Hi Guys.
For those that use the mixing nozzle's when you have finished gluing just rap the nozzle up in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer, and just continue on next time the Hysol won't go off in the freezer.
Cheers
Mav

Here is an old Six-10 sample I hit repeatedly with an X-acto knife til the blade broke. It's like a very hard plastic.
The filled hole is about 3/8" and the glue didn't sag out of the hole. I've also made some beautiful fillets but have only used it for repairs and not a lot of actual building so far.

I got mine at Johnstown Dist. also but there was another thread a while ago with other sources.

PS
No special gun required. Use any caulk gun, with or without tips.

Iots of good information in this thread, but I think Falcons comment above is the most relevant..
A well prepared joint using an average quality glue, will be much stronger than a poorly prepared join using a high quality glue. Like all things in life preparation is everything.

I use Hysol with good results., but I also use West epoxy, mixed with glue powder, for a lot of critical glue jobs. I could not tell you which is stronger, but a well fitted West Epoxy/powder joint is damn hard to remove.. The ply will break out before the glue lets go..

won't go off in the freezer........

Question is does it adversley affect the Hysol being at this temp?

marcs

I too use structural Acrylic 2 part adhesive. The one I use is very quick setting, 5 minutes and full strength in 2 hours. It is very good at getting a bond to epoxy, metal and wood. It is thinner than Hysol and should be used on parts that are reasonably close fitting. I have used it to secure fuel bungs in Fibreglass tanks. One of the best uses is fitting catches where it gets a good grip of both the plastic and the Fibreglass. It can be held in place by hand while it sets. The 2 parts are pink and green and it makes purple when mixed. I have used it to glue in formers and will really speed up the building time.

http://media.wix.com/ugd/f1f35a_09d1...bdea51cebd.pdf

The downside is it gets hot when it sets, it is very smelly, not good for indoors, the wife will not like it. Do not dribble it on a painted surface.

We modellers tend to be very conservative and will not often try new products. The world of adhesives has changed a lot recently and there are many good products out there. I also use Hysol 9466 for general wood gluing. It is nice and thick and does not sag much.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1322559.pdf


John

Other than the acrylic adhesives mentioned so far everything else has been epoxy based, with that said it should be noted that there are laminating epoxies that can be thickened with cab, milled fibers or micro balloons to mention a couple, or there are gluing epoxies that are specifically formulated for bonding things together. Last there are structural epoxy based adhesives available with outstanding performance numbers. Finding the right material for the job is key in many applications but probably not so much with our models, I say that because most all these adhesives if properly mixed, and properly applied to a well prepared surface are far stronger then the substrate we are bonding together in the first place.

One of the 3M structural bonding adhesives we use on a daily basis must be re-certified periodically do to shelf life issues, to perform the re-certification we cut two each pieces of .100" thick 2024 T3 aluminum 5.00" long X 2.00" wide, we then place the adhesive along the 5.00" axis only .500" wide. so what I am saying is that the bonded area is only 1/2" X 5" long per the testing specification, after the specified cure we clamp the test coupon in our calibrated testing fixture and pull to a minimum of 3000 lbs. sustained in the witness of our inspection personnel as the qualifier for certification purposes. Now here is the kicker, our load cell bottoms out at 5500 lbs. and with the load cell bottomed out with these samples still in the fixture I have never witnessed one fail and we have been doing this for many years. So you see this would also work great in our models but as with most adhesives available, way overkill. I would say this, if you are going to laminate then use epoxy laminating resin, if you are going to bond something together then use epoxy gluing resin, or acrylic gluing adhesive, or epoxy structural adhesive.

Bob

A few years ago when i got my first tube of Hysol I did a little test of it in compariosn to Devcon 30 minute epoxy. Using each glue I stuck a piece of 1/4" balsa end on to a piece of epoxy glass board, and left them for a couple of days. I then pushed the top end of the balsa stick to see how much effort it would take to either break the wood or the glue joint. The devcon joint snapped cleanly away from the board with just a little force taking a perfect imprint of it and leaving no devcon at all on the board. It had barely stuck at all The Hysol required a lot more effort and tore very thin bits of the board surface with it. Therefore in my experience Hysol sticks to fibreglass much better than normal epoxy, it isn't simply epoxy with thickeners.

Your right it is also the proper surface preparation, and mix ratio needed as I already stated. I have not used 30 minute Devcon in many years, but if you were able to pull balsa away from a composite substrate that easily; then there was something wrong anyway...

Bob

Does not surprise me one bit, that's what I would expect.

Hysol is just a brand name - but of a line of well formulated adhesive systems from a competent commercial manufacturer. Chosen correctly for the application I would expect them to consistently meet or exceed the properties of anyone's System X, 30-minute wonder bond, or other general purpose retail systems.

There are different base epoxy resins, reactive and non-reactive diluents, coupling agents, rubber modifiers (tougheners), wetting agents, bla bla, plus the the thing that you never see in these types of forum discussion is the fact that there are choices in curative chemistry (not just reaction time) - it takes two to tango in a two part system. A lot of your retail grade xx-minute epoxies are simple resin downpacks with a blend or neat downpacked curative. I don't suggest this is a universal truth but it applies in many cases. And this is why, although those systems will work for almost anybody and have decent properties, they are nowhere optimum for many uses. The truth rears its head in situations that truly challenge the material properties. I'd say the vast majority of epoxy bonds that ever fail in modeldom are due to misapplication or inadequate surface prep.

Guys I used to sell two methacrylate products by Permabond, both were superb but just a word of advise, they are not wonderful when glueing wood/ply as they contain a self etch chemical which tends to get absorbed into wood and then leaves the bond weakened as a result, it bonds composites, steel and aluminium superbly, just not wood - as a result its no good for most former work!

It does tend to heat so if you are using it to glue parts to fuselages you will see over time quite a surface 'ripple' where heat and shrinkage mark the fuselage, one final and more important note, once the joint is made it MUST NOT be disturbed until cured, the bond has to happen without movement otherwise the strength will be dramatically reduced - I spent a long time speaking to manufacturers around this topic. With 9462 you can re-position the parts until it becomes fairly tacky without any issues of strength being compromised.

Here is a link to the product I mention (re-branded now).

marcs

http://www.multibondsolutions.co.uk/...020-amber.html