redvtr1000

I know it isn't the easiest thing to do when you start feeling a bit of confidence but stick to radd's as best as you can. Just beginning, I think you really need to focus on keeping it low to the ground and keeping the tail facing you. When it gets away and the nose swings in, things can get real hairy. If you are in a small space, this leaves even less room for error. Better to anticipate it happening and stop it early than try to bring yourself back from a screwy orientation.

I had to practice a while of just letting the heli slide along on the ground and working the throttle and tail to keep it where I wanted. Increase throttle and do what is necessary to keep the tail in. Don't blast the throttle and try to go to 5 feet thinking it will be smoother and easier (it usually is) a loss of control and crash at that altitude will probably bang it up a lot worse than if you are at a foot or two and close the throttle to start over.

I'm not reccomending that you learn to jam the throttle closed every time it gets away from you, as it might cause issues for you down the road, but thats mostly what I did (not really jam it just close it so the heli plopped onto the ground) while learning the basics

nuttcaze

I actually have a huge room to practice in, a whole aerobics room about 40x40 with nothing in it except for hardwood floors and mirrors, but what I have been doing is when it doesn't have enough batt juice to fly, I scoot it along the ground and practice my turns and what not, fun really, but did a couple turns in the air but 1 didn't work so well, oh well thats life, I read through Radds, but I kinda follow my own path, I don't have the patience for any kind of tutorial, I read then I just go figure it out on my own, done really good so far, never had any probs hovering, never bought traing gear, just getting a little over confident and then boom , All my crashes have been 100% my fault, but I've always been able to fix it except for this last time, it wasn't having it, I can't wait to change everything over, should take 5 mins or so, then back to flying

kenskid

Cool....I may get the HBCP kit for my electronics.

KezzerOne

Druss - I actually have a cable for my transmitter, and 2 different freeware SIMs, however, I can't get the damn thing to work!!! In FMS it doesn't recognize my tx. I have spent so long searching for how to make it work and have given up...... I read to switch the switches behind the 3rd battery, to try using a USB expansion block..... blah blah blah... all bull****. If you have any advice, I would greatly appreciate it!! I have the standard Esky 4-channel.. I think it's 0404?

redvtr - Thanks for the advice..... I start out just scooting it along the floor, but then I get kinda impatient and want to hover. So, alot of it is my fault.

KezzerOne

Oh.. and another thing..... Whenever I start to pick up head speed, and the heli gets a little light on the skids, it ALWAYS, ALWAYS goes LEFT. ALWAYS!!! However, if I adjust the servo trim for left/right it will slide left, and then start to tip right. *** is the deal? Is this normal? God I never knew getting this thing airborne would be so damn difficult and frustrating!

nuttcaze

yes it will drift, need to conteract that with the tail, mine does it but you learn to compensate, it doesn't do it as much when it gets in the air

kenskid

Mine always drifts left also. I think it is a common thing with all helis. If the blade was spinning in the opposite direction it would slide to the right. On the rare occasion I get in the air...the drifting stops.

KezzerOne

Ok... I guess that's good to know. At least I know that it's not just my heli acting like a POS. I have also noticed, on the very rare occasion that I do get it airborne it stops drifting.... I usually notice this about .5 secs before it crashes. Then it's online I go to order more parts!

kodak_jack

I just got my HBFP late today. The first thing I needed to do was charge the battery. How long do you charge it(no indicator, etc.)? After it was charged, I wanted to put the battery i[b]n[/b] the holder. Too bad they don't tell you how it goes in. It doesn't fit inside the holder, but gets sandwiched in between the front and back pieces so it's pinched. There's nothing to tell you that.
I can't believe how TINY the tail rotor motor is!!
As noted in another posting, my tail rotor wasn't plugged into the 4 in 1, so, there wasn't any power to the motor.

KezzerOne

In order to make my batteries fit, I had to trim some of the plastic shrink material that holds the cells together in order to move the main wire lead away from the edge. With the wire coming out at the edge, it inhibits the battery holder from fitting correctly on that end of the pack. Tomorrow I can take a pic or 2 so you can see what I mean.

kodak_jack

I bought the Super Skids when I ordered mine. I'm thinking I'm going to have the opposite problem when I put them on. The opening in the bottom is bigger and I don't know how the battery will stay in place.

nuttcaze

lol, I don't care as long as it(battery) doesnt fall from my heli

KezzerOne

DUCT TAPE!!!!

nuttcaze

my local dollar store had a bunch of velcro starps for $1 (obviously), tried using them but it was too much of a pain when changing batteries, which I do often

The Codfather

The only way I could balance my HBFP properly (fore and aft) was to move my battery ahead about a half inch till it touched the forward strut. Had to eliminate the forward mount completely. I still use the rear mount and use a small velcro strap around the front of the pack wrapped around the CF rods. Battery change is quick now and the balance is spot on perfect. Made an incredible difference in control of the machine!

nuttcaze

I just tried that and didn't feel like I could get the battery secure so I'm just gonna use the 2 sides tape that came with the heli and tape something to the underside of the 4in1, it'll be a while before I swith to a lipo battery, the Ni-MH's are cheap and a little safer, that and I already have a few.

