lavi rider

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D/w rc , d4s

Dave Wilshere

Another SG Hawk arrived late yesterday, this one is going to The Little Jet Company for Alex to build...should turn out nice ;-)

lavi rider

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Small nose gear door....

lavi rider

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fixed the offset hinge...

DUCMOZ

Thanks for the pictures. That is the next thing I have to do.

Behzad

topiwala

loving the nose door setup Lavi rider. coincidently, thats my next job as well. do you have a close up pic of your offset hinge mounting in the fuselage?...is it behind the bulkhead or in front?

DUCMOZ

I played with this a few hours yesterday and finally decided to go with a BVM air cylinder and regular hinging as making the geometry work needed a lot more time. That method could be found in original Skygate thread that Marc did pages 5 or 6.

Behzad

topiwala

Lavi rider....is the strut collar fixed to the strut, or is it floating. How does the door close. Is it spring loaded or something?

lavi rider

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The collar is floating. The door is spring loaded.

lavi rider

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Moving stabilizer servo control to the rear...

lavi rider

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NACA scoops

DUCMOZ

You will like the servos back much better. here are pictures of mine.

lavi rider

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Nice and clean work .

topiwala

Gents
are you guys using any heat shielding or ceramic heat paints etc in the model anywhere. You think there is any need in the tail area?

DUCMOZ

Hi, I am using some of BVM ceramic blanket under the elevator servos and where the stab mount is. It might not be needed but it is light and just makes me feel better. I am using the CARF pipe.

Behzad

topiwala

Thanks ducmoz. You got any pics of the blanket installation. I have the same blanket material.

DUCMOZ

Unfortunately no picture. I made a strap to hold the pipe in place and then a top section to hold it from moving side to side. then, cut the material to the shape of the area and it is held in place with very small button head screws. just to protect the elevator's center section and the servos. I have taken it a part and put aside as I am working on the nose section otherwise, I would send you pictures. I also finished the little nose gear door by using BVM cylinder. it came out great if you don't want to spend hours on it. I will post pictures of that next week.

topiwala

Gents
what is the best method to line up the turbine with the thrust tube. Are you guys just eyeballing through the rear of the tube and adjusting for centre that way? Or is there a better more accurate way?
how critical is it for the turbine to be exactly central. Is eyeballing thru the read of the tube good enough?

The above may be silly questions, but any answers would be great.

Chrs

mayur

DUCMOZ

Hi Topiwala, I am using a 180rx and I had to add two prices of plywood on the railings to get the engine centered. Otherwise, it sits about 0.25" low. I pay special attention to make sure that the engine is as center as it is possible. That eliminated the chance of damage to the half bypass or hot location on the pipe. You can measure and use the eyes to make sure it is centered. In the case of this plane, I realized that the half bypass deforms if you sit the engine in it without support while it is out of the plane especially if you open it up for better air flow. Therefore, I built a jig outside of the plane in the same size as the inside railings, then placed the turbine on it, centered it and drilled the mounting holes. By this, I made sure that the half by-pass does not deform under the wright of the engine during the drilling process.

I also used BVM heat shield on last 3" of the half bypass to protect the carbon fibre. I hope this helps.

Behzad

topiwala

Thanks ducmoz
yeah I realise the bypass deformation. I have a jig as well to make sure everything stay true and straight. I'm using an evojet 180 to setup and then will be flying with an evojet 220ex. Both are same size and mounting patterns. My 180 powers the UL. As far as I can tell the mounting frame for the evojets is central. So it doesn't have the jetcat offset issue. As far as I can tell.
I've got it pretty much as central as my eyes can make it. I'll have another pair of eyes checking it over before drilling any holes.

Thanks

DUCMOZ

If you are also using eye, it would be better if you attach the pipe to the bypass.

Behzad

DUCMOZ

Hi Guys. I finished the nose gear doors and the light. For the nose gear door, I used BVM cylinder (medium) in the same method as Marc had used. it works great. For the light, I destroyed 3 flash lights and finally one works. Bought the main light assembly from Electro Dynamics. then cut the flash light and fit the LED light in it and glued it in place. with the reflection, it is so bright that I could not get the picture work with it being on. here are some pictures.

lavi rider

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That's some pretty neat headlight you've got there :-) is that a Mag Light reflector in there ?

DUCMOZ

Hi , thank you. no, it was a Ray-ovac Flash light. as I mentioned, I had to buy 3 different ones and cut them and only this one worked. what I learned was that the size needed to be just a little bigger than the opening so it sits inside. Otherwise, it looked odd when it was mounted flush with the opening. I know it is not scale but it works great. another thing, CA would kill the reflector so Epoxy or Hysol only for gluing.

Behzad

topiwala

That door idea seems to be the most reliable way of doing it. Model nose leg geometry means that you can't have a mechanical link operated door with the nose leg. I'm actually planning on not doing a door initially. Will complete the model and fly and then get into that detail.