Except for painting one or two cowels and a helicopter (made of some kind of thin clear plastic) about 18 years ago, this was my first attempt at painting this bleach-bottle stuff. I learned a few things, and made some mistakes, but it didn't turn out too badly.

By the way, I hadn't flown helis for about 18 years previous to this Caliber, it was solid right out of the box - with the GY401 helping (I'd never flown with a gyro before) I was hovering pretty solidly after running half a tank checking tracking, etc. So far seems to be a pretty good machine - I was most impressed with the tightness of all the preassembled parts (after hearing stories in the past several years about having to disassemble and locktite/tighten hardware).

This was also my first attempt at making my own water-slide decals, they worked a lot better than I expected.

What kind of paint sticks to that stuff these days?
Like you I have been flying about 12 years. Got out
of it. for a about 4 years. I am used to Macanical Gyros
and I now own a GY502.. Thsi otta be interesting as well!
And just built a Falcon SE II Can't wait to fly it ~S~
I also still fly the Old Concept SR! I can Not believe how
much has happend in the past 4 or 5 years !
Thanks for the pics
Jeff

Jeff:

Do a search on here about painting - it's a fairly well discussed topic, but essentially "all" you have to do is prepare the canopy, use an adhesion promoter and rubber-bumper primer.

The Caliber has a lot of difficult areas to sand & prepare - like around the inlet area and the sharp radiuses around the "canopy/glass" area. I used automotive lacquer paints (out of spray cans), and non-water-based laquer clear over top. As has been said the clear isn't the best at all to use.

I'm really impressed with how the '401 works. Obviously my impressions are heavily influenced by never having used even a mechanical one, but so far it is pretty much perfect. Turn the helicopter and leave it, it just won't move when heading hold (ACVS) is on.

WOW , very nice...

Good Job man really nice.

Thanks, we'll see how it lasts

I already have some small cracks where I stressed the paint "outwards" (long story).

I do have some comments about the canopy that go along with some of the other things I've seen written about it on the 'net.

1) I'm not sure it's as ugly as I thought it was a first - either that or it's just growing on me. The way the colors I used work I think it'll work out ok.

2) High-speed needle-valve access isn't as bad as it could be. The OS32 allows a wire-extension (they provide a hole and set-screw in the needle for that purpose). It's a compromise, but it will still allow access. That doesn't help the idle mixture obviously.

3) The on/off switch is easily accessible though a hole cut in the canopy as indicated in the instructions (I've read on some web pages about how it's impossible to reach the on/off switch). There isn't a convenient place for the charge plug though. I tied mine off so it doesn't float around too much, capped it off with a snug-fitting rubber cap to keep the oil out, and left it accessible via the inlet.

4) The canopy fits around the muffler (pre cut) just perfectly. Unfortunately the back edge of the canopy (the part that curls around) has to be cut away just to give the exhaust/oil someplace to go - no biggie.

5) The long "inlet" in the canopy requires you use a long-reach plug wrench and "ignitor". A smaller one will work, but you have to be careful reaching inside the inlet so as to not stretch/break the thing. Again, no biggie.

6) I figured the thumb-screws they supplied were a neat idea. Unfortunately after I got it painted I realized that I was scraping up the paint trying to turn the things. Seems to me a hex-head screw and a matching screwdriver would be a little easier in the long run.