rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Guys, I'm thinking I will just use the two side tanks for fuel and the center tank for smoke. Just the side tanks have 9.5 min of fuel (208 oz.) if I burn the P-200 at full throttle (22 oz. per min) the whole time!!! Plus, I am having a hard time fitting the Smoke Tank over the intake. It causes deflection in the intake at the seam to the ByPass and I really don't want to remove any more material from the top flange to allow the tank some room to shift, for the sake of the Turbine hatch being solid there.

Or, I can scrap using Smoke...but that would not be near as fun!

Rex

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

flymanjg,

Can you post some photos of how you mounted the front of the pipe behind the rear landing gear former for the B300F install. I have to do the same thing. Any photos would be great.

Thanks
Gary

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

Viper as you can see from the photos above, I extended the rails back past 1 inch or so of where the Tam pime mount lungs would rest. the extension was done by adding a 1/8 inch aircraft grade ply tongue hysoled to the bottom of where the carbon fiber rail ended. Then glued a 3/16 ply piece on top of the tongue to be at the same level as the top of the 3/16 inch CF rail. Ply is much easier to screw into than CF. Since I had measured the rails to be square and run straight back at the same width, it was just a matter of measuring the diameter or width of the mounting holes on the pipe tabs and making sure that the turbine rails ended up underneath the pipe mounting tabs. I glued a balsa spacer together and taped it to the front of the bell mouth as you can see in the photo. that gave me the required 3/4 inch space (as per Tam) between the end of the turbine nozzle and the face of the bell mouth. it was just of matter of placing the turbine in its position then sliding the pipe forward until the balsa spacer touched the end of the turbine nozzle. I looked from the rear of the pipe forward then adjusted the side to side of horizontal plane to be centered on the nozzle. I maked the pipe mounting hole on the plywood tongue and drilled a 1/16 hole. the pipe is held in place my two #3 servo screws into the aircraft grade ply. The pipe mounting is rock solid. I hope that helps.

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

flymanjg,

Thanks for the great pictures. I was thinking something along the same lines as extending the engine rails aft to the pipe mount. I was thinking of using aluminum rails but I like the carbon fiber. I have mounted Tam pipes like this before. Your photos definitely help as I have not started my build yet but hope to start in JAN after I get the current project done.

Some questions if you can:

What are the dimensions of the Tam pipe, inlet diameter, exhaust diameter, and length? Was it a stock pipe or custom built for the 300?

Where did you get the carbon fiber engine rails. Did you make them? If so how did you make them and what did you use to cut and drill them?

I see you cut out the slot in the rear gear formers into a notch for removing the engine rails. Are you concerned about concentration of stress around the end of the notch?

How are you setting up the fuel system with the three tanks?

Are you using an AB LED ring? If so what size and where did you get one to go around the 300 pipe?

Has the jet flow yet? If so how did the 300 do?

What is the empty ant take off weight?

Thanks for your help.

Gary

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

Gary,
1. The Tam pipe came out to be 37 3/4 inches from face of bell mouth to end of pipe. Tam has the interior dimensions. It was custom made by Tam at my direction on the length.

2. I cut the CF rails from a solid piece of CF that was 3/16 inch thick 12X12. Purchased it from "Dragon Plate" Used a ceramic jig saw blade in my rockwell blade runner. You will go through several of these as the CF is tough on the blades. you can also get Permagrit jig saw blades specially made for CF at "Fiberglast.com".

3. I had no concerns cutting the rear turbine rail former. The rail is bolted to an additional block of wood that I hysoled in place below the rail at the rear former.

4. I used JMP Hi-flow fittings on My F-16 and used BVM Hi Flow fittings on this customer's Thunder Bird F-16

5. The Stock AB rings that Skymaster sells for this airplane will fit the Tam Pipe.

6. I will fly it probably with in a month

7 Unk on the weight yet.

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

flymanjg,

Thanks for the info. It really helped. I talked to Tam today and he said the intake bell mouth was 4" or about 101 mm and the exhaust is 3.75" or about 95 mm. This will fit the stock Skymaster AB LED ring OK. I will order mine in JAN.

Gary

heraldoboldrin

I need some tips... i am doing the setup of my F16...
I will use regular flaperon (instead of taileron)..

Slat i only get 21mm instead of the 25mm that the manual ask.. so i put 15mm 1st position and 21mm in the second.
Flaperon, if i put 75mm of flap i can't get aileron together (flaperon), i setup 25mm of flap 1st position, and 50mm in the second (both mix with slat)
Aileron.. manual ask 17mm each side.. (measure inside or outside?)
Elevator and rudder as manual.

Anybody can help me?

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Just got this info from John at Skymaster about the 300 pipe.

