Hi, I'm trying to paint my vigor cs canopy.
After spraying base primer, then what kind of paint sould i used before finish it w/ clearcoat? enamel base or lacquer base....or can i just use any spray that u use for car....(metal).....
please reply.... ***CS canopy is made out of fiberglass..
thanks, Min

I paint canopies for several people...I use the same primer as base coat as clear coat (PPG)! I have the equipment and this is the simplist for me! The primer is to give a "grip" to the paint...you do the same thing by making the surface rough with a Scotchbrite pad and you save the weight of the primer! As long as the paint is not affected by the clear you can use anything you want as a color coat, you might want to test it first on a scrap of something...Testors R/C car paint works well..just let it dry for at least 24 hours (it's called Outgassing) B4 clearing! Hope this helps... Chris

<<I paint canopies for several people...>>

Hmmm... wish I'd known that. I would have cut some sort of deal with you.

This airbrush just isn't cutting it. Oh, it works fine, but this automotive lacquer flashes so fast I really gotta hump to get an even coat applied before the first part dries. The airbrush just doesn't put out enough paint.

I really should get a detail gun and compressor, but I just don't do enough of this work to justify the expense. I've got a local guy who shoots the clear; I do everything else. But its hard to drop several hundred bucks on gear that will only be used once or twice a year.

Gonna shoot the final trim coats on the X-Cell 30 glass canopy today.

Min, lacquer is better than enamel, IMO. it's lighter, dries faster, and flows on smoother from the gun- at least for me. But it seems the enviro-nazis have declared lacquer an Evil Thing: I hear it has been banned in several communist states already. We lost Hobbypoxy due to that crap. If we're not careful, we'll allow those extremist idiots to have us all eating bean sprouts and wearing filter masks...

Steve

MAXX,

I have a brand new spare canopy for my GPH 346. Is it possible to be painted?

itsindilas; What is the canopy made of? I only paint Fiberglass canopies, the bleach bottle canopies are an art form I care not to practice! Chris

it is a bleach bottle canopy :-((

Don't despair, try CanopyFX, they paint all sorts of canopies and do really pretty work! Hpoe this helps you... Chris

Well, the problem is that I have already asked them and they have replied that they paint them but they have to be already pre-coated. What I don't know if some the other models canopy fits to my GPH.

itsindilas

I have painted those type bodies.

Scuff up the surface with fine sandpaper and wash well with dishwashing soap and water. Spray it with an flexible bumper adhesion promoter and then a flexible bumper primer. You can fine these items at most auto parts stores. Be sure to read the instructions on the cans as some limit the amount of time to dry before putting on another coat.

I then paint mine with Krylon fluorescent yellow and orange paint. I just fade in the two colors with the spray cans. I then put on the decals I want and clear coat. I use Minwax clear gloss polyurethane. I don't use the type that says on the can "clean up with water". I had bad luck with it getting sticky and coming off with methanol. I haven't had any problems with the solvent based poly yet. It will take on a little bit of an amber tint so if that bothers you have it clear coated at an auto body shop.

Good luck

I would say spray PPG. Its the best . Very High pigment and you can tape or clear after 15 min. If you live in cali, sorry its been declared cancer cousing agent . What hasn't?
Wear a good quality mask( 3M) and dispose of waste properly, don't pour it on the ground or down the drain.

Hey, Scott; that photo brings back some memories! Has that fellow (Heli-Tech?) made good on his claim to get the parts flowing again?

Here's a glass canopy I just finished, using an airbrush and automotive lacquer. That stuff is SOOOO easy to work with and just about idiot proof once you get your air mixture adjusted right.

The clear coat was shot by an auto body shop detail gun; if you are into painting canopies, it's a REAL good idea idea to befriend someone with this equipment. The clear coat MAKES the paint job, in more ways than one.

Steve,

First, Great looking canopy. I had a friend that I had clear coat with automotive and when I got it back it had runs and dirt all over it. He's not such a good friend anymore. I agree though buddy up with a body shop and let them shoot it at the end of a regular paint job.

I can't seem to pry myself away from those machines. I'm sure you can understand why. I have 3 flying with OS 50s. One of those is now going into a Long Ranger fuse now. I run governors on them to keep head speed around 1750 as the OS 50 is a ton of power for them. I have 2 others sitting on the shelf and lots of parts I bought up when TSK went out of business and everyone was selling out their stuff. The one in that picture I bought new and unflown for $250 with servos. I know that Helitech has a lot of parts on hand but I haven't had to get anything from them as of yet. The way I'm going it may be quite a while before I have to get anything from them. At least I hope.

One of my flying buddies has a big stash of TSK stuff; enough to build a complete MyStar 60 and plenty left over, from a MyStar 60, 46, and 30, and an AcroStar. The AcroStar was brand new, on it's third flight, when the front t/r pinion split. On it's way down, the ship smacked the side of his house, so the damage was very minor

He's going to catalog it all and put it on the TSK List.

Steve

Here's another one, with the same techniques and paint (didn't have enough white to do the 30 canopy).

This is the standard MA Lexan canopy. They are easier to do than the glass ones; no pin holes to fill, etc. Just scuff it with 2000 grit or a ScotchBrite pad.

I wish they made this style for the 30; I like the looks. The standard 30 Lexan canopy looks dorky.

Of course, lots of folks think this one looks dorky too...<G>

Looks nice Steve,

Did you paint it from the inside? I did a Lexan body for a friend like that and it looked great. No worry about clearcoating it either. I've done the same with lexan car bodies.

Clear coating is easy. I use a badger 400 touch up gun. Make sure you have optimal conditions, 70 deg F and no dust. Lay the first coat on light, it will look like a mist covering. Wait 10 minutes and lay the next coat on until it turns clear then stop.
This for PPG strato clear DCU2082.

Topgun

About all I can say is
NICE!!!


I don't have a heated garage or a basement so it kind of limits my painting abilities. Would love to have a set up were i could do some things like that.

Topgun,

I like nice and clean!

Where can I purchase lacquer? I have gone to my local auto-parts store and they only sell PPG products. Does Dupont make a lacquer?

PPG makes lacquer! I use it alot of it, and so does Dupont.

Topgun,

Simply outstanding, guy. That is, without doubt, the prettiest Raptor canopy I've ever seen.

Scott,

No. I considered doing it from the inside, but sometimes that seam where you join the two halves needs considerable work. So I find it gives better results to get that seam cleaned up and finished before painting.

My man does his clear-coating in a proper paint booth, but I do all of my work in the back yard with a Badger airbrush and can of Propel. This automotive lacquer (I think it is PPG; it was given to me) dries instantly, so I don't worry about attracting dust, bugs, etc.

If I ever build another house, it will have a "dirty room", with central heat and air, for painting, sanding, etc.

Below is an interesting comparison; I hope the digital photo can show the difference between the canopy on the right, which was done with automotive lacquer and clear coat, and the canopy on the left, which was done with Top Flite LusterCote from the spray can (clear too). There simply is a world of difference.

The spray can hobby paint gave okay results; I'm not ashamed of it. But it certainly won't turn any heads.

That airbrush is a BIG pain to set-up, clean, etc. But the end result is worth the effort. It's only drawback is volume; it really doesn't put out enough paint for a good-sized project. If anyone is thinking of getting into this seriously, a quality "detail" gun should be your first purchase. This is bigger than an airbrush, but smaller than your standard full-size spray rig.

Steve

Well, that didn't work. The spray can paint job has a distinct "orange peel" effect. You can't see it in the photo, but up close it jumps out at you.

Steve