I'm getting discouraged
06-24-2003, 07:19 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
I took my Jok-Air out for its' maiden flight. C.G. checked and tow hook in proper placement. Rudder & elevator at 0 degrees. Pulled back 10 lbs on the Hi-Start and threw it like I was throwing a Javelin approximately 65 degrees into a 7 m.p.h. wind. It went up and to the left approximately 25 ft and straight into the ground. It appeared there wasn't even time to make a rudder adjustment. What did I do wrong? Do I have to be quick on the rudder? I thought it would climb effortlessly with minor inputs to the control system. Thanks for any assistance you can give.
Randall Elliott
Randall Elliott
06-24-2003, 07:48 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
First, make sure that there are no warps in the wing...a little washout may be desirable.
Also, when launching, try throwing the plane at the horizon and let it rotate into the climb by itself.
Also, when launching, try throwing the plane at the horizon and let it rotate into the climb by itself.
06-24-2003, 09:38 PM
#3
I'm getting discouraged
You could also move the tow hook ahead just a touch. Will give it a flatter straighter climb, but if you haven't launched before, you don't want it back that far. It can stall too easy. Sounds like that is what happened just from what you said, but can't tell for sure. Have you test thrown it at all? If you do that, don't throw it and have it do the same thing. I have seen a lot break them on a test throw. How is the CG?
06-24-2003, 10:57 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
My first suggestion is to find someone that has launched from a high start before as it really helps to see someone else do it before trying it yourself. But then there is a real thrill doing something without any experience !! So let me try some suggestions and see if we can't get your plane up.
Make sure there are no WARPS in the wing panels. The wings on a sailplane are so large that any wing warps have significance.
There should be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of WASHOUT under each wingtip to help reduce tip stalling. Your plans probably call for some washout.
Make sure the CG is REALLY correct. Don't allow any nose weight to roll around in the fuselage. Every piece of equipment and any weights should be secured in place.
The plane should be adjusted for a fairly good glide from a hand toss. You can launch into tallish grass to help ease the landing. Hand launch the plane level to the ground. Let it go when it is at flying speed or a little higher. Grab the stick immediately. Adjust the elevator and rudder until the plane performs well with a hand launch and you do not need much stick movement after releasing it. At this point you KNOW the plane is behaving.
Next make sure your towhook is in the EXACT place called for in the construction notes and plans. The hook is located relative to the CG. That is, if you change the CG shown on the plans and it flies well then you most likely will need to change the towhook position to obtain the best launches (but maybe NOT). Note on the plans that the towhook position is usually a little forward of the CG point. More forward is SAFER. More rearward is NOT SAFER. Once you get good at launching the plane and you have a good CG selected for flight then consider changing the tow hook if you feel that it is launching too shallow (not climbing well enough on the highstart).
Now move on to the highstart because we know the balance and surfaces are adjusted very close to correct.
Stake the highstart UPWIND. Walk the highstart DOWNWIND. You should always launch INTO the wind.
Make sure you have enough pull on the highstart so that you can launch the plane level to the ground and the highstart is actually having an influence (providing SOME pull). But launch it at flying speed or a little faster and STILL level to the ground. At this point if the plane starts to climb a little just work with it because you KNOW the plane has been adjusted to provide a good hand launch. The highstart is just acting as a little 'helper' at this point. Just work with that extra little pull provided by the highstart. You will get comfortable doing this because the threat level is LOW. You should not try to perform the 'perfect maximum' highstart launch until you get some experience with some rather low pressure launches. One rule is that once you let go of the plane you are committed. You have to ride it out. So move up gradually to harder highstart launches.
Once you see how the plane behaves during these 'mild', small test launches start moving back a little further back with the highstart on each launch. At some point you can start introducing a little more 'nose up' when you let go and see if the plane handles well as it goes up. AGAIN make sure you get the plane to flying speed or a little higher before you let go of it. If the plane wants to 'swerve' back and forth (left and right) on the highstart then this means you might have the towhook TOO FAR BACK and you will have to FIGHT with it as it goes up. This is a sign that something is not right. When you have everything right then the plane will only need a little guidance as it goes up. This means the towhook is not too far back and is not too far forward. If you conclude it appears to be too far back because it is 'squirrelly' on the highstart then stop what you are doing and move the towhook forward about an eighth to a quarter inch and start testing with the highstart again. If the towhook is too far FORWARD it is safer but the launches are not very spectacular (the plane will just stay rather low rather than climb at about 45 degrees). If the towhook is too far forward and you want to move it back then do so a little bit at a time because you are heading toward the 'more risky zone'.
