Habu 32X
#151
Thanks for the info.
I am looking for stuff on using a tail cone to the motor and EDF unit, such as the one that Tam sells.
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...roducts_id=711
Wanted to know how it looks with and without one. I am planning on going without since I will use a 40mm fan on the ESC under the battery tray instead of putting it in the tail cone like Tam does with the TJ80s.
I am looking for stuff on using a tail cone to the motor and EDF unit, such as the one that Tam sells.
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...roducts_id=711
Wanted to know how it looks with and without one. I am planning on going without since I will use a 40mm fan on the ESC under the battery tray instead of putting it in the tail cone like Tam does with the TJ80s.
Last edited by SushiHunter; 01-13-2015 at 02:07 PM.
#152
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Habu 32X nose gear door demo
Just finished installing the nosegear retract, and made my own retract door. I found it tricky to make an effective gear door closer without using a 2nd servo. I'm trying to keep the weight down. This system is working for about 30 cycles so far, no problem. Here's a video. http://youtu.be/wLiLpM6KzDE
#153
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Very nice. Here is another option for those looking for one, I am installing this on mine.
http://www.effluxrc.com/Habu-32-Nose...or-HABND-1.htm
http://www.effluxrc.com/Habu-32-Nose...or-HABND-1.htm
Just finished installing the nosegear retract, and made my own retract door. I found it tricky to make an effective gear door closer without using a 2nd servo. I'm trying to keep the weight down. This system is working for about 30 cycles so far, no problem. Here's a video. http://youtu.be/wLiLpM6KzDE
#154
My Feedback: (3)
The Efflux system looks a bit rough to me. I don't like tying things to the retract. Also, bungees lose their elasticity, especially if you store the plane with the gear closed. My spring will never lose it's tension as long as it's metal is not yielded. Also, the efflux door can flop around and rub on the strut during takeoff and landings because nothing holds it open. On my system, the spring I used holds the door locked open by taking advantage of the spring's natural ability to snap straight once the door is open. It never rubs on the strut once the gear is out. Also, one has to sand smooth and somehow fill the scar left by having their bungee poke thru the hole in the door. I also wonder how securely the door is held shut once the gear is retracted due to the location of that hole in the door. Maybe none of these concerns are going to show up, so let us know how it works.
#155
Just finished installing the nosegear retract, and made my own retract door. I found it tricky to make an effective gear door closer without using a 2nd servo. I'm trying to keep the weight down. This system is working for about 30 cycles so far, no problem. Here's a video. http://youtu.be/wLiLpM6KzDE
Here's the video of the magnet assist that I saw on youtube some months back. I did mine basically the same way. On mine though, I used metal wire with a spring within the linkage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZlJXHYaYEs
Last edited by SushiHunter; 01-20-2015 at 09:10 AM.
#156
My Feedback: (3)
Hi SushiHunter,
I watched the video link you provided. It seems to work ok. Reliability is the most important thing. it's simple and doesn't rely on an extra servo, so that's good. What I don't like about it is the door is constantly rubbing on that block, and the door will flap back and forth during steering. I like the spring because the same thing that holds the door shut is also what holds it open. Completely elegant, from a design point of view. On the other hand, if I was as good a pilot as I am a door designer, I'd still have a silver-red Habu instead of a yellow one. ha ha.
I watched the video link you provided. It seems to work ok. Reliability is the most important thing. it's simple and doesn't rely on an extra servo, so that's good. What I don't like about it is the door is constantly rubbing on that block, and the door will flap back and forth during steering. I like the spring because the same thing that holds the door shut is also what holds it open. Completely elegant, from a design point of view. On the other hand, if I was as good a pilot as I am a door designer, I'd still have a silver-red Habu instead of a yellow one. ha ha.
#157
Hi SushiHunter,
I watched the video link you provided. It seems to work ok. Reliability is the most important thing. it's simple and doesn't rely on an extra servo, so that's good. What I don't like about it is the door is constantly rubbing on that block, and the door will flap back and forth during steering. I like the spring because the same thing that holds the door shut is also what holds it open. Completely elegant, from a design point of view. On the other hand, if I was as good a pilot as I am a door designer, I'd still have a silver-red Habu instead of a yellow one. ha ha.
I watched the video link you provided. It seems to work ok. Reliability is the most important thing. it's simple and doesn't rely on an extra servo, so that's good. What I don't like about it is the door is constantly rubbing on that block, and the door will flap back and forth during steering. I like the spring because the same thing that holds the door shut is also what holds it open. Completely elegant, from a design point of view. On the other hand, if I was as good a pilot as I am a door designer, I'd still have a silver-red Habu instead of a yellow one. ha ha.
Another very important thing is the hinges used. I got some really cool hinges from my local hobby shop which pulls the gear door completely flush with the outside of the fuse when closed but when opening, pushes the door out and away from the fuse.
