RickShane

My Feedback: (1)

Aeajr: I'm the one that has the JR 6102 radio, and 11 yr ols don.Since Ineed to buy everything (2 Batteries & charger) Iplan on buying the RTF since I have nothing electric in my fleet of planes.Heck for $20.00 more I get the radio that comes with it.Can Imix with the radio? What functions does that radio have?What radio is it a Dx5e? Oh and how much flight time can you get out of a battery withthe motoron the entire flight?

Thanks again. I think Iam going to pick it up in the next few days. After looking at other gliders like the Dynam Sonic,Sky Hawk,and a few others, my hobby shop carries NO parts for anythem. And the good thing about the Radian is I can get all the parts I need at my hobby shop, so that's a BIGplus! Ican't wait to get out and fly!!

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

Let's be clear, as this thread isabout the Radian Pro which has ailerons and flaps. The Radian Pro does not come RTF. It is not sold with a Radio. I do not own a Radian Pro, at least not yet.

The original Radian is a R/E/motor glider with no ailerons. It is available with a radio. The Radian RTF radio is the DX5e. This is a 5 channel standard radio. The only mix is elevon. There is a dual rate switch but I am not sure what it impacts since I never use it. I own an original Radian.

As forflying a pack with the motor on all the time, I have no idea.I would never do that with the Radian or the Pro, these are gliders.Using the standard Parkzone 1300 mah pack I would guess about 4 minutes of full throttle run time, but I have never tried it and would never fly either Radian this way.

This is a glider. I measure duration in climbs, not minutes.On the original Radian ( notthePro) I get 8-10 climbs/reclimbs per pack. Typically I get an hour or more out of a pack.If the lift is good I might fly for2-3 hours without replacing thepack.If I am on the slope I might fly for 6 hours without replacing the pack.

If you want a power on airplane, these are not the planes for you, in my opinion.

tlar

I think I am responsible on the RTF / radio included question...my bad....I used the term ready to fly when I should have said bind and fly (BNF). The BNF comes with rcvr, charger and battery. You would have to own a compatable Xmitter to use this version. I can tell you the Park Zone charger and battery is around $60 incl shipping from Horizon. My wife ordered the plug and play version which doesnt include battery, charger and rcvr. My LHSdid not have a plug and play but told wife that they woulde remove those parts. I ordered the charger and battery prior to gettintg my gift. On opening the model the battery , radio and charger were still included. Guess I was lucky. I called and asked if they wanted theses parts they declined.

In my opinion for someone starting out the original Radion that has the radio chargers etc included is a good buy however be aware that the original probably has a 3 channel radio which may or may not be useful later.

I also suggest you talk to your son to be sure he is glider oriented.If not I suggest a good electric power plane. My son at 15 never would have wanted a glider as he had the "need for speed" . I doubt that even at his current age of 30 he would be much different.

I might add that if you know you are going to be really into sailplanes to the point of entering contests etc buy as much radio as you can afford. That means a computer radio. When I started I bought a 6 channel computer thinking that a sailplane couldnt possibvly need more. But now I wish I had gotten a high enf 8-10 channel. Aeajr has proven you can get most functions out of a 6 channel but you have to ber creative. I managed to get ailerons flaps and crow out of mine. Took me about 6 hrs to do it though. (Airtronics RD6000).

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

The radio included with the RTF Radian ( not the pro) is a 5 channel DSM2 DX5e which can fly just about any 5 channel aircraft at full range.

eastcoast

I think oyu should get one..your experience has been a assist too the discussions on the Pro,and you don't own one...Were not getting thermals in these parts this time of the year..and with the cold NE Atlantic ocean. Winds are cool here in the summer,it may get max 25C mid summer with a cool breeze 80% of the time from the ocean.
As for now its winter,we have no snow...all rain for the past 30+ days ive managed too get 3 flights in the past month [:'(]...I haven't tested the Pro yet in with calm winds.But im not sure how she well soar around with out wind.
You still may be able too get 45mins on a 1300 ,with no winds or thermals...
Right now im getting around approx a hour flight with 25km/h winds.She shines in the wind.

I just have too wait for a calm day to see what i can get.
Hopefully the WX does not change for for Thursday Sunny 0C/25km/h Friday 0C, winds 10km/h

eastcoast

For anyone new too this plane Radian Pro Heres a run down of my modification as of now.
There's quite of bit info
Some of these mods are personal preference and some are(what i thought was necessary to get this Exciting Introduction Sail Plane in the Air).