When you get to the point where you 'throw' it up Olympic javelin style and it tracks well, right into the wind and you do not have to make many corrections during the climb then you are going to just KNOW it is right. It will FEEL right and LOOK right.
I hope you can post again after trying all the suggestions you will get and let us know how things progressed. The odd part is that after you get some experience with the highstart it will SEEM so simple. But there IS a learning curve.
If when you launch the plane and it is NOT at flying speed or there is a wing warp or the towhook is too far BACK the plane will usually turn in one direction and try to complete a circle, driving the nose right into the ground. Most of the time moving the controls will have NO effect at all. You can only WATCH and be impressed with how quickly and how hard it hits the ground. Usually the only word spoken is 'wow!'.
Make sure there are no WARPS in the wing panels. The wings on a sailplane are so large that any wing warps have significance.
There should be about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of WASHOUT under each wingtip to help reduce tip stalling. Your plans probably call for some washout.
Make sure the CG is REALLY correct. Don't allow any nose weight to roll around in the fuselage. Every piece of equipment and any weights should be secured in place.
The plane should be adjusted for a fairly good glide from a hand toss. You can launch into tallish grass to help ease the landing. Hand launch the plane level to the ground. Let it go when it is at flying speed or a little higher. Grab the stick immediately. Adjust the elevator and rudder until the plane performs well with a hand launch and you do not need much stick movement after releasing it. At this point you KNOW the plane is behaving.
Next make sure your towhook is in the EXACT place called for in the construction notes and plans. The hook is located relative to the CG. That is, if you change the CG shown on the plans and it flies well then you most likely will need to change the towhook position to obtain the best launches (but maybe NOT). Note on the plans that the towhook position is usually a little forward of the CG point. More forward is SAFER. More rearward is NOT SAFER. Once you get good at launching the plane and you have a good CG selected for flight then consider changing the tow hook if you feel that it is launching too shallow (not climbing well enough on the highstart).
Now move on to the highstart because we know the balance and surfaces are adjusted very close to correct.
Stake the highstart UPWIND. Walk the highstart DOWNWIND. You should always launch INTO the wind.
Make sure you have enough pull on the highstart so that you can launch the plane level to the ground and the highstart is actually having an influence (providing SOME pull). But launch it at flying speed or a little faster and STILL level to the ground. At this point if the plane starts to climb a little just work with it because you KNOW the plane has been adjusted to provide a good hand launch. The highstart is just acting as a little 'helper' at this point. Just work with that extra little pull provided by the highstart. You will get comfortable doing this because the threat level is LOW. You should not try to perform the 'perfect maximum' highstart launch until you get some experience with some rather low pressure launches. One rule is that once you let go of the plane you are committed. You have to ride it out. So move up gradually to harder highstart launches.
Once you see how the plane behaves during these 'mild', small test launches start moving back a little further back with the highstart on each launch. At some point you can start introducing a little more 'nose up' when you let go and see if the plane handles well as it goes up. AGAIN make sure you get the plane to flying speed or a little higher before you let go of it. If the plane wants to 'swerve' back and forth (left and right) on the highstart then this means you might have the towhook TOO FAR BACK and you will have to FIGHT with it as it goes up. This is a sign that something is not right. When you have everything right then the plane will only need a little guidance as it goes up. This means the towhook is not too far back and is not too far forward. If you conclude it appears to be too far back because it is 'squirrelly' on the highstart then stop what you are doing and move the towhook forward about an eighth to a quarter inch and start testing with the highstart again. If the towhook is too far FORWARD it is safer but the launches are not very spectacular (the plane will just stay rather low rather than climb at about 45 degrees). If the towhook is too far forward and you want to move it back then do so a little bit at a time because you are heading toward the 'more risky zone'.
When you get to the point where you 'throw' it up Olympic javelin style and it tracks well, right into the wind and you do not have to make many corrections during the climb then you are going to just KNOW it is right. It will FEEL right and LOOK right.
I hope you can post again after trying all the suggestions you will get and let us know how things progressed. The odd part is that after you get some experience with the highstart it will SEEM so simple. But there IS a learning curve.
