The New F86D Dog Sabre
#1001
My Feedback: (3)
Interesting theory about the hydrostatic pressure. Care to elaborate on how that would work? Meanwhile, I've glued in both of my tanks after repairing the leak in the left one. (!) Yes, the tanks covered my wing mounting screw holes as you all have already no doubt discovered. Another biggie I solved after some thought is routing the steering cables so that the nose wheel can retract without getting stuck on the bunched up cables. They get "longer" when the gear is retracted. I made a new aluminum steering arm with the tips bent down towards the ground. The holes for the cables are drilled into the two bent tips. This allows the cables to hinge during retract instead of acting like a lever and whipping all about. I'll post a picture of this later today.
Last edited by Pull Up Now!; 01-04-2014 at 08:06 AM.
#1002
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Dudelange, LUXEMBOURG
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Interesting theory about the hydrostatic pressure. Care to elaborate on how that would work? Meanwhile, I've glued in both of my tanks after repairing the leak in the left one. (!) Yes, the tanks covered my wing mounting screw holes as you all have already no doubt discovered. Another biggie I solved after some thought is routing the steering cables so that the nose wheel can retract without getting stuck on the bunched up cables. They get "longer" when the gear is retracted. I made a new aluminum steering arm with the tips bent down towards the ground. The holes for the cables are drilled into the two bent tips. This allows the cables to hinge during retract instead of acting like a lever and whipping all about. I'll post a picture of this later today.
Hi all.
All the best for 2014.
For the steering cables I found a good solution on the web site of Fei Bao. Connect both cables by a loop made of the rest of a cable strap and shrinking tube (add a drop of CA glue) See photo.
When the gear is retracted, the cable strap rest tends to flex and moves the cables away from the leg.
Flilek
#1003
My Feedback: (3)
That's a nice way to make a flexy, low rate spring. I like it. Turns out I don't really need to do anything special for my internal steering cables....the cable sheath keeps things in order. All the extra cable gathering seems to happen above the retracted wheel. I've tested this about 50 times, and it's behaving predictably.
#1004
My Feedback: (2)
Pull Up;
I have done some things different with my F-86D but like you wasn't sure how much interest there is. First I didn't have the problem with the I.D. of the bulkhead being too small for the tail pipe. Picture below show my bulkhead fit and my dummy engine with the mounting bracket installed. I was in the process of installing the tail pipe when I decided I need to finish installing my elevator, rudder and speed brake cables before the final install of the tail pipe. Also shown is the bulkhead I made for supporting the tail pipe at the rear end. Any comments and suggestions are encourged.
I have done some things different with my F-86D but like you wasn't sure how much interest there is. First I didn't have the problem with the I.D. of the bulkhead being too small for the tail pipe. Picture below show my bulkhead fit and my dummy engine with the mounting bracket installed. I was in the process of installing the tail pipe when I decided I need to finish installing my elevator, rudder and speed brake cables before the final install of the tail pipe. Also shown is the bulkhead I made for supporting the tail pipe at the rear end. Any comments and suggestions are encourged.
#1005
My Feedback: (2)
Another modification I have done is cut our the speed brakes and make them active. A side advantage of the speed brake cutout is the increased access to inside the fuselage tail for wiring and installing the tail pipe. I elected to do the speed brakes instead of modifing the flaps for increase travel. I wasn't sure how much power was needed for the speed brake so I did a test driving in my car at 70mph and measured the force required to open the speed brake. Force required was a lot lower than I expected. Link to video of speed brake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUhBHUJBQ8o
If anyone wants more details.
If anyone wants more details.
Last edited by sidgates; 01-06-2014 at 01:30 PM.
#1006
My Feedback: (3)
Pull Up;
I have done some things different with my F-86D but like you wasn't sure how much interest there is. First I didn't have the problem with the I.D. of the bulkhead being too small for the tail pipe. Picture below show my bulkhead fit and my dummy engine with the mounting bracket installed. I was in the process of installing the tail pipe when I decided I need to finish installing my elevator, rudder and speed brake cables before the final install of the tail pipe. Also shown is the bulkhead I made for supporting the tail pipe at the rear end. Any comments and suggestions are encourged.
I have done some things different with my F-86D but like you wasn't sure how much interest there is. First I didn't have the problem with the I.D. of the bulkhead being too small for the tail pipe. Picture below show my bulkhead fit and my dummy engine with the mounting bracket installed. I was in the process of installing the tail pipe when I decided I need to finish installing my elevator, rudder and speed brake cables before the final install of the tail pipe. Also shown is the bulkhead I made for supporting the tail pipe at the rear end. Any comments and suggestions are encourged.
I just completed salvaging as much of the nosegear bay clear plastic cover as I could. I'll post pics later tonight...but I had to glue the vacuum formed plastic piece to a 3/8" shim to raise it up enough to clear the retracted wheel. Goop works well for things like that. I also installed my CAT UAT last night. I'm starting on the retract plumbing tonight.
#1007
My Feedback: (3)
Another modification I have done is cut our the speed brakes and make them active. A side advantage of the speed brake cutout is the increased access to inside the fuselage tail for wiring and installing the tail pipe. I elected to do the speed brakes instead of modifing the flaps for increase travel. I wasn't sure how much power was needed for the speed brake so I did a test driving in my car at 70mph and measured the force required to open the speed brake. Force required was a lot lower than I expected. Link to video of speed brake: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUhBHUJBQ8o
If anyone wants more details.