Enjoy
Well the Weather has been the Poops up here in Newfoundland, Canada as of late.
This fall has been very Mild.Lots of Rain and High winds.Xmas is just around the corner
and Santa came a week early .Let just say it was addressed Too Mike
From Mike lol




The Pro is Quite the Step up form the Original Radian.Bring the Full house glider capabilities for around $200
for a PNP and around $250 for a BNF.
I have yet too Maiden this Ship.I cant Wait,being Winter here Soon.
The 30A ESC form Park Zone comes with ES3 Connectors.All my Turnigy batteries Come with the Great XT60
Connectors.So right from the get go i Swapped out the ES3's and got the Soldering Iron going.

Battery with the Factory installed XT60

New XT60 Female Installed on the 30A ESC

I got the PNP version and added the great 6CH Orange RX with the Satellite Installed.Ive tested
the RX with out the Sat and was very Impressed.I flew my Euro-jet with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTD5WRIZqHE
I Flew as far away as i would with my 40 Size Glow plane with a AR6200+Satellite with no Problems what so ever...
People have also reported hitting the Clouds with this RX with out the satellite installed.So i am very confident
with well hold up for range capabilities.

Back on the 5th picture,1st of the Connector Snaps you can see the RX satellite on the bottom left corner with the
aerial Pointed Vertical. The main Aerial on the RX is Horizontal.I Fished the satellite lead in-under the battery compartment,
It seems it they made the little tunnel/gap for for the ESC> Throttle port and worked perfect for it and the Satellite lead.
A few Notes on some of the things new owners have some across.
1.HH stated it was the same motor as the Radian1.People did test .motor do not preform as well as the original motor.
New motor getting around 13A
Org motor was/is pulling around 18A.Guys have been swapping the Prop to Cam 10x8 with great jump in Watts and Amp.
I have 2 on order lol.
So is it a Prop issue or a Motor issue? A few Owners have bought a Stock Radian Prop and got a different/higher Amp reading.
So it could just be a de-fault/defective props shipped with the Pro.
HH have not Disclosed any Info on the matter....YET.
So who really knows:censored:
[EDIT] HH announced last week that it is indeed a Prop Issue
and is replacing /Sending out new Props for RadPro owners.Im not even going too bother.the Prop cost $4.50 ,and if it takes a Hour of my life to get a free $4.50 Prop..Forget about it....Ill stick with my New 10x8's hehe...
2. Motor has a different (metal Housing) Which lad people too believe that the motors are bad,coupled with the lower Amps
and very Different climb rates of the Pro vs the Radian.
Org had a Plastic housing and there were a lot of issues with the Bell cracking on the old ones.

3.Push rods are in the Plastic tubes that are partly glued/stapled too the the Fuse.the rods are a very Snug fit.And makes trimming
the Elev nearly imposable.My Rudder was not too bad.But a great fix was take the rods out and sand them down with some
sand paper.I used 120 grit.Some people even used
Graphite Lube(its dry and well not gum up over time with cold/dirt.
I found just by sanding the coating off ,they work great.
I also reamed the inside of the tubing with the threaded side of the Control rod for about 5 mins .scraping the inside a bit,it helped.
So hopefully the Winds settle down to at least 25 km for a Maiden.this weekend (Boxing day seems to be the
nearest day in sight)...Fingers crossed.
All in all With Just a few minor adjustments ans new Prop selection(which i think is normal for most $200 Foam planes.I think its great
and you cant go wrong with this Plane.I don't
think there's a plane out there that is 100% perfect.If you do Please let me know...lol
4. Don't use the crap pieces of tape they supply to keep the Hor Stab in place,I threw it in the garbage just looking at it.
I used some Strips of White Duct tape .Works great and its not moving.
I well update after the Maiden with my Thoughts on the Radian Pro.

Dec 27.2010
Well i just taped up my Battery door with clear packing tape.
While flying in snow and getting snow in that area is a BIG NO NO...
Notice if your flying in snow or coming into contact with Moisture at all.Might be a good idea.Seeing its Winter here now//With no
snow,Just lots of rain.
When the snow do finally come, i plan on flying in it. I am also going too put my RX in a balloon. i need to get some tomorrow.



I taped the sides of the plane about a Inch past the Door seam .Kinda hard too see.
Doing a short Video now.After i went into the Programming of the ESC,I noticed it make a different sound...then the normal "Beep" count of the cells in your Battery. Its more like a Chime sound...