If when you launch the plane and it is NOT at flying speed or there is a wing warp or the towhook is too far BACK the plane will usually turn in one direction and try to complete a circle, driving the nose right into the ground. Most of the time moving the controls will have NO effect at all. You can only WATCH and be impressed with how quickly and how hard it hits the ground. Usually the only word spoken is 'wow!'.
06-25-2003, 12:06 AM
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Don't throw it ...release it.
Ellio:
Don't despair, it sounds like you are paying attention to the right things.
The previous posters all gave very good advice.
Warp/Washout:
My first glider (an Olympic 650) flew great one season - lousy the begining of the next.I put each wing panel on a flat surface and found the wing tips had warped and gotten an uneven washout. A heat iron fixed that right away.Back in business.
Hand Toss-Test glide:
Better to find a problem at a slow speed close to the ground (Yes - over tall grass if possible) than moving at a fast clip going straight up.
Hold the glider level and run - and when the wing begins to lift (yes you'll feel it) release it with a GENTLE shove forward. Observe, note and correct any errant behaviour.
CG/Tow Hook:
Just like they said.
If necessary, a tow hook and/or a CG that is located a bit forward of recommended is much easier to deal with while learning. A rearward tow hook position or CG location are for optimizing launch height and/or enhancing glide performance/thermaling and not a concern for anyone but those trying to get competition performance out of a sailplane.The more the towhook is moved to the rear - the more squirely it gets on launch, requiring you to be all the more proficient at launching, until it won't launch well at all.
(Rather than mess around with all that I would focus on some simple dive tests AFTER you get flying and learning how to use elevator trim settings for best minimum sink and best L/D while thermal hunting).But that's all stuff for later.
Hi-Start Launching:
I'm not familiar with your particular model glider butI think the principle is the same.
I've always thought that watching an experienced sailplane pilot launching a model was better than reading ANY "how to" textbook.
(In fact - once I learned how to do it - I thought what I had read was wrong).
You don't need to throw it like a javelin at an up angle (I never did after I learned proper).
Here's why.....
In ten years or so of launching sailplanes off Hi-Starts and 12V winches I only had two bad things happen**.
Once - my wing hold-down bolt had gotten loose over time and one day the glider fuselage and wing w/bolt went seperate ways.
(Always check wing retention, those nylon bolts need periodic inspection).
The other incident is more like what you described.
I had been out of practice for awhile after repairing a nice 2M glider after a crash.
I busted my butt getting it repaired as good as new, went out the neext day and hooked it up on a Hi-Start - and promptly "threw" the thing into a stall.
(At least that's what my sailplane buddy told me I did....)
Up and over ....and right into the ground!
You better believe I was upset.
After that hard learned lesson I never imparted any more energy than needed to get it headed in the right direction, and never pointed it at an up angle.
Heres' what worked:
Once hooked up, hold the plane pretty flat but WITH WINGS LEVEL -(slightly nose up if the pull is hard)....holding the plane in my right hand, transmitter in my left, I'd give the rudder a wag with my left thumb on the the rudder stick to be sure your transmitter (and more importantly your receiver is ON*) - let go!
The Hi-Start or winch does the rest.
You'll be surprised how really simple it is.
The Hi-Start will rotate the glider/sailplane for you on it's way up, without having to "throw it upwards" at an angle.
Calmly get on the rudder stick straight away, just so you can quickly tap in a little left or right (if needed) to keep it on a straight course.
On a Hi-Start the sailplane will depart faster at the begining and tend to slow slightly near the apex as the energy stored in the tubing is depleted - so fortunately the last part of the trip up is very relaxing.
(With a winch you control the speed all the way up with the foot switch so you need to watch wing flex and lighten up as needed - Zoom launching is a winch technique only for stronger planes.
Good Luck.
Keep at it.
It's a great hobby.
________________________________________________
** Well, maybe one or two other things - but that's an entirely different story.
Don't despair, it sounds like you are paying attention to the right things.
The previous posters all gave very good advice.
Warp/Washout:
My first glider (an Olympic 650) flew great one season - lousy the begining of the next.I put each wing panel on a flat surface and found the wing tips had warped and gotten an uneven washout. A heat iron fixed that right away.Back in business.
Hand Toss-Test glide:
Better to find a problem at a slow speed close to the ground (Yes - over tall grass if possible) than moving at a fast clip going straight up.
Hold the glider level and run - and when the wing begins to lift (yes you'll feel it) release it with a GENTLE shove forward. Observe, note and correct any errant behaviour.
