Where to mount ESC, Receiver and Gyro?
04-06-2005, 11:13 PM
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Where to mount ESC, Receiver and Gyro?
Hi Guys
I have a brand new Hummingbird Elite 3D Pro
and it's not shown in the manual where to put the ESC, the gyro or the receiver. It has a little platform out the front which could take 2 of those (1 above and 1 below) but I don't know which 2 or where to put the third.
I know electrical interference to the Rx from the ESC should be considered but still no firm answer about positions for these 3.
Also they call the motor controller a "Brushless Electric Controller" or BEC in the manual but elsewhere in this forum I see someone says that's a "Battery Eliminator". This also has a power supply output for the receiver so I guess it's academic. It definitely is the motor controller so I guess I should be referring to it as the "ESC". ???
Any advice would be appreciated?
Cheers from New Zealand
I have a brand new Hummingbird Elite 3D Pro
and it's not shown in the manual where to put the ESC, the gyro or the receiver. It has a little platform out the front which could take 2 of those (1 above and 1 below) but I don't know which 2 or where to put the third.I know electrical interference to the Rx from the ESC should be considered but still no firm answer about positions for these 3.
Also they call the motor controller a "Brushless Electric Controller" or BEC in the manual but elsewhere in this forum I see someone says that's a "Battery Eliminator". This also has a power supply output for the receiver so I guess it's academic. It definitely is the motor controller so I guess I should be referring to it as the "ESC". ???
Any advice would be appreciated?
Cheers from New Zealand
04-07-2005, 07:23 AM
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RE: Where to mount ESC, Receiver and Gyro?
warren,
"BEC" normally stands for "Battery Eliminator Circuit", but have never heard of it meaning "Brushless Electric Controller". (a speed controller for a brushless motor would still be called an "ESC", or "Brushless ESC" to be more specific) A BEC reduces the battery pack voltage from the 7.4, 8.4, 11.1, or whatever you happen to be using, to the 4.5 volts needed by a receiver. This allows a single battery pack to power both the higher voltage motor and the lower voltage receiver. Without the BEC circuit, you would need a 2nd separate 4.5 volt pack for the receiver. (The servos also operate from the receivers 4.5 volt supply)
"ESC" stands for "Electronic Speed Control" and is, to an electric powered model, what a throttle servo is to a gas or nitro model. Most all of them have the "BEC and ESC" combined on a singe circuit board. (When you buy an ESC, the BEC circuitry usually comes built in.)
The "Mixer", in the case of a two-motor heli, (tail and main), mixes the ratio of tail rotor power to main rotor power to to counteract the main rotor torque and keep the model from spinning in one direction or the other. (If you have a single motor heli, such as a corona, there is no Mixer since the tail rotor is driven from the main rotor and controlled by changing the tail rotor pitch, which is done by a servo.)
The "gyro" further enhances the mixer function and attempts to hold the nose from any sudden "un-intended left-right" attitude changes.
To hold down cost, a good many of the micro heli's include the "BEC, ESC, mixer, and Gyro" on one circuit board, sometimes called a "3-1" or simply a "controller", but sometimes they are separate units in the more expensive ones. This isn't done with larger motors because of the size and heat considerations.
On my small electric models, I've never encountered any interference problems to the receiver from the ESC. (On my heli, they are mounted back to back to each other), but your "mileage may vary".
Don't know how big your 3 separate units are, but the top of the little shelf is usually large enough to handle at least the receiver and "controller" with a little bit hanging over the sides and maybe the third unit at the very rear of the frame. If you have a choice, and can mount the ESC back there, in the rotor-wash, it will run cooler and last longer. (GWS recommends it be done that way in the manual that comes with their PHA-01 3-in-1 controller).
Rick
"BEC" normally stands for "Battery Eliminator Circuit", but have never heard of it meaning "Brushless Electric Controller". (a speed controller for a brushless motor would still be called an "ESC", or "Brushless ESC" to be more specific) A BEC reduces the battery pack voltage from the 7.4, 8.4, 11.1, or whatever you happen to be using, to the 4.5 volts needed by a receiver. This allows a single battery pack to power both the higher voltage motor and the lower voltage receiver. Without the BEC circuit, you would need a 2nd separate 4.5 volt pack for the receiver. (The servos also operate from the receivers 4.5 volt supply)
"ESC" stands for "Electronic Speed Control" and is, to an electric powered model, what a throttle servo is to a gas or nitro model. Most all of them have the "BEC and ESC" combined on a singe circuit board. (When you buy an ESC, the BEC circuitry usually comes built in.)
The "Mixer", in the case of a two-motor heli, (tail and main), mixes the ratio of tail rotor power to main rotor power to to counteract the main rotor torque and keep the model from spinning in one direction or the other. (If you have a single motor heli, such as a corona, there is no Mixer since the tail rotor is driven from the main rotor and controlled by changing the tail rotor pitch, which is done by a servo.)
The "gyro" further enhances the mixer function and attempts to hold the nose from any sudden "un-intended left-right" attitude changes.
To hold down cost, a good many of the micro heli's include the "BEC, ESC, mixer, and Gyro" on one circuit board, sometimes called a "3-1" or simply a "controller", but sometimes they are separate units in the more expensive ones. This isn't done with larger motors because of the size and heat considerations.
On my small electric models, I've never encountered any interference problems to the receiver from the ESC. (On my heli, they are mounted back to back to each other), but your "mileage may vary".
Don't know how big your 3 separate units are, but the top of the little shelf is usually large enough to handle at least the receiver and "controller" with a little bit hanging over the sides and maybe the third unit at the very rear of the frame. If you have a choice, and can mount the ESC back there, in the rotor-wash, it will run cooler and last longer. (GWS recommends it be done that way in the manual that comes with their PHA-01 3-in-1 controller).
Rick