This is my First E Flight ESC..Any ideas? Well post the Video after Up load.[/COLOR]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5Vhn8soqpI
Dec 28th
Well found out what i did,I set the ESC for Cut off at 74% default,If that's default setting form the Factory, Why did mine make the Beep-Beep-Beep chime when i first got it? beats me!!!Well its set too that now...
So it makes that different Chime letting me know its set for 74% Cut off.
Learn a lot by truly reading the Manuel lol..I did read the Steps for Programming the ESC ,but not the WHOLE thing.
So i went tonight and put my RX in a Balloon for safety/Protection of Snow/Wet grass/Moisture getting in the Underside Bay.
Im not sure if its just RC planes electronics,but every other piece of electronics Ive had fried with Moisture.
I also cut back the tape to the 4th hole on Aft side of the Door to let air Circulate. But i don't think ill have any issues with over heating...





It was mentioned by some one awhile back on 1 or the 2 tread discussions about getting a touch more Float out of the Pro.
So i Sub Trimmed my Flaps down 5mm( Im going too test it anyways and see.

LOL i realize i haven't even flown this Bird yet and have done a few things too her. But like any New plane i like testing differeant options.Im sure i could fly it Stock and be happy....
As of now... the WX shows signs of being THE DAY for the Maiden tomorrow... Fingers crossed Boys....
I also decided too replace the Rubber Stops on the Clevis's too some nice
Silicone Fuel tubing.They are 10 more time stronger now...

Dec 29th

Well after almost a month of looking at the Pro ,Weather has been crap.
So today i finally got to Fly her.
I really like it.maybe not the best for a 1st Plane.But once you get her dialed too how you like it,its a blast too fly.
Flaps work great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hebfdJ8kQpM

Jan 1st

Alright Decided too go over my Elev Push rod again this evening.I already did the sanding a last week, before my Maiden.Man was it ever stiff in the Tube.It took about 4-5 clicks on the Trim button for any kind of movement ..Thats not good.Extra/unnecessary strain on you Servo Well do no good.
1. Wear your servo out.
2.Drain your Battery
3.Crash

So i still felt like it was a touch to tight still. I would advise anyone too try and trim your ELEV and watch the movement of your Elevator...
You should see movement with 1 click .making trimming your Aircraft Super easy and the way it should be.

Here's a few Pics of the Process.Its pretty straight forward..

You can see the amount i moved the Horn in on the Control Surface.
The Curve at the end was not helping.



Release the Clevis form the horn(take a Mental note of which Hole you have it in).And roughly how many turns it takes too unscrew it off the push rod.


Next Unscrew the tiny screw from the Servo arm.


Pull the rod out towards the nose until its out of the tubing.


Next take some sand paper i used 120 Grit .Use 80 if oyu would like too sand more quicker!! Some elbow grease is needed here.


Along with the replacing the thin rubber clevis's on the Flaps and Ailerons
Seeing im down in this area i decided too replace them back here as well.
I used some standard silicon fuel tubing i had on hand..Works very good and now it really feels secure.


Now when you put your Clevis back on, screw it back on to around the
same number of turns when it was taking off.
I hold the Control surface so its straight and level with the Horizontal stab.you can also use low tach tape.

Now power on your TX and plug your Battery into your ESC..
Make sure your Elev trim is in the center.


Once the Clevis even with the Horn, install it in the Hole you had it in prior.




Now it may not be perfect,so you can unclip your clevis and mark half turns till your Elev is perfect .
If you dont want too Undo your clevis again ,you can use the Sub Trim option and fine tuned the Control surface perfectly...Works like a charm...
As you can see i was a touch high/up.It took me 10 down too make it nice and level.


Now screw your horn back onto your servo


I also received my Graupner 10x8 Props the other day.The with of the shoulder is 6mm.and the Stock park-zone props are 8mm .So you are left with a 2mm gap.Some guys have said its fine and some have said fill it.
You can use some Teflon washers or something similar.
Someone said they use some fuel tubing..
It took me about 20 cuts to get it right.So the Props fall/fold freely but it works...
Make sure oyu put/install the Shims on the TE(Trailing Edge) of the prop


Haven't flown her with the new Props yet...It says on the prop Max 7000Rpm...I was 50% Thr and was at 5500-6000rpms...i could not give anymore Thr then 50%.Seeing it wanted too lift out of my hand and i was in my kitchen/work shop lol and everything was blowing everywhere
I think this Prop is the best upgrade for this Plane/Power system...

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

I have about 19 gliders now, 5 of which are electric. I have two 3M electrics that have not even been flown yet and a new electric/winchable kit about to hit the building table. I don't need the Radian Pro. Iwould have no place to store it.

I am happy to help where I can, but I can't own every plane out there.

Ed

eastcoast

Ha!! yea i would say...

zzz12

Hello [>:] i have a new Parkzone Radian Pro can you take the old motor out of the old radian and put it in the new radian pro. To get more power thanks.