If anyone wants more details.
#1008
My Feedback: (2)
That's funny!!! In fact it was very easy to hold the speed brake out the window and hold it with one hand at 70mph fully deployed. I have the mold for the inside covers for the speed brake if any one wants to do the same mod. I know it isn't scale to have the servo exposed when the speed brake is open but I wanted to keep it simple and cheap. I thought about using air before I found out the power needed and thought it would take some large air cylinders but probably wouldn't be hard to do with air.
#1009
My Feedback: (2)
I don't like to have to connect 4 servo cables and 4 airlines every time I go to fly the F-86D so I made quick disconnects for the servos and the air lines that are in the wing. The servos connect with a DB-9 connector and I modified the air line connector to mount on a plate. The first picture shows the assembly mounted in the wing root and the second picture shows the two connectors mated but not installed. The round plate mounts in the wing cutout and the more square one mounts in the fuselage side. When the wing slides on all the connections are made for air and wing servos.
#1011
My Feedback: (2)
Gus,
The air connector I used is sold by some of the retract companies but don't remember which one. I buy them locally from Industrial Specialties Mfg. The connectors are made by Colder Products Co, SMC series :
http://www.colder.com/Tabid/72/Mater.../Products.aspx
The part no. I buy them under at ISM is CPCP-01-A125 @ $1.25ea & CPCP-01-A127 @ $.96ea. Best contact at ISM is Dave Neely 303-781-8486. I have used this connector for a number of years very successfully as an inline connector. The connector pair comes apart by a small twist. For panel mount use I cut off the locking tab. I rough up the mounting surface when I panel mount them and epoxy them in the panel. The price at ISM is a lot lower than hobby company sources and I understand the retract manufactures have to make a profit. I always buy a minimum of 10 sets from ISM to keep the order above the nuisance level. I will probably add some pictures later today of the connectors.
The air connector I used is sold by some of the retract companies but don't remember which one. I buy them locally from Industrial Specialties Mfg. The connectors are made by Colder Products Co, SMC series :
http://www.colder.com/Tabid/72/Mater.../Products.aspx
The part no. I buy them under at ISM is CPCP-01-A125 @ $1.25ea & CPCP-01-A127 @ $.96ea. Best contact at ISM is Dave Neely 303-781-8486. I have used this connector for a number of years very successfully as an inline connector. The connector pair comes apart by a small twist. For panel mount use I cut off the locking tab. I rough up the mounting surface when I panel mount them and epoxy them in the panel. The price at ISM is a lot lower than hobby company sources and I understand the retract manufactures have to make a profit. I always buy a minimum of 10 sets from ISM to keep the order above the nuisance level. I will probably add some pictures later today of the connectors.
#1014
My Feedback: (2)
Jetflyer,
I haven't used the plug-in version in the field yet. When using this connector in-line as designed they have been very good. In the pictures below you can see the black "O" ring seal. In the first picture top left is a mated pair. Below is a pair separated. Top right is a sample i got that is for bulkhead mounting. ISm only had one of this type in stock at the time I was there last so haven't tried to use it in a plug in installation. In the second picture is the assembly I made, you can see the black "O" there also. The third picture is the mating assembly mounted in the wing root. By the way I removed the locking tabs on both halves with Dremel cut off wheel, just takes seconds. I just make sure I don't nick the barrel of the connector with the cut off wheel.
I haven't used the plug-in version in the field yet. When using this connector in-line as designed they have been very good. In the pictures below you can see the black "O" ring seal. In the first picture top left is a mated pair. Below is a pair separated. Top right is a sample i got that is for bulkhead mounting. ISm only had one of this type in stock at the time I was there last so haven't tried to use it in a plug in installation. In the second picture is the assembly I made, you can see the black "O" there also. The third picture is the mating assembly mounted in the wing root. By the way I removed the locking tabs on both halves with Dremel cut off wheel, just takes seconds. I just make sure I don't nick the barrel of the connector with the cut off wheel.
#1017
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Altoona,
PA
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I've been following this thread for just over a year and want to thank everyone for the great input and tips for building the Sabre Dog! I purchased one in December 2012, along with landing gear and my first turbine. My plan was to have it flying this past summer, but multiple issues prevented my reaching this goal. I finally got started and am on the home stretch, setting up the controls as recommended. I haven't done the hatch yet and will likely put a little detail in this area. I live in central PA and will have to travel about 2 hours or more to fly it and get my waiver. Being my first turbine, I chose it for many reasons including cost, scale like appearance and flying characteristics. During the building process I was surprised to find how accessible and helpful many of the vendors and owners are, as well as my fellow modellers and again, wanted to say thank you all! Happy New Years and Happy Flying!
#1019
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Orlando, FL
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Sidgates: My problem is the part numbers you provided don't work at either Colder Products Co. or at Industrial Specialties Mfg. I just want to make sure I order the right matching pair. Thanks...
#1022
My Feedback: (2)
[QUOTE=RAMFlyer;11704569]Sidgates: My problem is the part numbers you provided don't work at either Colder Products Co. or at Industrial Specialties Mfg. I just want to make sure I order the right matching pair. Thanks...[/QUOTE
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I will recheck my invoice tomorrow,.
Sid
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I will recheck my invoice tomorrow,.
Sid
#1024
My Feedback: (2)
Ramflyer- I found this link on the ISM site: http://catalog.industrialspec.com/it...833?&bc=0|2702
The part number I listed may be the local ISM stock number.
Sid