CG/Tow Hook:
Just like they said.
If necessary, a tow hook and/or a CG that is located a bit forward of recommended is much easier to deal with while learning. A rearward tow hook position or CG location are for optimizing launch height and/or enhancing glide performance/thermaling and not a concern for anyone but those trying to get competition performance out of a sailplane.The more the towhook is moved to the rear - the more squirely it gets on launch, requiring you to be all the more proficient at launching, until it won't launch well at all.
(Rather than mess around with all that I would focus on some simple dive tests AFTER you get flying and learning how to use elevator trim settings for best minimum sink and best L/D while thermal hunting).But that's all stuff for later.
Hi-Start Launching:
I'm not familiar with your particular model glider butI think the principle is the same.
I've always thought that watching an experienced sailplane pilot launching a model was better than reading ANY "how to" textbook.
(In fact - once I learned how to do it - I thought what I had read was wrong).
You don't need to throw it like a javelin at an up angle (I never did after I learned proper).
Here's why.....
In ten years or so of launching sailplanes off Hi-Starts and 12V winches I only had two bad things happen**.
Once - my wing hold-down bolt had gotten loose over time and one day the glider fuselage and wing w/bolt went seperate ways.
(Always check wing retention, those nylon bolts need periodic inspection).
The other incident is more like what you described.
I had been out of practice for awhile after repairing a nice 2M glider after a crash.
I busted my butt getting it repaired as good as new, went out the neext day and hooked it up on a Hi-Start - and promptly "threw" the thing into a stall.
(At least that's what my sailplane buddy told me I did....)
Up and over ....and right into the ground!
You better believe I was upset.
After that hard learned lesson I never imparted any more energy than needed to get it headed in the right direction, and never pointed it at an up angle.
Heres' what worked:
Once hooked up, hold the plane pretty flat but WITH WINGS LEVEL -(slightly nose up if the pull is hard)....holding the plane in my right hand, transmitter in my left, I'd give the rudder a wag with my left thumb on the the rudder stick to be sure your transmitter (and more importantly your receiver is ON*) - let go!
The Hi-Start or winch does the rest.
You'll be surprised how really simple it is.
The Hi-Start will rotate the glider/sailplane for you on it's way up, without having to "throw it upwards" at an angle.
Calmly get on the rudder stick straight away, just so you can quickly tap in a little left or right (if needed) to keep it on a straight course.
On a Hi-Start the sailplane will depart faster at the begining and tend to slow slightly near the apex as the energy stored in the tubing is depleted - so fortunately the last part of the trip up is very relaxing.
(With a winch you control the speed all the way up with the foot switch so you need to watch wing flex and lighten up as needed - Zoom launching is a winch technique only for stronger planes.
Good Luck.
Keep at it.
It's a great hobby.
________________________________________________
** Well, maybe one or two other things - but that's an entirely different story.
06-25-2003, 02:32 AM
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I'm getting discouraged
Is it this one?
http://www.nesail.com/jokair.html
If so then all the advice about warps isn't going to do you much good...
At first when I saw that you pulled it back to about 10 pounds pull I thought "there's his problem. That's no where near enough". But if you're flying this nylon winged model then 10 pounds of pull is WAY too much. You probably had so much pull that it flexed the wing into a distorted mess and that's what caused it to crash.
I often fly my 12 oz handlaunch glider with a micro high start made using a single 10 foot loop of 1/4 inch flat rubber left over from one of my old rubber models. At launch time I have maybe 2 pounds of pull and it goes up like a rocket. You may want to try looking into something similar.
I'd find some 1/8 surgical tubing from a fishing store and get about 20 feet of it. To that add about 100 feet of 20 lb test monofilament and a 6 inch square flag at the launch ring end. A long screwdriver for a stake and you're done. That should handle your Jok'air in fine style. Or you could get the same sort of rubber flat strip from FAI model supply and copy what I did. I'd suggest the 1/2 lb of 1/4 inch strip. That way you can start with a single loop and if it isn't enough add a third strand and that should do the trick. Here's the link...
http://www.faimodelsupply.com/fai-sport.htm
Good luck.
http://www.nesail.com/jokair.html
If so then all the advice about warps isn't going to do you much good...
At first when I saw that you pulled it back to about 10 pounds pull I thought "there's his problem. That's no where near enough". But if you're flying this nylon winged model then 10 pounds of pull is WAY too much. You probably had so much pull that it flexed the wing into a distorted mess and that's what caused it to crash.
