Would you save it or trash it
#2
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From: Kitscoty,
AB, CANADA
If the fuse is easily repaired, I'd fix the fuse and buy new wings. Not that expensive when you think of it. Then you can get a free pair of wing from the fellah making the molds. 
Dale

Dale
#5
Senior Member
I'd likely start over. ARF repair part prices are usually much higher than the whole ARF.
I have a couple of un-assembled discontinued ARFs that I bought for spare parts for much less than the original HH price.
(A P47 and a P51)
I have a couple of un-assembled discontinued ARFs that I bought for spare parts for much less than the original HH price.
(A P47 and a P51)
#7
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Im really good at fiberglass repairs and there's no damage to any spars or wood for controls
Its just the leading edge. I was thinking of adding a carbon fiber rod along the leading edge to give me a good strong edge, then add G10 inside to fill gaps then sand back the original glass, use a heaver fiberglass then sand the whole front 8in of the wing and glass with lite glass
Its just hard because they dont make these sexy birds anymore and I put so much time into it this winter
Its just the leading edge. I was thinking of adding a carbon fiber rod along the leading edge to give me a good strong edge, then add G10 inside to fill gaps then sand back the original glass, use a heaver fiberglass then sand the whole front 8in of the wing and glass with lite glass
Its just hard because they dont make these sexy birds anymore and I put so much time into it this winter
#8
Wow, what a shame, you had it looking so good 
Everything's repairable & the damage is not too severe.
BUT 99% of the time a repaired model is heavier than before.
If it was a good flyer & felt 'light' in the air I'd fix it.
If it felt like a lead sled or an overweight, underpowered pig already I'd junk it.
John.

Everything's repairable & the damage is not too severe.
BUT 99% of the time a repaired model is heavier than before.
If it was a good flyer & felt 'light' in the air I'd fix it.
If it felt like a lead sled or an overweight, underpowered pig already I'd junk it.
John.
#13
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (34)
Im not 100% sure why the p80 shut off but I think it was a fuel tank issues and I was low and mid runway before I fig it was dead stick wnd went into the trees
Im just upset as this is such a great old bird
I got a 68 Dodge Charger when I was 18 when I joined the Army. I just love the classics
Mike
Last edited by mikes68charger; 03-23-2014 at 08:15 PM.
#14

My Feedback: (176)
Just fix the jet the damage is not to bad if the structure is ok than after the new skin and some time to do you will have the jet back to fly again ,the best way to fix wing is to find other damage wing and use the skin from other wing to glue in ,cut out the bad sections and glue in new ,don't use the g10 material it's to heavy and straight it's much better to use regular balsa and glass after if you like to make the balsa harder and stronger mix finishing epoxy with carbon fiber dust and paint the inside side of the balsa than use wax paper lay over the good part of the wing and cover with the balsa with the epoxy and carbon and press tide with send bag next day you will have the exact profile to fix the bad wing ,cut the right part glue in sand the sides and glass the wing fine bondo primer and paint.i hope you understand my broken English if you have time call me you have my # .
Last edited by sysiek; 03-23-2014 at 08:46 PM.
#17

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Hi Mike,
I did a leading edge repair similar to that big mouse bite you have near the tip (maybe the size of the palm of your hand), but nothing as extensive as the entire leading edge. I used a carbon rod to set the leading edge and this worked perfectly as you said. I used thick mylar and a set of external braces to mold new skins in place. I am not sure this would work for you because you need areas without damage on both sides of the repair to line the airfoil back up. For the leading airfoil, the first 1/4 of the chord is most critical (or so I have been told). Getting everything back to the right shape and symmetrical could be challenging. I would worry that the 2 sides would not be the same and your trim would change with speed.
Honestly you appear to be an old school modeller, a classic foam core wing could be made to work, copy the layout of an early BVM maverick for the spars, gear plates etc. Modern cores are unreal as the top guys use CNC foam cutters and you can get killer foam now too, not cheap but gorgeous.
In any case, if you have the room, before you throw it out, strip it, pack it up and put it away. You might need something to work on.
I did a leading edge repair similar to that big mouse bite you have near the tip (maybe the size of the palm of your hand), but nothing as extensive as the entire leading edge. I used a carbon rod to set the leading edge and this worked perfectly as you said. I used thick mylar and a set of external braces to mold new skins in place. I am not sure this would work for you because you need areas without damage on both sides of the repair to line the airfoil back up. For the leading airfoil, the first 1/4 of the chord is most critical (or so I have been told). Getting everything back to the right shape and symmetrical could be challenging. I would worry that the 2 sides would not be the same and your trim would change with speed.
Honestly you appear to be an old school modeller, a classic foam core wing could be made to work, copy the layout of an early BVM maverick for the spars, gear plates etc. Modern cores are unreal as the top guys use CNC foam cutters and you can get killer foam now too, not cheap but gorgeous.
In any case, if you have the room, before you throw it out, strip it, pack it up and put it away. You might need something to work on.
#18

