How To: Build a variable rate, reversible Fueling Station for you Jet!
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
How To: Build a variable rate, reversible Fueling Station for you Jet!
Hello Guys,
After having built several of these which are running with great success, i thought i'd do a build thread.
I always wanted to build a high quality fueling station, with variable rate control, reversible direction and on/off switching, so i went ahead and designed one as an integration of existing, extremely cheap off the shelf electronics.
The fueling station consits of the following parts:
1. Housing (i chose a nice aluminum box - 7$):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-White-E...0AAOSwv0tVVY1o
If you wish to save on cost, you can use a Hitec servo box, which is free with any servo
2. Servo Tester (for rate control) - 1.5$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Servo-...gAAOSwMmBV5AEW
3. 5K Potentiometer (more heavy duty than the original servo tester's pot) - 1$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5K-B5K-OHM-L...MAAOxyx0JTewtZ
4. Heavy Duty 3 position switch (ON-OFF-ON) - 4.2$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DPDT-On-Off-...MAAOSwyQtVlSYB
5. Brush motor Speed control - with internal UBEC to power the servo tester - 5$:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...USHED_ESC.html
6. Cap for Pot's neck (15 Cents):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-6mm-S...AAAOSweW5VK2jG
Total cost: about 19$ including the fancy Aluminum Housing.
The basic principles are rather straight forward - the speed control controls the rate, and the switch reverses direction.
Im adding a sketch of the system, and some pics of the internal electronics layout and the finished product.
Assembly instructions:
1. remove the servo tester's stock pot and solder your large 5K pot on a piece of servo wire in its place.
2. remove LED1 from servo tester, and solder it back on a piece of wire. this will be mounted on the side of the housing, viewable from the outside, and will act as a visual aid whenever your battery is connected.
3. drill holes in the side of the housing to hold the pot, the switch neck and the LED, per your preference.
4. Assemble everything as per the attached sketch. for a finishing touch i added a cap on the Pot's neck.
5. Mount to your fuel tank, and Enjoy
Thanks for watching.
After having built several of these which are running with great success, i thought i'd do a build thread.
I always wanted to build a high quality fueling station, with variable rate control, reversible direction and on/off switching, so i went ahead and designed one as an integration of existing, extremely cheap off the shelf electronics.
The fueling station consits of the following parts:
1. Housing (i chose a nice aluminum box - 7$):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-White-E...0AAOSwv0tVVY1o
If you wish to save on cost, you can use a Hitec servo box, which is free with any servo
2. Servo Tester (for rate control) - 1.5$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Servo-...gAAOSwMmBV5AEW
3. 5K Potentiometer (more heavy duty than the original servo tester's pot) - 1$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5K-B5K-OHM-L...MAAOxyx0JTewtZ
4. Heavy Duty 3 position switch (ON-OFF-ON) - 4.2$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DPDT-On-Off-...MAAOSwyQtVlSYB
5. Brush motor Speed control - with internal UBEC to power the servo tester - 5$:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...USHED_ESC.html
6. Cap for Pot's neck (15 Cents):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-6mm-S...AAAOSweW5VK2jG
Total cost: about 19$ including the fancy Aluminum Housing.
The basic principles are rather straight forward - the speed control controls the rate, and the switch reverses direction.
Im adding a sketch of the system, and some pics of the internal electronics layout and the finished product.
Assembly instructions:
1. remove the servo tester's stock pot and solder your large 5K pot on a piece of servo wire in its place.
2. remove LED1 from servo tester, and solder it back on a piece of wire. this will be mounted on the side of the housing, viewable from the outside, and will act as a visual aid whenever your battery is connected.
3. drill holes in the side of the housing to hold the pot, the switch neck and the LED, per your preference.
4. Assemble everything as per the attached sketch. for a finishing touch i added a cap on the Pot's neck.
5. Mount to your fuel tank, and Enjoy
Thanks for watching.
Last edited by i3dm; 11-12-2015 at 09:34 AM.
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Nice work. The block diagram comes up OK now - there was some kind of glitch before. No worries.
Oh, and I got to thinking that the use of one "slicwe" from a 3PDT On/Off/On toggle switch would allow you to keep the battery energy removed from the circuit entirely when in the OFF position.
Oh, and I got to thinking that the use of one "slicwe" from a 3PDT On/Off/On toggle switch would allow you to keep the battery energy removed from the circuit entirely when in the OFF position.
Last edited by 1Eye; 11-12-2015 at 02:42 PM.