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

Yes you can swap the motors, but try just swapping the propellers first.  I think you will be pleased.

zzz12

Thanks for you help

zzz12

What would be the best prop for the radian pro to get the power up on her. I went flying today with her no wind blue sky. she drop out of the sky faster than the old radian.
Thanks all happy flying . ps one thing to look out for is the wing plugs . Do not ask crashed 1 mile away luck to get her back. new body and spinner. She is fixed now and flying.

sengli

My Feedback: (27)

I have a PNP version. It flies O.K. The wings and the tail flexes alot in windy conditions so it flies wishy washy. At least compared to my balsa built gliders, but its O.K. The power system in this glider is I think marginal for climb power. Firewalled it climbs alright, but stalls easily. Again I compare this to my other powered gliders which climb straight up without hesitation. My radian glider out the box must have been a defect cause i ended up moving the lipo battery all the way up to just behind the motor, and even added 3 ounces of lead to balance it properly. With this being done it flies fine. This is my first aileron equipped glider, and it is diappointing how little control the ailerons have on this glider. The rudder is really the only way to turn this plane.

skydell

My Feedback: (9)

Radian Pro is my first eGlider. I found the elevator pushrod system to be binding awfully out of the box, and tried sanding the the metal pushrod down and reaming out the plastic channel, as well as moving the control horn inboard (as suggested here), but still had unacceptable binding, causing over controlling in pitch due to lack of movement of the control rod from friction.   I  removed the entire elevator pushrod system (gently pulled out the metal staple, detached the clevis from the horn, pulled the white tube up and away from the fuselage starting at the tail - it comes out easily), and substituted a Sullivan Gold-N-Rod nylon pushrod system (red outer tubing, yellow splined inside rod).  With twisting and gentle pushing, the outer red tube goes right through the existing channel in the foam fuselage and into the servo bay, in place of the white tube.   A little clear silicone glue in the old track in the side of the fuselage where the exposed part of the old white tube was holds the new red tube in place.  No need for the metal staple.   Now the elevator movement is as smooth as silk, no binding whatsoever, accurate centering, and the servo is using far less current.   Other than the over-night time to let the silicone glue set, total time for the fix was about a 1/2 hr.   Would not be a bad idea to do the same thing to the rudder.

zwever39

I had also had binding push-rods and followed EC's method of sanding and a light coat of lubricant (I used a drop of WD40) thinly spread..
Mine hasn't flown yet.
I set it up on my 9303 with some success (camber on flaps only no reflex) as Acro, maybe not my best idea.
I also tried setting it up on my DX7 using the info from HH and the hints on RCG both RP threads and was very unhappy with that and stopped trying the DX7. For instance I got 90 dgr flap on the gear (crow) switch and other weird events. On my 9303 I have on my 3 pos flap switch: no flap, half flap and full flap (approx 75 gdr) with some down elevator, no crow, with that much flap crow is not really needed. Camber is on the right switch (regretfully flaps only will add ailerons at some point). My choice is - all switches up no programming switch position other than up will select feature as I choose.
Watch the CG carefully as noted... the supplied battery is quite far forward (it would have taken 1.25 oz to balance mine with the supplied battery all the way in the pocket!.
Now to wait for good weather.

zwever39

Also as a hint... when programing an electric plane, whether my Wingo or any other where there is a danger of accidentally hitting the throttle I use a normal 4.8 volt receiver battery till I'm done. Reduces mistaeks.
I actually converted a 5 vdc smps wall-wart with a JR female plug so I don't have to find out my battery is discharged. (FIOS modem uses them and they sent me an extra one once (they are so nice)... flea markets also often have them for a buck or so)
R

RadianFlyer

Hey All...

I just got a Radian Pro PNP. My thinking was that I could(for now)use the DX5e from my radian(and the ar500)in the pro and get: ailerons-elevator-rudder ...AND FLAPS(???) The AR500 has a 'gear' slot which I figured I could use to perate the flaps.

But...a very odd thing happens when I activate the flaps(apparently the 'gear' slot is activated by the 'Trainer' switch on the DX5e), in that when I flip the trainer switch, the flaps do indeed drop down. However...when I flip the switch to bring them back to neutral, a high pitched tone comes from the flap servos. THAT is what told me that there may be an issue with this way of operating flaps. But, as far as I know, this is the only way to trigger the flaps with everything else plugged in. I unplugged the rudder from the RX and tried the flaps on that port and nothing happened when I moved the stick.

