Tried to flat clear my Aeroloft dry transfer on my F 16, & this is what happened[] It took the steam right out of me.. Has anyone seen this before? Any good techniques to help me avoid this?
Thank guys!!!

My guess would be that the clear was put on too heavy and too quickly not giving it time to burn off the solvent which then went after the transfer. I have had this happen many years ago. I don't use Aeroloft but I would think that most dry transfers would work about the same. You need to apply it in light coats to keep it from floating off the transfers.

That could definitely be it, I did try to cover the transfers to start weathering etc... Thanks A million Kelly, I'll repair this & try the other side tomorrow

No problem, Hope it works out for you I'm sure it will

Brickyard,

Unlike Pro-Mark transfers, Aeroloft transfers are susceptible to dissolving in alcohol, acetone, and most ethyl-groups. When you get your transfers from Cindy in the mail, there are instructions included on what NOT to use. Did you per chance have any solvents in your clear? If you used something like Krylon, Rustoleum, etc, 90% chances are there are solvents in them.

I coincidentally just applied my Aeroloft transfers for my Stars and Bars to my BVM F100 last night since I decided against using the Paint Masks that I got with my Pro-Mark transfers (too lazy ) I had to use a non-acetone based Matte Clear on them.

I had to go to an art store and purchase special clear that is "odor/acetone/alcohol free". Aeroloft transfers are quite different from Pro-mark transfers (which I also happen to have on my F100 for nomenclature purposes). The Pro-Mark are much more resilient and can handle an acetone based clear.

Kelly is a master at detailing and adept at Flite-metal and in fact was a great aid in getting my Pro-Mark transfers to work for me, but Aeroloft is just more delicate. Make sure you read the back of the can you are using. I suspect that is the problem.

Good luck!

Shaz

Because of the fragile nature of the Aeroloft transfers I never use anything other than Pro-Mark. Yes, as Kelly said it is all due to the solvents in the clear. If you use the Aeroloft you need to mist on the clear for a number of coats to get the job done. The Pro-Marks cost more but are much better in this case overall.

I have the Aeroloft decals and I did use some cheap krylon flat clear but like John said I did it in light coats.

Thanks for all the help guys!!! It was pretty easy wet sanding the messed up transfer off. I tried ordering promark 1st, that what I've always used, but it was complicated to order from Jerry this time.. I forgot why, but I tried twice. I thought Aeroloft was the same, but now I see different.. I'll post if next shot on the opposite side works.. I reordered both sides again incase it doesn't.

Hi there,

I've owned three sets of that particular decal, I never used the blue/red transfer. I instead painted the white stripe, and used red monokote tape for the lining. The trasnfers I used in that area were the flag triangle, the white star, and the "Puerto Rico" lettering. Then flat cleared using PPG with flattening agent.

David

Hey Brickyard did you have success on the other side??
I also found that when applying transfers (ProMark brand anyway) that if you just slightly warm the surface and the transfer just before you apply pressure they will be much more flexible and stick down very well. Again that is with the ProMark product.

Yeah, I guess you can say it worked. I ended up using a combination of David's (Falcon wings) & Kelly's techniques to get it to semi work with the dullcoat. The edges of the red still bleed slightly, & very lightly faded even with light coats. I may get the red monokote tape & place it over the red, but since I'm doing a battle worn 16 anyway, the fading is kind of growing on me. This is the 1st and most likely the last time I'll use Aeroloft transfers.. I'm use to Promark's, buy it, press it, clear it, fly it. I've never dealt with this & it's scary knowing I still have an entire plane/armament to deal with this mess

Oh yeah.. & really/sincerely guys.. "thanks a million"!!! You guys, & RCU forum came through for me once again!

Hey looking good!

We need to do some formation flying one day!
Dough!! I sold mine. :-)

Lol.. Thanks bro.. Not bad for a stripped down Tamjets $550 "scratch & dent" kit

Are the rivets dry transfer as well? Looks great!

Thanks! It's a combination of small transfer rivets, & 1/8", & 1/16" burned. No problems with the rivets. The burned doesn't show up good in pics. Going to experiment with different colored rivets on the fuse/wings.
I considered just ordering a whole new transfer set from ProMark, but these were only like $95 bucks, & It looks like ProMark would be at least double that.

What clear did you use?
I've done some Aeroloft without problem.....but....

Thanks!
Greg

I actually like Aeroloft. Good product, right price. Just gotta follow instructions.

Shaz

I'm doing this project out of my apartment in Manhattan, so no air compressor. I picked up automotive paint in a spray can from my local auto paint supplier. For the flat clear I'm useing Testors all purpose dullcote. This is my 3rd scale aircraft being completed with this method & I never had a problem, but I've always used ProMark. I've never heard of non-alcohol based flat clear in a spray can. Have any of you guys? I'm hoping I can brush the "water based matte clear" over the delicate transfers, then clear like normal over that... We'll see..
I love the look of Aeroloft's decals, & they are a pleasure to deal with, so if I can make this work without an air compressor I'll certainly deal with them again. Shaz, do you remember what clear you used? Was it a spray can?