I often fly my 12 oz handlaunch glider with a micro high start made using a single 10 foot loop of 1/4 inch flat rubber left over from one of my old rubber models. At launch time I have maybe 2 pounds of pull and it goes up like a rocket. You may want to try looking into something similar.
I'd find some 1/8 surgical tubing from a fishing store and get about 20 feet of it. To that add about 100 feet of 20 lb test monofilament and a 6 inch square flag at the launch ring end. A long screwdriver for a stake and you're done. That should handle your Jok'air in fine style. Or you could get the same sort of rubber flat strip from FAI model supply and copy what I did. I'd suggest the 1/2 lb of 1/4 inch strip. That way you can start with a single loop and if it isn't enough add a third strand and that should do the trick. Here's the link...
http://www.faimodelsupply.com/fai-sport.htm
Good luck.
06-25-2003, 02:52 AM
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I'm getting discouraged
Years and I do mean years ago like in the 50's and 60's (sorry guys and gals) we used to put three hooks (non retractable) center one on CG one aft and forward. Not only did you see the changes but conditions (wind) gave you different responses...
06-25-2003, 03:47 AM
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I'm getting discouraged
Originally posted by BMatthews
Is it this one?
http://www.nesail.com/jokair.html
If so then all the advice about warps isn't going to do you much good...
Good luck.
Is it this one?
http://www.nesail.com/jokair.html
If so then all the advice about warps isn't going to do you much good...
Good luck.
Neat looking model, kinda looks like an ornithopter, sans the "opter" part
Mr. Matthews advice is dead on.....
06-25-2003, 01:04 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
Ditto re: Mr. Matthews. Ten pounds pull on an 18 oz "hlg" is WAY overpowered.
My rule of thumb for highstarts is to launch with a pull of 3-5 times the weight of the sailplane. The lower value for "weak winged" planes like a stock GL or Windfree, the higher (and above) value for winchable sailplanes, and adjust for wind conditions.
I use a simple fish scale to see where x-pounds of pull stretches to; at that value, I leave a marker on the ground and pull the highstart to that point to get consistent launches.
Good advice from all on launching!
My rule of thumb for highstarts is to launch with a pull of 3-5 times the weight of the sailplane. The lower value for "weak winged" planes like a stock GL or Windfree, the higher (and above) value for winchable sailplanes, and adjust for wind conditions.
I use a simple fish scale to see where x-pounds of pull stretches to; at that value, I leave a marker on the ground and pull the highstart to that point to get consistent launches.
Good advice from all on launching!
06-25-2003, 02:59 PM
#10
I'm getting discouraged
Geez, I am surprized you didn't rip the wing off. As stated, way too much pull. Start on your second glider now so you have a backup. Look at maybe a Gentle lady kit. That will work much better on a histart. Easy to build and fly. You can build it in a few weeks as a first plane. I built one in an evening once when I flew on the NW glider circut and flew it for years. never placed less than third with it.
06-25-2003, 03:10 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
Thank you to everyone who responded to my post. I have learned something from each of you and feel confident that my next launch will be a success. One last question. I already have a Pinnacle Hi-Start, although I'm sure it is way over powered. Can I launch my plane with three pounds of pull on my Hi-Start or should I wait and purchase/build a smaller one. Thanks.
06-25-2003, 03:18 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
Oh boy ... my post pertained to a 'standard type' sailplane. If you obtain one of the standard designs my post would apply. But I think in this case ==> ignore my entire post
06-25-2003, 03:47 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
Originally posted by ellio
....I already have a Pinnacle Hi-Start, although I'm sure it is way over powered. Can I launch my plane with three pounds of pull on my Hi-Start or should I wait and purchase/build a smaller one. Thanks.
....I already have a Pinnacle Hi-Start, although I'm sure it is way over powered. Can I launch my plane with three pounds of pull on my Hi-Start or should I wait and purchase/build a smaller one. Thanks.
Save the Pinnacle for a proper 2 meter or larger model.
06-25-2003, 07:38 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
If I missed this in the above advice - forgive me, but I believe it bears repeating.
#1 CHECK YOUR RADIO before you launch - EVERY TIME !! WATCH you control surfaces move - don't jsut rely on hearing a servo hum as you moce the sticks.
