Add me to the list I have spring problems , bolts keep coming out and wear in the moving arm aswell in my reaction .</p>

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Sysiek asked me to post these pics he sent me. He said it worked but needed to be replaced every couple of weekends of flying.

I moved the bolt as <span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">Niteman </span><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">recommended . Looks like it will work. Will fly tomorrow.  Dan</font>

Hi this is the best system I develop and trust me I try all bigger springs shrink tubs and the oring was the best add more for stiffness + the work like oil shocks the jet will not bounce like before just buy 100 of them in harbor f tools and go fly.

I had a set of Pro-Links in my Reaction-X. They were early models without the circlip on the shoulder bolt. They kept backing out no matter what I did. I bought the replacement shoulder bolt kit with the circlips from Todd and installed them. They backed out and knocked the circlip off after about 4 flights. I screwed them back in and wrapped some saftety wire around the groove for the circlip then twisted it real tight. No more shoulder bolts backing out. Haven't had the spring problem yet.

Bob

+1

I did the same thing. Thin safety wire got pushed aside by bolt. Finally use red lock tight (hate using the stuff), e-clip and thicker safety wire.

5 flights and it is working great. You lift the plane and they go straight. THANKSniteman<span style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); "></span>
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Cool Dan have you go t a picture, I can't picture in my mind where you and niteman are putting the new spring boss

Matt I will try to take a picture to day but I ground through the old bolt area to get spring clearance. I will try to explane. On the strut you have a bolt that holds the spring . If you move the bolt farther it will increase the tension. So what he is saying is plug the hole were the old bolt was at and put the new one on the other side of it. Mine moved about 1/4". Use a aluminium bolt to plug the hole so you can grind through it to make clearance for the spring. I will send you a PM with my phone # if you ave more questions. Dan

Until pics are posted; It might help to note that rather than "the other side", the new hole and bolt are probably actually being placed just "above" the old location? The language had me confused initially...

One thing I found with the Bobcat ? boomerang intro style strut is that there is very little metal around the pivot. It sill stretch on a less than ideal landing. I made a set of new upper portions that have much more metal around the pivot hole. No issue ever since.

Gary Nice! Job! I think thats the best solution, Ive always said it needed more area to rub on. the Reaction struts have more area than the stock Bandit?bobcat one's but still less than the one you made.
you should make some more and sell to us!

It is not so much as to have the area for rubing (sideload), its to keep the hole from stretching due to such a small amount of material around the hole. The extra bearing suface (sideload) also helps.

Nice machining job Gary!

Why cant a retract be made from the manufacturer that works without being modified ??   </p>

Don't they know by now how to make something that works and lasts ?
Seems lots of people having problems ?</p>

Competition is the key.

Sandor (Jet 1A) was an innovator with trailing links, Todd (DW) wanted in the game and improved on them while providing a superior customer service aspect as well. Sandor then left the scene and things have been sorta stagnant for a while strut-wise.

Note the amazing innovations lately in the form of electric retract mechanisms and brakes though!

As long as we send our $$ to those who innovate and build ever better mouse traps (vs those who simply steal others' hard work and produce knock-offs) then there will be economic incentive to improve products and we will all benefit. Someone may very well come up with a strut which retains a zero offset while utilizing a compression spring rather than one which extends. Then the next versions will have dampers rather than springs, etc...

How about these struts?? has anyone used them with success? looks as if no stretchy spring problems with these......

http://www.altecare.com/struts.htm

From the pics at that link there's good and bad news as I see it.

Good: Zero axle offset if desired, springs in compression rather than extension, E-brakes available.

Bad: Pins, very chunky dimensions fore/aft might require major surgery for clearance?