Engine break in?????
#1
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Engine break in?????
Hey guys, I am getting mixed opinions. I should get my FGMT in a couple days, with that said I don't want to blow it up. Do these engines need to be broken in, carb settings, rich mixture etc. Please let me know. I thought these were gas an go like dirt bikes. I have no problem if they need to be broken in, I can do that. But I don't want to do it if it doesnt have to be done. I planned on taking it easy with the fisrt tank NO WOT. After that I was going to let'er rip.
Oh, can you buy new spark plugs at a local auto parts store for these.
stop me if I'm making a mistake.
thanks
Oh, can you buy new spark plugs at a local auto parts store for these.
stop me if I'm making a mistake.
thanks
#2
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RE: Engine break in?????
you shouldnt need to break it in. my neighbor has that and a baja b5 and he didnt break either in and he has had them for a while and they work great. so i would say no you should be ably to take it to WOT as soon as you start it for the first time.
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RE: Engine break in?????
Recomended that run it gently for the first half tank,give it a bit more on the second half.....refill and give it the gun !!!
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RE: Engine break in?????
Hi Kdfi73 I think the word you are looking for is patient's. Ask your self the question, how long do you want the engine to last, then pull the trigger.
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RE: Engine break in?????
just in case some times with factory settings the engines are set to run a bit rich which could be worth a check at some point otherwise have fun with it http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/micons/m9.gif
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/micons/m9.gif
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/micons/m9.gif
#7
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RE: Engine break in?????
run it to 1/2 or 3/4 throatle for 5 to 10 minutes to get it up to operating temps the drive it like you stole at. after the first tank or 2 is thru, set your needles for goood performance and a dark carmel or medium brown color and your good to go, these motors just need to get to operating temps to help seat the ring to the cylinder, after its gone thru a 1/2 tank of fuel, its as seated as it will get if you been driving it at all.
mix to 25:1 ratio, 5.2 oz of oil per gallon of gas. get it warm for the 1st 10 minutes, and rip it up. Keep the airfilter properly oiled and CLEAN so dirt dont get thru to the motor and you ll be good.
Timmahh
mix to 25:1 ratio, 5.2 oz of oil per gallon of gas. get it warm for the 1st 10 minutes, and rip it up. Keep the airfilter properly oiled and CLEAN so dirt dont get thru to the motor and you ll be good.
Timmahh
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RE: Engine break in?????
[:@] You will find that a lot of people have a lot of different options! The main thing is it is your $$$$! This is what I was told if you want it to last! Some people say no break in, but I would & did. BASIC CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT: & Break In
I would not use a synthetic oil until after break-in, the following is how I broke in my FG:
1. Heat cycle the engine about 3 times (start it, let it warm up, then cut it off and allow it to cool.)
2. Now you can run it, do not run the truck at full throttle, apply the throttle in and out, at this point you want to vary the load on the engine no more then 1/4 throttle, (Do this for the first two tanks of fuel, you can get a little more aggressive on the second tank, but do not hold the truck at full throttle).
3. After the 2nd tank you can let her rip! Idle RPM 4000RPM+or-300RPM (H) is1.1/2 +or-1/4 & (L) is1.1/4 +or-1/4. As I said earlier, the standard settings are just a guide line and most carbs have to be adjusted, if you feel that your no-load (L) or your full load (H) screws are completely misadjusted, then carefully close both screws. Then turning them anti clockwise follow the settings that are listed above. Screwing them out make's it richer. I started off with the L set at 1&1/4 from seated & the H at 1&1/2. Part's are easy to get from online. PS:POINTS TO REMEMBER:
When tuning off your engine, after every run make sure you check the bubble on the carb. If this is empty after testing then this means your engine is too hot and running too lean. What you should be looking for is a full bubble or nearly full at least.
TOO MUCH SMOKE:
You should also be aware of your engine if it smokes to much, this means it is running too rich and is getting too much fuel. To adjust this turn your L screw in by 1/16 turn, remember imagine that the screw is the face of a clock, small adjustments is all you need.
I would not use a synthetic oil until after break-in, the following is how I broke in my FG:
1. Heat cycle the engine about 3 times (start it, let it warm up, then cut it off and allow it to cool.)
2. Now you can run it, do not run the truck at full throttle, apply the throttle in and out, at this point you want to vary the load on the engine no more then 1/4 throttle, (Do this for the first two tanks of fuel, you can get a little more aggressive on the second tank, but do not hold the truck at full throttle).
3. After the 2nd tank you can let her rip! Idle RPM 4000RPM+or-300RPM (H) is1.1/2 +or-1/4 & (L) is1.1/4 +or-1/4. As I said earlier, the standard settings are just a guide line and most carbs have to be adjusted, if you feel that your no-load (L) or your full load (H) screws are completely misadjusted, then carefully close both screws. Then turning them anti clockwise follow the settings that are listed above. Screwing them out make's it richer. I started off with the L set at 1&1/4 from seated & the H at 1&1/2. Part's are easy to get from online. PS:POINTS TO REMEMBER:
When tuning off your engine, after every run make sure you check the bubble on the carb. If this is empty after testing then this means your engine is too hot and running too lean. What you should be looking for is a full bubble or nearly full at least.
TOO MUCH SMOKE:
You should also be aware of your engine if it smokes to much, this means it is running too rich and is getting too much fuel. To adjust this turn your L screw in by 1/16 turn, remember imagine that the screw is the face of a clock, small adjustments is all you need.