There is no feeling like watching your pride and joy do a rainbow flop or just free flight like a madman while you franticaly bang the TX sticks around in a futile attempt to guide the plane. I have done this once - and the Glider Gods took care of me. Have fun
Fly'em high
JimNM
#1 CHECK YOUR RADIO before you launch - EVERY TIME !! WATCH you control surfaces move - don't jsut rely on hearing a servo hum as you moce the sticks.
There is no feeling like watching your pride and joy do a rainbow flop or just free flight like a madman while you franticaly bang the TX sticks around in a futile attempt to guide the plane. I have done this once - and the Glider Gods took care of me. Have fun
Fly'em high
JimNM
06-25-2003, 10:22 PM
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So True!
My very first glider flight, my instructor winch launched it for me.
Then came the dreaded words...."I don't have it!"
(He did a beautiful winch launch w/o turning on the rx - boy was he embarrased).
I of course was listening to the "voice of experience" and should've intervened.
That sailplane was well built and trimmed and stable, flew beutifully until it settled in a sixty foot tree.
The rest of the day was spent expending a box of 22 cal ammo, shooting off tree branches.
It worked.
Only one bullet hole and minor monokote repair.
What an outing!
Freeflight and target shooting.
What fun.
Then came the dreaded words...."I don't have it!"
(He did a beautiful winch launch w/o turning on the rx - boy was he embarrased).
I of course was listening to the "voice of experience" and should've intervened.
That sailplane was well built and trimmed and stable, flew beutifully until it settled in a sixty foot tree.
The rest of the day was spent expending a box of 22 cal ammo, shooting off tree branches.
It worked.
Only one bullet hole and minor monokote repair.
What an outing!
Freeflight and target shooting.
What fun.
06-26-2003, 01:42 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
A NE Sailpaines "joke-air" and a NES Pinnacle highstart? I hope that Sal didn't sell you that combination (not Sal-bashing, just an observation).
I use a light highstart on slope sites sometimes to pop my Zagi THL up into the lift band.
Skybench sells mini-highstart for light "hlgs": http://www.skybench.com and look under histarts.
--Bill
I use a light highstart on slope sites sometimes to pop my Zagi THL up into the lift band.
Skybench sells mini-highstart for light "hlgs": http://www.skybench.com and look under histarts.
--Bill
06-26-2003, 02:45 PM
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I'm getting discouraged
You may want to consider just looping a bunch of #64 rubber bands together to form a cheapo high-start of about the right pull. I did this about 5 years ago so I could fly my HLG's in the winter, and it worked fine. Kind of labour intensive, but find a good movie and have at it. Remember to add string at a ratio of about 3.5:1.
Oh, and whatever you do...don't just release the sailplane like was suggested earlier! That's a recipe for absolute disaster if the model is anything approaching a performance model. That starts the model out with 0 airspeed, and BEGS for a tipstall. Give it a firm, level shove (like a test-glide), and you'll have no problems. Unless you really know what you're doing, don't toss it upwards at any real angle.
Good luck!
Oh, and whatever you do...don't just release the sailplane like was suggested earlier! That's a recipe for absolute disaster if the model is anything approaching a performance model. That starts the model out with 0 airspeed, and BEGS for a tipstall. Give it a firm, level shove (like a test-glide), and you'll have no problems. Unless you really know what you're doing, don't toss it upwards at any real angle.
Good luck!
06-26-2003, 05:00 PM
#19
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Jurrasic Park, TX,
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I'm getting discouraged
There is one element that I did not see mentioned.
The lenght that the launch hook is extended below the fuse will have an effect on the relationship of the hook to C/G.
The farther the hook extends from the fuse will effectively move the angle of attack (for lack of a more discriptive term) rearward.
I have had this realization brought home to me by loosing a couple of my early planes. They did exactly like yours, the second one went a little higher before returning and hit harder as well.
Just some food for thought when making your own hook or installing the threaded bent rod type, make them as close to the fuse as you can to still work correctly and then move them out for some ajustment if needed.
The lenght that the launch hook is extended below the fuse will have an effect on the relationship of the hook to C/G.
The farther the hook extends from the fuse will effectively move the angle of attack (for lack of a more discriptive term) rearward.
I have had this realization brought home to me by loosing a couple of my early planes. They did exactly like yours, the second one went a little higher before returning and hit harder as well.
Just some food for thought when making your own hook or installing the threaded bent rod type, make them as close to the fuse as you can to still work correctly and then move them out for some ajustment if needed.
