Thrasherg

I realise that this is going to seem like a dumb question, but I am teaching myself (no-one else around to help) so I have to ask here!!

I have been learning to fly my helicopter by starting the engine and then slowly raising the throttle until the blades start to spin and then gently increasing the throttle until the heli is ready to leave the ground.
I just purchased a copy of G2 realflight simulator and find that if i flick the idle up switch to the on position, the engine revs up quite quickly and stays at high revs and the helicopter seems to be easier to take off.
My question is "what is the correct procedure?" to take off, should I be using the idle-up like this (I understood idle-up was for acrobatic flight not normal flight) and how do you correctly set the idle up speed?

I have read many articles on learning to fly heli's but not one of them specifically mentions if I should be using the idle-up or just the throttle to get the main blades spinning up.

Thanks for your help..

Gary

PS I can keep my heli hovering in a square about 4 meters square (12 feet square), but on G2 I can't control it at all!! Seems I have a lot more practice to do..

sandal

I have a Hirobo Sceadu 30/OS 32SX-H. This is probably more info than you are looking for, but I thought I'd just as well write "the whole story"...:

My settings:
NOR: -4.5 to +8 degrees pitch. Throttle linear from 0 to 100%
IDLE-UP 1: -4.5 to +8, Throttle curve 60-40-50-70-100
IDLE-UP 2: -8 to +8, Throttle curve 100-70-50-70-100
THROTTLE HOLD: -4.5 to +10

In NOR mode I let the rotor spool up slowly by moving the collective stick slowly forward. It hovers at around 2/3 stick. I use NOR for takeoffs, landings and hovering practice.

I use IDLE-UP 1 for forward flight and "aerobatics" that don't require much negative pitch, like stall turns and rolls. I have tried to set the throttle curve to keep rpms constant regardless of collective stick position. The extra throttle added at low stick makes it possible to descend faster and to use negative pitch without losing head speed. I find it particularly useful when I come in fast and hit the "brakes" (nose up and neg. collective to slow the heli without gaining altitude)

IDLE-UP 2 is mainly for aerobatics that require a "symmetrical pitch response". Flips, inverted flight etc. I'm not there yet. I can do simple flips and loop/roll, but that's it. This flight mode has higher rotor speed, which makes the heli more sensitive and gives you more control authority.

Many people choose to use only one IDLE-UP (which will be like my IDLE-UP 2). Thus NOR will be for takeoff, landing and hovering, and IDLE-UP will be for everything else (except autorotations)

Setting the head speed is another story. If you have someone there to help you, you can fly the heli while the other person measures rpm (with the REMOTE tach). This can be dangerous if you do it alone. For a .30 heli, I'd recommend NOR 1500, IDLE-UP 1 1650 and IDLE-UP 2 1800 as a starting point, but this will vary depending on heli, blades, flying style etc. A governor is probably the easiest way to do it. You program the head speed and let the governor control the throttle servo.

Hope this helps [:-]

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

I set mine up and use it as soon as I lift. I get a few feet high, hit idle up. Set the speed so you don't over speed the blades descending and hovering. You have to have a tach, someone to run it and set the throttle curve appropriate. I use idle up for all my flying. Just feels better and you don't loose rotor rpm in descents.

RotorNut

Quick tip,,NEVER use idle up to spool up your blades. If you ever noticed when your spooling up your heli will shake kinda hard until the speed is up. That's because your blades are not in perfect alignment (blade sweep) till you create enough centrifugal force. So 2 things can happen if you use idle up for spool up, 1. When you hit idle up the motor will jump rpm really quick the sudden jolt can cause the rotor head to move but not the blades, then your blade is at the back of the grip and when it comes around to the tail boom it could strike. 2. The heli could also shake so bad it can tip over. The correct way to spool up is in normal mode. Give enough throttle to get the clutch to engage kinda quick (this prevents clutch lining wear) then slowly add throttle till you see the heli stop shaking (so your blades are swept into flight position) then you can give throttle more quickly. If you want to be in idle up before lift off get your blades up to speed then when you have the stick at the 0 degree pitch point (of idle up) switch into idle up.

siclick33

Flyboy,

Why do you use Idle up for this? why don't you just set the normal curve up how you like it? This will save you having to flip the switch every time.

ThrasherG

I would spend some time getting your heli set up how you want it. Idle Up is not necessary until you start flying more advanced aeros. I fly mine almost exclusively in normal mode and it will loop and 'stall turn' just fine. Once you start rolling then you need to set up your Idle up curves. If you find it sluggish to get into the hover then you need to get a tach and check your headspeed.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

I don't have a problem flipping the switch, then I know I am ready for anything. Once I am airborn, I flip it. That way if I am flying around, I can do 3D stuff anytime without thinking about it. I figure, once its off the skids, I want it to be in 3d mode, then just before I set it down, I turn it off.

Just the way I have always done it.