My easy glider should come today and wondering if you guys have any input on the set up.
I will probably be on slope with a good breeze 10/15 and gusty. Ballasting and how much ?
How and where did you add weight etc. ?
Actually I ordered the RR and the EZ as a backup for parts and/or 2nd plane.
Aloha, Les

Have at least 100 hours on the slope with EasyGlider. Although I flew my first plane from a slope 30 years ago I enjoy my EasyGlider on our small slopes with bad landing-conditions.
There is an easy way to add weight to it; just buy a threadened rod at 8mm. It did cost me appr 2 dollar in my local hardware-store. It weights 300 gram and suits perfect inside the carbon wing-joiner tube. Even the length vere perfect
I wrote a review on my first EG. Since it is not on your language only the pictures are interesting. Take a look at page 3 (Side 3) and check the last picture. It shows the rod and the wing-joiner. http://www.modellflynytt.no/articles.php?articleId=138

PS: remembered I put a small and poor qualit video on google, shoving a friend of mine testing his EG. He had just flown some few flights with gliders before I shot this film... [X(] : http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...layable%3Atrue

Hey Thanks,
That video is pretty neat, and similar to the area near my house. A small 1/2 bowl. And lots of wind.
Aloha, Les

I use smooth steel rod. Less damage to the fiberglass wing rod. A 1/4 inch rod the full lenght is about 9 ounces.

Thanks Ed,
Thats what I am using. It was about 4" too short so I cut a wood dowel abt 2'' long to center it up, which also allows me to achieve lateral balance. Hey Ed, I am setting up an EZGE and the manual for the ESC/BEC says I can only use 2 servos.

It, the BEC is rated @ 5V & current @ 1 amp, so I am wondering what kind of amperage these small little servos might draw.
Any idea?
Aloha, Les

According to Hitec, the HS-55 draws around 150 MAh when running. With 4 running that would be 600 mah. Add the power needed for the receiver and the ESC itself and you could be over the budget.

Note also that the load a BEC can handle also determined by the voltage of the motor pack. I have the Multiplex 27 amp brushless ESC with a 1.5 amp BEC. This is running with a 2 cell Lipo. Really climbs nicely.

Assuming you are using a 3 cell lipo or 8 cell Nickel, I would expect you would need at least a 1.5 amp BEC and 2 amp would be better. You might want to consider a different ESC. Sounds like that one is intended for 3 channel parkflyers.

Also, make sure you open up the air vent holes on the fuselage under the wings. They are molded in but are not open. YOu have to open them up or you cook the contents.

Well I am wondering why they put this package together with such an enimic ESC/BEC.

Did I mention that this is an EZ Glider Elect. RR Stock from the factory,.

I sort of wanted put some time on it before I started modifying it. I am wondering if anyone has flown the stock setup and what, if any problems.


Thanks, Les

You did not mention that this was the RR version. I would expect that you would be OK if that is the factory package.

You can always contact Hitec/multiplex customer service and ask.

www.hitecrcd.com click on support. They are excellent. Hitec own Multiplex.

Thanks Ed,
I pretty much agree, although I will give them a call. They are excellent on customer service. We need a Gold Star Thingy.
Thanks for your time and effort. It is much appreciated.
Aloha, Les

Hi All,

Not too long ago, I purchased an ARF Ez Glider and I figured that all I would need after the purchase was to use my own Tx and a 2 or 3 cell LiPo pack. Well, I ended up as a few others that are writing these threads. I should have known better and I should have read these threads before the purchase...well, maybe not, I was going to buy the EP glider anyway.

Without much thinking, I put the Ez together (not much to it) and found out that the motor would only run for 15 to 25 seconds. Like some of you, my MIND told me that because the Ez was purchased as an ARF, that the motor would RUN...! And so, again without much thinking, I started to troubleshoot the problem. For two days..., for two whole days I worked on the problem.

Finally, all of my brain neurons connected and I looked up the specifications of the stock X-16 ESC/BEC (by the way, the specs are in the Ez manual) and found out that the BEC of the X-16 would not have enough fuel to push 4 servos around.

