When I turn on my transmitter and then plug in my Reciever on my heli the Reciever lights will light showing a lock but the 401 gyro will flash rapidly and then flash slowly._._._._ . When I turn off power to my reciever and then turn it on my gyro will flash rapidly and then lock but my reciever will not lock, it will contine to flash. If I first power on my reciever with the transmitter on and it locks but my gyro doesn't and then if I move my cyclic fully to one side and release it my servos will begin twitching my reciever will power off and come back on the servos stop twitching, but the reciever will be flashing and the gyro will be locked. I have no idea what the heck is going on does anyone have any suggestions? I have had this problem awhile I normally just cycle power and fly. Today on the bench I just happened to hit the cyclic stick and I saw the servos twitch, I want to stay grounded until I can get this resolved I'm also contacting JR but would appreciate any help. Also sometimes while flying I'll lose Gyro lock I have no idea why, I usually continue flying. This heli has never been crashed all of the electronics are new? Maybe this below step by step will help explain the issues better.

TX on
RX on RX locked
GY blinks rapidly then slowly blinking never locks

TX still on
Cycle power RX off and then on RX blinks on all three led's continues blinking never locks
GY blinks rapidly then locked

TX still on Hold cyclic stick to full right and then release Servo's twitch, rudder included
RX blinks turns off by itself no lights 1 sec and then continues blinking again
GY blinks rapidly when RX turns back on locked.

I'm supplying 5.8V to the RX through a seperate Castle Creations BEC, I have a voltage regulator between my gyro and rudder servo Futaba S9254.

Thanks Dan

The slow blink is that the gyro is in rate mode not AVCS. Set the trans up to AVCS and that part will go away. I believe that the 401 is designed only for 4.8v and that may have something to do with the rest of it. Some Futaba and other digital servos are also not designed for above 4.8v...

so would you reccomened turning down the BEC to 4.8V or putting the voltage regulator between the RX and Gyro? also if the The slow blink is that the gyro is in rate mode not AVCS, then why will it sometimes be solid and sometimes be blinking? I'm not making any changes to it for it to change between modes. I've never really used AVCS and am not totally confident setting it up any suggestions like where to set the TX settings? The gyro manual states that it'll take 4v-6V. I will try your suggestions though. the Servo twitch is on all channels it's only a second and a half but it's enough to keep me grounded until I figure it out.

could anyone help me out with the 401 gyro settings on a JR TX. I'm a self taught pilot and I've never messed with that programming.

First of all, what heli is this? how are you powering the electronics? are your batteries fully charged? what cyclic and tail servos are you using?

MORE INFORMATION.

Not trying to be nasty, but you are seriously confused how things work.
Can I suggest to study up on some of the devices? Use the RC forums and read up on the individual components.

Here are some clarifications.
1) Your R921 is working the way it should. What you are seeing is the Quickconnect feature designed by Spectrum and incorporated by JR as well.
Quickconnect is a visual indication when the RX things it had a brownout (loss of power). The idea is: If after a flight, you have blinking RX lights, it suggests that there was a short loss of power (or voltage too low) and that you better check your onboard power system.
Now if you go and turn off the RX and turn it back on again, while the TX stayed powered up, you are simulating this conditions.
It's just a visual aid.

2) GY401
It's quite happy to run on the 5.8Vdc and you have done the correct thing by adding the step down diode cable between your gyro and the servo, as the servo is designed for lower voltage and the diode makes sure that the servo won't be harmed due to over voltage.

The gyro has 2 modes: rate (normal mode) and HH (heading hold) which Futaba call their AVCS mode.
During bootup (when you turned the RX on) the gyro works through it's initialisation (just like a Computer) and it's light will flash until it's finished with the bootup. Once done: In Rate mode the gyro LED will be OFF. In HH mode the gyro LED will be ON.
After bootup, thee gyro LED will show blinks or flashes every time you move the rudder (tail) stick. It's just another visual indication to show you what is happening.

To start with:

Keep your TX at least 1m away from your heli.
Turn on TX then RX...do NOT move the heli or touch any of the TX functions until everything has finished initialising.
Any interruption during the boot prosesses for both the RX and the gyro will make them behave oddly or malfunction until anothre reset.
These are small Computers that need to go through their boot sequence without interruptions or interference to function properly.

Ok
For your gyro setup go here: http://www.archeli.com.au/cobra/showthread.php?t=110938

For a list of more comprehensive setups of all kinds (electronic/engine and mechanicle, go here and follow the suggestion/link: http://www.archeli.com.au/cobra/showthread.php?t=114963

That should keep you busy for a while

Alfred is half (maybe 3/4 ) right.

The quick connect/low power warning is indeed the cause of your receiver flashing.

Where he put his foot in his mouth is with the 401.

It MUST be initialized in AVCS mode. If you initialize it with the switch in rate mode position it will fast flash for 3 seconds then slow single flash indicting an error condition. A rudder input is a double flash, pause, double flash.

Your particular problem is the gyro is completing its initialization before the reciever locks on so its not seeing the signal on the gain line telling it to go into heading hold mode. When you reboot the reciever the quick connect kicks in and the gyro locks on to a valid signal but the recievers flash telling you that you had a power failure.

The solution is to put the gyro switch in heading hold and rebind the reciever.

Your problem will go away.

OOIII
I'll give you foot in the mouth

True
I have 3 GY401's running on AR7000's and the 1st thing is to set up your RX and GY on (JR) Gear channel.
Next move after setting all the reverse/ATV/mechanicle throws etc, is to rebind the RX.

I have given him links which have very comprehensive Instructions for beginners how to setup the GY401.
Once he has got the basics correct, he can then come back for the finer settings.

Align 600CF loaded. Current setup 2X22.2V 5000Mah batteries to a 120A Scorpion ESC/BEC to RX, 11.1V 2400mah for accessories.

I was using the 11.1V to a CC 10A BEC regulated 5.8V to the RX, and off of the 22.2V to a CC10A regulated to 9V to power accessories

Actually the BEC was causing my issue everything is good now, I have my gyro on my aux 2 switch on my Tx I have my landing lights on my gear switch. The CC 10 A BEC update V1.03 will not work correctly with the JR reciever, I tried two of them and two recievers. I connected my old Align BEC with the 7.4V battery and everything worked fine. I had the BEC portion of my ESC disconnected. I re-connected the red wire on my Scorpion 120A ESC and used it to power the reciever and now everything is fine. I had wanted to have the reciever seperate from the ESC on it's own power supply but for what ever reason the Castle creations will not support the reciever. I tried unplugging the aileron servos and holding the elevator stick up or down, releasing it and letting it bounce at center and it caused the RX to lose lock, I tried it on every channel to see if it was maybe a bad wire somewhere, and it was defenitly the CC BEC. It worked fine with normal stick movements but if you try an abrupt movement it'll die, and servo's will twitch badly!! My gyro stays lit now when I power everything up. In the future I may wait until the reciever locks and then flip the switch to initialize it. Everything is fine now I'm just waiting on my new pinion gears so I can install my new Scorpion 560 and go flying. The align 600XL is too overloaded due to weight causing it too draw much current over heating my ESC. I'll be glad to recieve any additional insight. Thanks guy's