#4
Just one small point with this circuit is that the lipo will slowly discharge through the ESC unless it's disconnected. When I built one of these a couple of years ago I managed to source a triple pole double throw switch and used the third pole to disconnect the lipo in the centre position. The battery can now be housed inside the enclosure with no need for access to disconnect.
Malcolm
Malcolm
#5
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Just one small point with this circuit is that the lipo will slowly discharge through the ESC unless it's disconnected. When I built one of these a couple of years ago I managed to source a triple pole double throw switch and used the third pole to disconnect the lipo in the centre position. The battery can now be housed inside the enclosure with no need for access to disconnect.
Malcolm
Malcolm
The problem with disconnecting the battery in the center position (or any position for that matter) is that these ESCs require "arming" (PWM 1000us signal) to start running, so after every disconnect of the lipo an arming cycle with the pot is required, this is no big deal once a day, but arming every time reverse the pump direction can become a pain.
#7
Actually I thought that was the case when I first built my unit but I quickly discovered that you just turn the pot all the way down to zero flow and from that position it will start again without rearming. Also if you reverse the direction with the switch and it passed through the off position it still stays armed and the pump reverses. At least on my particular ESC, I guess a capacitor somewhere is staying charged :-)
Malcolm
Malcolm
#11
Guys instead of using the little filters, a 1/4 inch gasoline filter will work very well and last longer and let you see if any trash gets in.. its kinda like a giant festo filter.. and its a couple bucks at the store.. 6mm will stretch over the barbs.. fyi..
Nice can I3DM
Nice can I3DM
#12
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Guys instead of using the little filters, a 1/4 inch gasoline filter will work very well and last longer and let you see if any trash gets in.. its kinda like a giant festo filter.. and its a couple bucks at the store.. 6mm will stretch over the barbs.. fyi..
Nice can I3DM
Nice can I3DM
Glad i now know of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-1-4-6-...BV6lC1&vxp=mtr
Last edited by i3dm; 11-16-2015 at 12:54 PM.
#14
My Feedback: (30)
Couple of questions
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
Last edited by erh7771; 12-20-2015 at 04:10 PM.
#15
Very Nice setup i3dm..
Has anyone incorporated a resettable counter in their fuel station so we can see how many milliliters (fl.oz.) we pump onboard and how much we take out??
Thanks
Has anyone incorporated a resettable counter in their fuel station so we can see how many milliliters (fl.oz.) we pump onboard and how much we take out??
Thanks
#16
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Couple of questions
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
#19
Couple of questions
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
1. where to get the brushed pump? Also, will any of these 12v pumps for fuel work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UNIVERSA...5WW-1g&vxp=mtr
2. How to plum the tank and its parts, also I have no idea where to get them from... I know where to get the tank from but not the cap or the fittings or the hoses... or the.. well
Thanks for any input
Hi do you know if these pump are reversible to enable the tanks to be emptied?
Regards,
Paul
#21
#23
If it's got the little motor and a geared or vaned pump it will probably work fine in reverse. Some of the automotive fuel pumps have check valves in them to make them function and I don't think they can be reversed.
#24
My Feedback: (41)
Well it's not as hazardous to play with Kero, diesel or Jet-A as it would be gasoline, but one of the reasons the commercial stuff is spendy is due to explosion proof switches and housings.
One other thing I've learned the hard way after starting to fly jets, is that you MUST either have a slow to medium flow rate pump or an adjustable speed pump to prevent putting too much vacuum on the tanks while defueling; they crack when subject to excessing vacuum as they weren't really designed for that.... Just a thought or two.
One other thing I've learned the hard way after starting to fly jets, is that you MUST either have a slow to medium flow rate pump or an adjustable speed pump to prevent putting too much vacuum on the tanks while defueling; they crack when subject to excessing vacuum as they weren't really designed for that.... Just a thought or two.
#25
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
Well it's not as hazardous to play with Kero, diesel or Jet-A as it would be gasoline, but one of the reasons the commercial stuff is spendy is due to explosion proof switches and housings.
One other thing I've learned the hard way after starting to fly jets, is that you MUST either have a slow to medium flow rate pump or an adjustable speed pump to prevent putting too much vacuum on the tanks while defueling; they crack when subject to excessing vacuum as they weren't really designed for that.... Just a thought or two.
One other thing I've learned the hard way after starting to fly jets, is that you MUST either have a slow to medium flow rate pump or an adjustable speed pump to prevent putting too much vacuum on the tanks while defueling; they crack when subject to excessing vacuum as they weren't really designed for that.... Just a thought or two.