sticks, it won't take commands from the transmitter. If I turn off then back on the receiver several times (it won't do it on the first off-on), the servo will reset and take commands again from the transmitter. But it's doing this quite often making it quite annoying.

Thanks for the help!

SAVAGEJIM

For you pullstarter, try getting the pullstarter that goes onto a CY or Zenoah engine. It sounds like the spring on these DT engines' pullstarters might be going into their plastic phase of their stress curves and not restoring to their original shapes. This is indicative of poor metallurgy in the spring, that is, if this is what is happening to your pullstarter.

Or, as your guess, it might be that you did not assemble it correctly. Try this: make sure you put tension on the spring by twisting it at least two revolutions before securing the tab to teh string spool. Alternatively. on the top of "T" of the Pullstarter handle, do you see the knot of teh string? with the pullstart assembly off teh engine, but the string spool still on the spring tab and in the cover, Untie the knot from teh handle. Now, turn the string spool 2 revolutions to tension the sping, slip the string up teh hole, back into teh "T" handle piece, and retie teh knot. And as the French would say "Et Viola!"


For your own troubleshooting to determine if the radio is indeed faulty, before you dismount anything from your RC, check all your wirings and make sure all the connectors are seated properly. Make sure teh crystals on teh radio and RX are seated properly too. Make sure your batts are fully charged. Make sure no one else is on your radio's channel.

If the radio set continues to give you problems, you can call Duratrax.
Duratrax used to include Futaba sets as teh RTR radio gear, but I do not know if they do anymore, they might have went to a cheaper chinese radio supplier.

I personally recommend you upgrade your radio set with a 2.4GHz mid-grade radio. Most, if not all RTR radios are ususally crappy and lack many basic features that should be on every RC radio.

EDIT: Sorry to lead you wrong, the Stresstech warranty only covers plastic parts, and the only the pieces specifically mentioned in the FH Parts List will be covered.

bhcvc

Savagejim - thanks for all the great info.

For the pull starter, I hope it's just an assembly issue. I may not have tensioned the spring properly on assembly. I think I need to tension fully with the pull start cord fully extended so that the spring reel the cord back in when it releases its tension. I'm hoping Tower or Duratrax will help with the starter...maybe send a new one that I can just plop in and throw the cover on.

I believe the radio is a Futaba as that's what it says on the outside of the box. I didn't see Futaba markings on the radio itself (but none of ny RTR futaba radios have futaba markings). Here's a couple of observations that may be useful to help me debug this:

1. when the throttle servo sticks, the steering servo still works fine
2. the sticking occurs more toward the end of the run and after I flip the truck
3. there was no one else around me that I could see that was running any TX equipment
4. the wiring looked good
5. TX batteries are new

If the RX battery were getting low, would the steering servo still work fine all the time? Item #1 seems to point away from a low battery since the steering servo still works. Item #2 seems to counter #1 and point to a low RX battery.

Could it also be the fail safe? But I thought the failsafe kills the engine?...and if I get communication back between TX & RX, shouldn't the failsafe stop and allow the throttle servo to work again automatically?

I plan to get a 2.4GHz system in the future so I can control all my RCs with one radio, but that's down the road.

thanks!

SAVAGEJIM

Well, after doing some more research, the FH comes with an 1800mAh batt. That is usually a low capacity batt , and since the FH can run in excess of 30min, that 1800 mAh is not alot. I suggest you try getting a 5000 mAh capacity 6V batt to.

The low batt capacity leads me to think that your RC has a fail safe kicking in. If I remember correctly, the Futabas that used to accompany the FH had an R125 RX. (I think this i a JR RX). I do not know if this RX has a built-in fail safe, but from what you described is happening to your electronics towards teh end of a run, it sounds like a failsafe is kicking in.

In a low batt failsafe situation, the throttle will either kick into neutral or brake (depending on how you pre-programmed it) but the steering will remain so you can guide the truck safely out of harm's way. So, knowing that the batt is only 1800 mAh and the symptoms you described, this indicates a failsafe doing its thing. (I am actually surprised, I didnt know RTR RCs even had radio sets with failsafe built in).

As for the failsafe shutting teh engine off, that is only possible if teh radio is a 3channel and you have like a Pico electronic kill switch plugged into teh 3rd channel slot on the RX. The FH radio, either the old discontinued Ftuaba Magnum 2ch JR, of maybe the newer radio (possibly a JR, most likely 2 ch only), these radios do not have the ability to shut down the engine by way of failsafe. The 3rd channel and an electronic kill switch must be installed on the truck to do this. Additionally, you would have to program the 3rd channel to activate in a failsafe situation so the kills switch will short the magneto.

hellya

the 5000mah wont fit in the holder for the battery...try a 3000 or 3200mah

Also with your recoil of the pull starter... you need to wind it up to put tension on the spring... that why its not recoiling after you broke the handle off

check to make sure your linkage for the steering servo doesn't bind at Wot.....if your servo is faulty ....get a hitec 645...$29.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hitec-645MG-HS64...3A1%7C294%3A50

Dan H

Well, my Smartech Traveller/Firehammer finally came in today. Also got an HPI Baja SS coming in tomorrow too. I could not resist with $200 off at Towerhobbies and the $50 rebate from HPI.

So far, my initial observations is the FH seems very simple and robust. Maintenance and cleaning looks easy, which cannot probably be said of the HPI baja. The radio tray on the FH is a joke and flexes too much.

I'm still undecided if I should just run or sell the FH, but a part of me wants to run both buggies. Of course the Baja SS is an engineering marvel but I've heard there is more stuff to break on it.... Anyways, can't wait to get it tomorrow and begin the build process.

SAVAGEJIM

Actually, both the Firehammer and teh HPI 5B are rather simple machines, and as fr having more stuff to break, both really do not have too much stuff to give you problems (as far as complex items and all).

The FireHammer is just as easy to wok on as an FG (the RC it is cloned from) and so if you know your way around an FG, working on the FireHammer is virtually 100% the same.

The HPI 5B will not be any more dificult to work on, you might be able to access more parts just a little easier, and if so, that is ebcause moer of the parts are easier to reach by hand, where on an FG or FG clone, you might have to dismount teh entire engine to get at the gearing (to replace gears, bearings, etc.)

hellya

there are alloy trays for the FH $15 www. large scale forums .com /forum/showthread.php?t=3400

Dirby

you have to be careful when you set the fail safe on your fire hammer.
i set mine and the throttle servo was working the wrong way so i reversed the tb servo direction.
however i did not reset the failsafe.
the rx battery went low.
the failsafe kicked in and instead of going to full brakes it went to full throttle.
Did i say Runaway.
yesereebobby.
it finely stopped when it Decapatated it self under a pick up truck.
check your fail safe and set it so the engine will go too idle not full brakes that way if it goes to fail safe a long distance away from you your throttle servo won't burn up by the time you get to it.
realy the Best thing you could do is get a
Futaba 3PM 2.4 Gig radio system and a Diemaster kill Switch and properly install and set it up than you will have no more radio problems.