Hi Gary


inlet dia.: 120mm; outer dia.: 125mm. length without bellmouth: 930mm


it comes with bellmouth.


The cost of P300 tailpipe is $295.00 incl. freight.

Best regards

John
Skymaster/X-Treme/Skyemaster
http://www.skymasterjet.com/


The stock Skymaster LED AB ring I got with the kit has a 122mm inside diameter.

Can anybody tell me what the outside diameter of the Skymaster 300 pipe is at the exhaust end? I would like to find out if the Skymaster AB ring will fit around it?

Thanks Gary

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

What is the diameter of the tam pipe? will the bypass also work with the tam pipe?
this is for the 300N

FenderBean

the real f-16 doesn't use flaps just the slats and ailerons. From what I have seen using flaps makes it hard to get the jet to come down.

marquisvns

Keith, if you google image F-16 landing, I think you would have a hard time finding one without flaps and slats deployed.

Regards,
Barry

FenderBean

Yeah I knew they had slats which work on AOA but wasnt tracking the flaperons, the person that told me was a f-16 pilot, maybe he meant they didnt have just a flap and aileron that it was actually both?

dubd

The truth is out there...

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

So is it flaps or flapperons on the full scale?

FenderBean

Bri from my readings it's flaperons

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

That's what I thought, and in normal flight is it tailerons and ailerons together??

FenderBean

Im not sure about the tailerons since the flaps are still working as ailerons when they are deployed.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

Leading edge flaps....... Not.......leading edge slats. A common typo

an F100 has Slats

keep the pics coming great project, can't wait to see them in person.

Mark Taylor

My Feedback: (2)

All the flight controls work together based on commands from the flight control computers. ( 3 each ) There is no flap switch, per say. The gear handle controls the flaps for a landing setting. In the gear down position, the flaps may follow the ailerons depending on pilot inputs and FC dampening. The stabs work the same way... they are mixed with the ailerons when the FC's deem it necessary. Both leading and trailing edge wing devices deploy based on AOA, speed and G-loading. Very complex, but what a jewel to fly!

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

flymanjg

My Feedback: (18)

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

As Mark said in full scale F-16 normal flaperon function is controlled by the gear handle. So for normal ops the flaperons are up when gear is up and function mostly as ailerons for roll control. There is an "alternate flap switch" which is small toggle on the left console that can be used to drop the flaperons when the gear handle is up. It is only use for non normal stuff and usually is never touched except for test flights. The flaperons will also blow up at higher speeds and then drop again as speed decreases if the alternate flap switch is used to deploy them. The blow up function is also tested on test flights.

This switch can be moved by poorly placed box lunch during an over ocean flight and you will see almost no change at cruise speed since the flaperons are blown almost all the way up…almost all the way...and can cause excessive fuel use until someone asks, Hey Lead, why are your flaps slightly down?….don't ask….

As Mark stated all the flight controls are mixed together to get max performance for what the pilot commands and what the flight control system allows. In certain situations the flight controls are doing opposite things than the pilot is doing with the stick. This is easy to demonstrate by a slow flight demo where the power is pulled, speed slowed, and altitude is held till reaching full aft stick input at the AOA limit. The jet will start to sink, nose is near level, stick is full aft, and the stab TE is nearly full down to keep the AOA from increasing over the AOA limit.

I think I remember that the LE flaps are 2° up when super sonic and the flaperons no longer work for roll, only differential stabs for roll when supersonic. The LE flaps are mostly controlled by AOA and speed except when on the ground. Its been too many years and I have forgotten a lot of the full scale stuff.

So how will I set my flight controls up on the RC jet?

On my 1/6 scale with no LE flaps I had the flaperons controlled like conventional flaps using my right slider. I used them for take off, slow speed at high AOA, and approach and landing like conventional flaps.

With the 1/5 scale using LE flaps I am thinking about using the gear switch to control the flaperon flap function as in the full scale. Since I can't use AOA to control the LE flaps I plan on using my right slider to control the LE flaps similar to conventional flaps for take off, slow speed at high AOA, and approach and landing. I don't think TE flaperons will be needed much as flaps during normal gear up flight but the LE flaps will be very handy for slow flight at high AOA.

For roll control I think I will use a full time mix on flaperons and stabs with the gear up similar to the full scale jet. WIth gear down I want to reduce or eliminate roll from flaperons and use differential stabs for roll when gear is down. My thinking is if you get into turbulence and have to give rapid roll inputs you will be also retracting a flap on one wing and loosing lift when at high AOA low and slow for approach.

My 1/5 scale ideas for now. Open for changes. Any suggestions from the guys who are already flying the 1/5 scale?

Gary

ravill

My Feedback: (11)

Flying man, your B300F is upside down.

I'm sure you haven't mounted it yet.