Falconeer

Hi people,

I did something really stupid today. Got my thumb bleeding as well! I was trying to start the Caliber 30 I have and somehow the thrust was reversed in the Tx. As soon as I pressed the starter button, the motor fired and the rotors started spinning. I pulled out the fuel line. The stupid thing was I tried again a couple of times till I got hurt and came home. Now, I have figured out why that was happenning when I checked the Tx... Anyways, here is the problem now... I think my clutch is stuck, cause it does not let the rotor blades rotate freely.

Please help me figure out if there is something else in there that is wrong other than the clutch?

Thanks,

Falconeer.

Falconeer

ummmm, one more thing... the really stupid part... I was hot starting it with the Helicopter electronics turned off... yes, the Rx was OFF and the fuel was fully open to the engine!

I hope there are others who have done this or worse! Would make me feel better!

...

Gorgok

Yeah im sure there are others who have started at full throttle before... I know i check at least 5 times that: my Normal mode is on, throttle is at low stick, and throttle hold is on. Haven't messed up yet!

I would pull the engine out of the heli, take the fan/clutch apart and check the lining. Its going to be either the lining of the clutch itself... And starting at full throttle could have caused it.

Falconeer

Thanks Gorgok,

I will just buy the new clutch bell tomorrow. I think it will not be too expensive bieng a plastic part. I do not want to go through the whole process of putting a new lining. I was reading and the whole thing with special glue and all, which won't be easily available here, I think I will just replace it.

Thanks again,

Falconeer.

Lowenzahn

Yeah you have to take it apart and re-install it, that has happend to me before too (clutch getting stuck).

Dan

carlyle

if your clutch is sticking, it could be because your clutch is broke. if a clutch breaks a shoe off, it will bind in the clutch liner/clutch. it happened to me once.

RCer22

If it's sticking like you say it is then chances are the clutch is shot also. I would change them both to be sure.

Falconeer

Thanks carlyle and RCer22,

I finally got it off. The clutch bell was melted to the point where I have to replace it. I cannot grind plastic! Anyways, its really cheap here AED 40 ($10) for the clutch bell with the lining! No taxes!!!!

I lost the fan too, that was the same price. The starter shaft grip that goes in the fan was fine, but its an expensive part ($20 almost here).

The clutch shoe had expanded so I thought about not hammering it, just in case I give it some cracks. So I used a wise grip to compress it a bit till the clutch bell fit easily giving it room not to engage at too low rpm. I think both the shoes are almost the same distance from the centre. DID I DO THIS FINE? OR SHOULD I REPLACE THE CLUTCH SHOE????


Thanks all!

RCer22

Replace the clutch shoes also. They have been over stressed and will break anyway.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Once a clutch is sprung like that its pretty much shot, it may work for a flight or 2 but it will be dragging at idle in short order.

Falconeer

Thanks Guys... Guess will have to go to the store again tomorrow... [&o] That clutch is not easy to open. I will just leave the Heli with the service department there to do it.

Thanks though.

Falconeer.

Falconeer

Barracuda, one quick question... I compressed the clutch using wisegrip pilers. It looks okay now. Should I still replace it? or see what happens by rinning this one tomorrow? I really cannot affor another clutch for a month atleast. poured too much into the Heli this month

Thanks,

Falconeer.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

You can try it but like I said, once they are sprung they are usually shot. When you try to compress them back you can get stress cracks at the pivot point and risk throwing a clutch shoe in flight.

RCer22

I think almost everyone has tried to use an overstressed clutch at one time or another. Some of us have learned the hard way by having it break and while it was bouncing around in the bell it just happens to take out a few vanes on the fan. But who knows? It may work for a little while.

Falconeer

Ummm I'll just replace it. Better spend a jfew bucks now than risking a whole lot more later.
I think its cause it gets disbalanced geometrically that causes it to bounce around at such high rpms and so it breaks.

Thanks guys.

Falconeer.

Falconeer

HELP!

I bought the new clutch shoe. I was opening the engine back plate yesterday, 3 of the 4 screws came out okay, but the 4th... its head was ground. How do I get it out now? Is there any other way to take the clutch out???? Should I try heating that screw?

Thanks.

RCer22

A little heat won't hurt. The engine gets hot all the time. Are you using an OS 32? If your using an OS 37 don't get it hot enough to melt the O Ring on the back plate. Another thing you can try is to remove the screw with a small vice grip if there is enough of the head sticking out. You may also be able to file a slot in it for a screw driver and get it out that way. There is also another way to stop the piston but I don't recommend it. There is a tool nick named (the piston punch) that you screw into the glow plug hole and that stops the piston from moving. But that has been known to break through the top of the piston thats why people don't use them.

Falconeer

Thanks Rcer22,

I got the screw off finally. Now I am gonna go home and try another stunt with a toothbrush. Cause they do not sell the crank lock tool here!

Anyways, thanks for your help. The filing idea is what worked. One of the technicians where I work got it open for me.

Thanks again.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I would absolutely not use a piston lock. If you must, and I know you got it fixed, pull the glow plug and but some twine in the hole, it will only take enough to keep the pistion from going over the top at TDC but you really shouldn't use something that puts that kind of stress on the rid and crank pin, you're just asking for something to break.

Alternative to the backplate method is pulling out the carb and jamming the crank at the intake hole with a toothbrush.