And so, I'm going to replace the 400 can with a 480 can using the stock gearbox (an idea that I got from Bruce Stenulson's web site) and buy a Medusa Fuson 30 Amp ESC w/ a switching-regulator BEC for brushed motors. Cheap for a brushed ESC, it aint, but cheaper than a good brushless ESC, it is...! Well, live and learn the same again!

Ernie
Sailplane

I use a JETI JES 250 in my EG.. the kit, not the ARF.

I set mine up stock with a 9.6V 8c 1500mah pack. It gives about 4/5 good climbs. I did notice in the manual about the BEC allowing 1 amp for servo power,so I called Hitec and they assured me it would work " OK ". It seems to work ok. I have ordered another one ( EZGE RR ) and plan on the same setup. Hope it works as good as the other one .

"Sailplane" Maybe with the 2 cell lipo being a lower voltage the initial drop in volts ,takes it down to the cutoff area. Just a guess on my part as I am new to this E power.
Aloha, Les

Leslie,

I have tried one 3S lipo and Two 2S LiPo's and the same thing happens...the motor sags and stops after ~ 15 to @5 minutes. However, the control surfaces continue to work.

aeajr seens to think that since this is the case, that there is nothing wrong in using the 4 servos in the electrical system. He states that maybe the battery packs that I am using can not handle the amp draw of the motor.

The above is probably correct; earlier, I forgot to mention that before I even started to test the electrical system, I replaced the stock Sp 400 can with a Sp 480 can motor. This might have increased the problem. The EZ is new and has never flown. The Sp 480 motor is being used with the stock gearbox and stock MULTIcont X-16 ESC. I got this idea from Bruce Stenulson's web site. He has this set-up in his EZ up in Colorado. He has a great web site.

Thanks for your help and interest,
Ernie
"Sailplane" P.S. How are things in Hawaii? I was stationed there a long time ago as a member of the 25th Infantry Division. It's a great place!

Sail.
Just got back from maiden flt, and everything went fairly well. 8/10 good climbs looking for lift on 2 packs and still had some power left to land.
Stock all the way.
Aloha, Les

TIP #1 on the Easy Glider and gliders in general, move the CG back.

Once you have the plane flying well over a period of days start to move the CG back from the stock position. Normally the MFG recommendation is biased toward stability rather than optimum thermaling. This is not a bad thing, but it may reduce the plane's ability to read lift so that you can catch thermals.

How much? Can't say for sure. Over a period of many flights, try to set your battery further back, say 1/4" at a time. Now fly it for a bunch of flights. Are you having problems controlling the plane? If not, that CG good and you don't have to move the batery forward. But you might be able to move it back more.

Do this till the plane becomes hard to fly, then move it back the the previous position.

The goal is to make the nose lighter so that it can be more sensitive to warm rising air currents, lift, so you can see it better. Of course this assumes that you actually plan to thremal the plane.

TIP #2 - Be sure to open air holes

There are two air holes by the motor that are there for cooling. But if you don't open exit holes for the hot air, where is the heat to go? In fact, because hot air expands, you need 2X as much exit hole space as intake.

There are two air vents molded into the fuse, under the wings. Make sure those are WIDE open. If you fly the plane in a climb and glide fashion, they will be adequate. But if you tend to run wtih the motor on all the time they may not be enough. You may need more cooling. If your ESC/BEC get too hot, they can shut down cutting power to your receiver. If your battery gets too hot, it can be damaged.

Make sure you provide cooling air holes.

Les,

Good for you...keep that Ez going! I have been discussing my Ez's electrical system with aeajr; and at this time, his thinking is leaning toward a bad Sp 480 can motor.

My thinking for sticking with the 400 or 480 (I've always flown brushless) was the fact that I didn't want to perform major foam surgery on the nose of the Ez. I have several good brushless motors that will give good performances in combination with the Ez, so I think I will go with one of them and the needed surgery.

Please keep posting your experiences on your Ez's.

My thanks to you, aeajr and the rest of the guys that have helped me with matter,

Ernie
Sailplane

I (and others) have removed the large ball bearing just ahead of the vertical in the E-Glider to move the c.g. forward, after flying it.
The recommended c.g. is right at the edge of too far aft for good snap-free tight circling.