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Since its an all composite hollow molded structure... That thing is toast! I only say that because of the gash at the wing root that goes approx. 20-30% into the wing chord. You will have to do some serious repair and restructuring to repair the loss of strength there. The rest or the wing doesnt look horrible, but not an easy repair either.
#22

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From: Holland Patent,
NY
Mike,
I recommend repairing it after reading an excellent article on Composite Wing Repair in the latest issue of "Flying Models" magazine(Feb 2014). Greg Moore, the author, describes a method of similar/worst damage repair on the wing of his CARF Flash. The article details the repair with 12 photos of each step plus narrative. The fix was flight proven for 6 seasons. Might be worth a try on saving your airframe and gear.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
I recommend repairing it after reading an excellent article on Composite Wing Repair in the latest issue of "Flying Models" magazine(Feb 2014). Greg Moore, the author, describes a method of similar/worst damage repair on the wing of his CARF Flash. The article details the repair with 12 photos of each step plus narrative. The fix was flight proven for 6 seasons. Might be worth a try on saving your airframe and gear.
Rgds,
Art ARRO
#23
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (34)
Thanks guys, So I 95% sure now I Know what killed my baby, It was a combo of me and the prefouse owner.
When I got the jet, I new better, but I could not remove the 2 large side tanks to replace the fuel lines, as they are curved to fit the side of the plane, and the prefouse owner did not use slicone like I would of, but also used some type of expoxy and I could not remove the tanks.
They worked fine for my AMT but I the P80 useing a little more fuel was all that was needed. As I was takeing the jet apart last night, both sadle tanks still had were 1/2 full of fuel even after I emptyem after the crash.
Even now I cant get them out, if I wanted to with out distroying the sides of the jet.
It sucks more when its your falt. LOL
When I got the jet, I new better, but I could not remove the 2 large side tanks to replace the fuel lines, as they are curved to fit the side of the plane, and the prefouse owner did not use slicone like I would of, but also used some type of expoxy and I could not remove the tanks.
They worked fine for my AMT but I the P80 useing a little more fuel was all that was needed. As I was takeing the jet apart last night, both sadle tanks still had were 1/2 full of fuel even after I emptyem after the crash.
Even now I cant get them out, if I wanted to with out distroying the sides of the jet.
It sucks more when its your falt. LOL
#24

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From: Latrobe,
PA
Mike, just an FYI....
Along with the AMT's being the king of longevity, and "Fuel N' Fly"..... they are also the UNDISPUTED KING of no flame-outs. I can watch my AT-180 pass air bubbles in the fuel lines, with nothing more than a burble in the noise. Most other engines can't do that.
So you are right... if you had a small leak in the tubing... the Jet Cat wouldn't like it.
Along with the AMT's being the king of longevity, and "Fuel N' Fly"..... they are also the UNDISPUTED KING of no flame-outs. I can watch my AT-180 pass air bubbles in the fuel lines, with nothing more than a burble in the noise. Most other engines can't do that.
So you are right... if you had a small leak in the tubing... the Jet Cat wouldn't like it.
#25
Sounds like your cluck got stuck or something in the tank. Mine did that last week due to the bvm tubing that expands. I ended landing with a full main tank and half empty saddles creating a WAY off CG!