The hinges I used are almost like the ones shown below. The actual ones I used are slightly different, but this type is very close:
Last edited by SushiHunter; 01-20-2015 at 12:48 PM.
#158
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Winston Salem, NC
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I played with a nose gear door and final realized it was not worth the hassle as I could not get it to work properly 100% of the time without a servo, it might work fine on the ground but once airborne it would get caught up by turbulence etc. This is just my personal opinion.
David, how do you secure your fuel cell/tank? I have removed the battery tray and fit the tank in that location, but I am uncertain of how to securely mount it, Velcro? Sorry for my ignorance, this is my first turbine build.
I officially started my build last night.
David, how do you secure your fuel cell/tank? I have removed the battery tray and fit the tank in that location, but I am uncertain of how to securely mount it, Velcro? Sorry for my ignorance, this is my first turbine build.
I officially started my build last night.
Last edited by ACE51; 02-03-2015 at 06:47 AM.
#160
My Feedback: (3)
Here is a link to the Tamjets landing gear and door setup video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL-63z6_rBk
#161
My Feedback: (3)
With velcro, the weak link isn't usually the loop and pile but it's the double sticky tape holding to the fiberglass. Especially if it's not a flat surface. if you're not certain, use goop brand glue. It's semi flexible, clear, and sticks especially well to fiberglass even if the fiberglass gets bumped from the outside
#162
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Winston Salem, NC
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Thanks for the advice, I'll epoxy the lower section of velcro to the fiberglass or search for an alternative.
...now, on receiver power. I have been using 800 mAh 2S lipos and a 10A BEC, I have read about a few BEC failures and have considered going to a 1100 mah LIFE pack straight to the receiver however, the A4030 servos that I use are HV and put out their best speed/power at 8.4V, the life would only be putting out 6.6V, I do not think I am experienced enough to notice a difference, but I think it would be best to "use what you paid for." Has anyone here actually ever had a BEC failure?
Edit, just dawned on me, would it be better to plug my lipo straight into the receiver, should be around 8.4V fully charged.
...now, on receiver power. I have been using 800 mAh 2S lipos and a 10A BEC, I have read about a few BEC failures and have considered going to a 1100 mah LIFE pack straight to the receiver however, the A4030 servos that I use are HV and put out their best speed/power at 8.4V, the life would only be putting out 6.6V, I do not think I am experienced enough to notice a difference, but I think it would be best to "use what you paid for." Has anyone here actually ever had a BEC failure?
Edit, just dawned on me, would it be better to plug my lipo straight into the receiver, should be around 8.4V fully charged.
Last edited by ACE51; 02-03-2015 at 11:34 AM.
#164
My Feedback: (3)
http://youtu.be/1d-cwZVbm9Q
To use a 2S lipo for the receiver, don't forget to check the receiver voltage specs too(as opposed to just the servos). My last Habu used a regulator with a separate 2S battery, but I didn't like the extra weight. This time, I'm using a Castle HV with a 20 amp BEC built in. Lightest setup I can imagine. Weight matters. It's all about the Weight, not the trouble not the trouble.
Here's video of my nosegear door setup. Similar to the Tamjet, but using an off the shelf spring.
Here's video of my nosegear door setup. Similar to the Tamjet, but using an off the shelf spring.
#172
My Feedback: (3)
"If you're using HV servos, why use a BEC at all? Just plug your 2S Lipo straight into the receiver. Am I missing something?"
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Because you can save the weight of an extra battery. Remember, batteries don't get any lighter when they're empty. The BEC is already there anyway, so why not use it?
************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************
Because you can save the weight of an extra battery. Remember, batteries don't get any lighter when they're empty. The BEC is already there anyway, so why not use it?
#173
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mooresville, NC
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"If you're using HV servos, why use a BEC at all? Just plug your 2S Lipo straight into the receiver. Am I missing something?"
************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************
Because you can save the weight of an extra battery. Remember, batteries don't get any lighter when they're empty. The BEC is already there anyway, so why not use it?
************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************
Because you can save the weight of an extra battery. Remember, batteries don't get any lighter when they're empty. The BEC is already there anyway, so why not use it?
#174
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Winston Salem, NC
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Finished the 32X-T build, the wife was out of town this weekend... I was not able to find pictures of anyone's layout/turbine support mounting so hopefully these pictures will be helpful to anyone wanted to do a conversion, although I'm sure Dave will post pictures of his setup. 128 OZ full fuel AUW. CG is 110 with full tanks and 120 empty, had to add 5 OZ of weight to the nose next to the nose wheel retract.
... now I see that Tam Jet has a Kevlar 32OZ tank for the Habu's
... now I see that Tam Jet has a Kevlar 32OZ tank for the Habu's
Last edited by ACE51; 03-14-2015 at 07:28 PM.