Engine Break in
#1
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From: Placerville,
CA
I've heard several ways to break in a new heli engine. Bolt the helicopter down with a board and bricks, use a test stand, take off the blades and run the copter. Which is the best way and if I use a test stand what size prop?
#2
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From: Farmington,
NH
Whatever ya do, do NOT run with the blades off!!!
You will most certainly over-rev the engine and the heli's parts.
Personally, I'v never had a new Engine in a heli, bought all mine used ( Whole heli with a demo flight first ).
As for using a test stand, I see no reason why not;
I'd say use the same prop you would use on that size engine for breaking in a non heli engine if on a test stand.
That is, slightly smaller than normal for the engine.
But I am not the expert here!
Read the manufacturers instructions, they should say how to break it in!
now wheres my Ray's manual, I'm sure He said something about it...
Russell
You will most certainly over-rev the engine and the heli's parts.
Personally, I'v never had a new Engine in a heli, bought all mine used ( Whole heli with a demo flight first ).
As for using a test stand, I see no reason why not;
I'd say use the same prop you would use on that size engine for breaking in a non heli engine if on a test stand.
That is, slightly smaller than normal for the engine.
But I am not the expert here!
Read the manufacturers instructions, they should say how to break it in!
now wheres my Ray's manual, I'm sure He said something about it...
Russell
#3
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From:
i hate test stands for one reason, they have about 1/100 less rotating friction that's caused by the propeller vs. the baldes on a heli,
i had had a .32 os live for 15 gallons before losing copression and here's how i broke it in,
threw the engine into the heli, then ran it boggin rich, you want to ge the engine to a bogg then 1..2..3.. second then you want it to respond,...
take it for a 1-2 inch hovor and do that for about a minute then land and let it sit for a tank idleing, then from there slowly increase the hovering time till you do a full tank, then run rich from there and fly slow and non agressive,
the engine should be cold enough where you can grab it with no discomfort.
PEACE
;0
i had had a .32 os live for 15 gallons before losing copression and here's how i broke it in,
threw the engine into the heli, then ran it boggin rich, you want to ge the engine to a bogg then 1..2..3.. second then you want it to respond,...
take it for a 1-2 inch hovor and do that for about a minute then land and let it sit for a tank idleing, then from there slowly increase the hovering time till you do a full tank, then run rich from there and fly slow and non agressive,
the engine should be cold enough where you can grab it with no discomfort.
PEACE
;0
#5
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From: Tripoli, IA,
You should never run a ABC (non ringed) engine slobbering rich for breakin, they need to get up to normal operating temp very fast or you can damage them. Check this link very good info on break in. http://www.ronlund.com/faqs.htm
#6
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From: Los Angeles, CA
An OS .32 should last a lot longer than 15 gallons before losing compression. Probably the reason yours did is that you "broke it in" slobbering rich, which does not allow the parts to come up to their proper operating temperature, and can thus scrub the piston and liner. I have 15 gallons through my OS .32 and it runs like new. I broke in mine by simply installing it in the heli, setting the needle rich (two turns open), starting the engine, and then closing the needle until it was just lean enough to give me crisp throttle response with lots of smoke (15% fuel). I ran it like that for the first gallon, then leaned the needle a bit to increase power while still giving me a good smoke trail. In any event, an ABC engine should never be run so rich that the engine is cool enough to touch after a run.