The Codfather

I ordered some Super Skids and tailset for mine the other day so I'm going to have to redo mine anyway.

nuttcaze

wow, I taped a small strip of metal underneath the 4in1 (it was a long thin strip, hung it on front blades to measure how much, then folded 4 times used 2 pieces of double sided tape, worked great so much more stabe, I had also moved my left right cyclic to the second hole, and just moved my rear fin Forwards just now, I gotrim the tail trimmed to keep it centered tail in easier, almost a different heli

kodak_jack

Okay, we're all in the same boat, so, here goes:
1. I cannot get my sim to work properly. Everything looks good in the set up, but when I run the sim, it won't lift. I wasted over an hour today with it and it just won't work for me.
2. I put the Super Skids together. I hate to admit it, but they took me about two hours of screwing around to get them on and adjusted. After all is said and done, the battery is better placed, but it's held in by rubber bands. This whole helicopter is built around pieces of skinny round stock and pieces of skinny Tygon tubing that holds things in the right spot. My whole experience of putting those together was "You've got to be kidding" laced with many "*** does he mean by that?" I think the rubber bands will make taking the battery in and out a giant PITA. The overall effect of the Super Skids is great compared to the skinny skids it came with though.
3. I have to give my heli a lot of throttle just to get light on the skids. I'm hoping the sim problem isn't really my transmitter, which shows itself on the heli too.
4. The transmitter has sticks and thumb wheels/dials/whatever you want to call them. Are the thumb wheels a means of fine tuning what you get out of the sticks? For instance, if your heli tends to drift to the left, can you tweak the thumb wheel to stabilize the tail so you don't have to do it with the stick?
5. How do you know when to call it quits with the battery and charge it? Will the servos not respond as well anymore even though the rotor still spins up okay (I seemed to see that toward the end of playing with it today). Is there a given amount of time to recharge the stock battery?

rparn2

My Feedback: (11)

[8D]Hi all I have just got me an E Sky HoneyBee FP what do you mean by moving your left right cyclic to the second hole the one on top of the original or below it a pic would be nice if some one has or could take one showing the move having trouble getting this bird to hover. I have just installed super skids and using a 11.1v lipo seems to be a little better. I finally got the thing balanced has been to windy to try it out hope to get to soon have fun and keep it in the air Rick

nuttcaze

[link=http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/nuttcaze/heli/?action=view&current=Picture16.jpg]pic[/link]

nuttcaze

cool, figured out how to make a link to a word, anyways its a crappy pic but thats what I meant about moving the one servo link in 1 hole. the trim tabs, they're suppose to help dial in the heli for a more controlled hover I think, but drifting to the left always seems to happen on mine no matter what. I don't use the super skids or a lipo and doesn't seem like it takes mine alot to get light on its skids, but I usually give it a quick jab on the throttle to get it off the ground so I can keep it from drifting left. As far as the battery, this is the reason I Ni-MH, I fly till it won't hover and recharge it for 2 hours, seems to work, no probs yet, get around 6-7 mins (sometimes more) of flight depending on what I'm doing. I never leave it unattended and even if it shortens the life span of the batt, oh well I'm still learning, when I get better I'll get a lipo (when I no longer worry about crashing)

rparn2

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks nuttcaze for the pic. How do you get it out of the hole do you have to unscrew it or can you wingle the thing ous of the bends. I use the LI-po because I can get 10 12 min of trying to hover getting close hovered for a couple of min. In my friends big work shop yesterday I love this hobby all the work is worthwhile. Keep it in the air. Thanks again Rick.

nuttcaze

I made sure the servo arm was level then disconnected the arm with the link attached to the servo arm, the holes are on the small side so ream the hole out a bit with something, I used a thumb tack, after you move it to the next hole, reinstall the servo arm and snap the link back on the swashplate, (its better to use needle nose pliers to remove the link from the swash plate though)

kodak_jack

Let's talk about another problem I seem to have. I get it light on the skids and can go forward. I can swing the tail around. If I try to move it left or right, it doesn't move in that direction (like if you were trying to stay in the 1 foot or 3 foot square that experts recommend). If I continue giving it stick to try to get it to move left or right, it'll eventually flip or try to flip over. I wish there was a video that shows you how to get started and do the things that are recommended. []