I really do not want to fly this glider without flaps! So much bad can happen in those longglides onground effect(tree/fence/ who knows!). I felt certain that i would be able to have this function with my DX5e and now I just do not know...given the tone(of warning???) that it emits constantly(again with flaps in neutral position only). I cannot swing a DX6e OR the reciver with satelite(looking at a couple brands). My flying field is relatively small for a glider...but with aeleron control and flaps I feel better. I modded my Radian about a week after I got it with aelerons and it was worlds better. it was SO easy to do and made such a difference, that I was kinda miffed that it did not come that way stock

I saw the radian pro and the wing design, the addition of flaps especially made me know I had to have that! Now...I'm wondering if I am back at 'Square One'(or Square Two'?) in that I may have to get the DX6 and 6C RX in order to fly it. Your input is appreciated.

Alsocouple of beefs with the R-Pro)

1.)Exuse me if this has already been mentioned: But when you land the R-Pro and you inevitably drop one wing or the other...guess what the contact point with the ground is? THE AILERON HORN/rod/servo horn!!!! THAT'S CRAZY!! I am amazed that PZ let THAT slide by as 'good design' because it is NOT. As far as I know one of the best ways to break something is to make sure it is in a place where it will recieve direct and harsh contact. Exactly what the Ail servo assyis placed to encounter. Unbelievable. Once again...a simple fix that PZ skipped. The fix: I took some control rod and created a semi circular piece that inserts just behind the leading edge and just in front of the rear edge just before the aileron hinge point. The metal wire arcs downward from front to back and dips a bit lower than the cntrl rod/horn . So when either wing dips it will be the wire that contacts the ground and NOT the rod/horn. Because the section of rod is so short and bent in a semi circle, it becomes quite stiff but has a little bit of give. And, being control rod creates no drag to speak of. I will try to get some pix up(if posting pix here is easy...have not done it yet). I'm new to this forum so I don't think it will let me post links(to a youtube video).

2.) the y-harnesses(both)that came with my R-Pro had the three pins that are inside the female side, FLAT up against the inside wall of the tunnel! NONE of them could be attached to the servo wires until I took a pointed razor blade and bent EVERY(that is 12 pins)PIN to the center AND aligned them correctly so that all could be connected. it was still iffy, as it is pretty hard to get the spacing perfect. I managed to get it done and when I got all connected(two connections for Airlerons and two connections for flaps) one of the flap wire connectors would not stay together. it just fell apart with the slightest movement. So I used medical tape (seems fitting!)to tape that connection together. I have never had to do that with wires or y connectors before and I was not happy that BOTH harnesses wre screwed up in that way. Also...the flap wires are about 1' shorter than the aileron wires. There is no sensible reason for this as one needs slack on BOTH sets so you have some feed through room while the wing is still backed off a bit. it was easy to get hold of the Ail wires to putll them into the servo bay...but NOT so with the flap wires. That inch difference makes an appreciable difference. Actually, BOTH Ail and Flap wires should be longer as it would make it a non issue to remove and easily put back the wings when transporting. it was enough of a pain to get the flap wires into the servo bay...that I don' really want to have to take the wings off now! Once again...an easy adjustment/fic that PZ skipped. Beautiful plane and I look fwd to flying it. It just irks me that me, a guy who has been flying less than a year, can figure out this stuff and parkzone...obviously much more into planes and mfg...CANNOT. Kind of a frustrating first taste. I design and mfg equipment for my own trade and I DO think about and take action on such small but important things. I keep the end user in mind at all times and I just did NOT getthe feeling that PZ R-pro designers 'were thinking about me'from hooking up the electronics on this plane this morning. I am glad to assemble...I should NOT have to fix a plane in several ways...right out of the box. I bought a Radian and then I bought a Radian Pro. The R-Pro is a better plane in the air I am sure...but it is not better on the assy table. Not the one I bought.

I will be buying LONGER(and probably better) Y harnesses...so that taking the wings off will not just be 'barely possible' but also have a reasonable level of convenience also. I'm a returning customer to the Radian Family...and I did not feel real welcomed back for a while, this morning. Right now...this R-Prois like a beautiful girl with stinky feet. Not sure what I got into(??) but I hope it gets better. PZ needs to realise that I COULD HAVE taken the plane back to Hobby City for a refund(they special ordered it for me since they have not had any pnp's for months). Another person would have taken it back as 'defective'(y-harnesses mismanufactured). I'm good at pulling rabbits out of hats...but...come on PZ. it is not just defective y-harnesses...but a lack of thought in some simple ways otherwise...as described. I would not fly this plane as it came out of the box. I design/build highly accurate screen printing equipment sytems, not planes(aside from three foamies of my own design). TODAY...I had to be a plane REdesigner. I'd like to say my first impression was a better one.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

RCU Review of the RP
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1326