New Composite ARF SU27
#628
I am making the weight easily removable. Ideally perhaps this winter I can make the stinger removable and move ECU and afterburner batteries back there and getting lighter ejection seats printed.
#630
My Feedback: (13)
I think I'm going to finally maiden my CARF SU-30 next week (bough plane second hand and had to do a lot of fixes..) The plane has 5.5. inch which causes to have excessive toe-in in order to fit the wheel well and not hit the doors. The mount of toe-in means that I need almost full power just to get it moving. Since I have two 160N turbines, I can brute force the takeoff. However I just don't think this will last without something coming off eventually.
Is there anyone using the 5.5 inch and can share any "tricks" to reduce the toe-in?
I read that many are using the Robart (?) 5 inch wheel. I many need to go that route, but i think that means I need to change the hubs and brakes system. The plan currently have converted Down & Locked with the brakes based on micro-servos...
Is there anyone using the 5.5 inch and can share any "tricks" to reduce the toe-in?
I read that many are using the Robart (?) 5 inch wheel. I many need to go that route, but i think that means I need to change the hubs and brakes system. The plan currently have converted Down & Locked with the brakes based on micro-servos...
The following 2 users liked this post by Maggoo811:
paulhat (09-24-2020),
skymaster68 (09-23-2020)
#632
I think I'm going to finally maiden my CARF SU-30 next week (bough plane second hand and had to do a lot of fixes..) The plane has 5.5. inch which causes to have excessive toe-in in order to fit the wheel well and not hit the doors. The mount of toe-in means that I need almost full power just to get it moving. Since I have two 160N turbines, I can brute force the takeoff. However I just don't think this will last without something coming off eventually.
Is there anyone using the 5.5 inch and can share any "tricks" to reduce the toe-in?
I read that many are using the Robart (?) 5 inch wheel. I many need to go that route, but i think that means I need to change the hubs and brakes system. The plan currently have converted Down & Locked with the brakes based on micro-servos...
Is there anyone using the 5.5 inch and can share any "tricks" to reduce the toe-in?
I read that many are using the Robart (?) 5 inch wheel. I many need to go that route, but i think that means I need to change the hubs and brakes system. The plan currently have converted Down & Locked with the brakes based on micro-servos...
#635
So again taking note from across the pond, I revisited the concept of adding lead to the tail. Moving the batteries back into the stinger would eliminate the need for adding lead to the model. To accomplish this, telescoping carbon fiber tubes were glued in place and secured between an added former in the stinger and between 2 formers in the fuse. A slotted 3D printed former was glued into the back after further reinforcement in the stinger. A removable sliding tray was made that will hold the lipos and make it easy to remove to charge outside the model. A single screw comes up from the bottom of the fuse to secure the stinger from sliding back.
#637
Jets Munt 166. I have a full custom printed cockpit which looks great but is a little heavy. In addition my CB400 is in the nose (300 grams) along with the Rx batteries. The ECU batteries and afterburner lights battery will go in the back
#638
I'm surprised to find out that some needed to add weight in the back. I'm building mine at the moment with tail vectoring, 2xjets munt 166.
I did some initial balancing (still no batteries, cockpit or UATs installed...) and looks like my nose requires about 2.7KG in order to get a CG of the front leading edge of the spar. What am I missing?
I did some initial balancing (still no batteries, cockpit or UATs installed...) and looks like my nose requires about 2.7KG in order to get a CG of the front leading edge of the spar. What am I missing?
#639
You have the batteries in the nose? you would need tail weight. You will probably go back on CARF's balance point too. Any fuel in the tank doing the balance? If not you are wasting your time doing the pre-check.
We have ended up with batteries around the removable inlet section
Dave
We have ended up with batteries around the removable inlet section
Dave
#640
that was without batteries, UAT and cockpit, no fuel tanks in yet. I'm guessing Those will weight:
500g - batteries
500g - cockpit
500g - UAT
500g - fuel tanks with some landing fuel.
So I'm still short about 700g. I just want to see if I'll need to add a front tray in the cone or not.
500g - batteries
500g - cockpit
500g - UAT
500g - fuel tanks with some landing fuel.
So I'm still short about 700g. I just want to see if I'll need to add a front tray in the cone or not.
#642
I started with my batteries up front and quickly found the manual CG was pretty nose heavy for my liking. I have a really nice but slightly heavy 3d printed cockpit as well though. My batteries are now mostly in the middle of the plane - initially I stuffed the stinger in the tail with quite a bit of lead. The plane seems very robust over CG.
#643
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We have ended up with batteries around the removable inlet section
Dave[/QUOTE]
good Idea placing the batteries in that area, never thought on doing that... any pictures of that set up Dave?
We have ended up with batteries around the removable inlet section
Dave[/QUOTE]
good Idea placing the batteries in that area, never thought on doing that... any pictures of that set up Dave?
#645
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: lage zwaluwe, NETHERLANDS
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Are you shutting the power " off " on the nose gear steering servo when the nose gear is retracting in or out. I have the electric carf gear. I bought the plane 2e hand. I notice that the steering point on the nose gear moves when the retract is going in or out.
Best regards Maikel
Best regards Maikel
#646
I've got the CARF electric gear and when retracted, you set the servo position through the controller. It binds unless you've set it to the point where there's no load on it.
#647
Hello everyone,
I've narrowed my next plane down to the Carf Su-30 or L-39, I really like the Su-30 however its a lot of money for myself to spend so I'm just trying to decide whats best for me.
How has everyone found the Su-30 reliability? can i fly this most second weekends no problem or is there a lot of maintenance with the gear, doors etc. I like how simple the L-39 is with 2 moving gear doors etc but i like the reliability of the twin turbine idea on an expensive jet anf Flankers have been my life long fav jet!
Is the Su-30 still easy to fly / land vs the l-39?
I've narrowed my next plane down to the Carf Su-30 or L-39, I really like the Su-30 however its a lot of money for myself to spend so I'm just trying to decide whats best for me.
How has everyone found the Su-30 reliability? can i fly this most second weekends no problem or is there a lot of maintenance with the gear, doors etc. I like how simple the L-39 is with 2 moving gear doors etc but i like the reliability of the twin turbine idea on an expensive jet anf Flankers have been my life long fav jet!
Is the Su-30 still easy to fly / land vs the l-39?
Last edited by su27flanker; 04-06-2021 at 02:05 PM.
#648
I’ve flown them both, both relatively easy to fly and handle. The SU will require more maintenance and the gear is more ‘fussy’ than the L-39, but both will operate as weekend machines. If your vehicle is large enough the SU-27/30 assembles quicker at the field.
Both aircraft have had updates to the gear over the last 12 months, so a lot of experience here won’t be on the current equipment
Dave
Both aircraft have had updates to the gear over the last 12 months, so a lot of experience here won’t be on the current equipment
Dave
#649
Many thanks Dave, have you flown the thrust vector version of the su-27/30?
I'm not a 3d guy but I do enjoy the extra manoeuvrability from videos ive seen on YouTube, but over all just looking for a big floaty light scale jet so either setup would be still great I’m sure!
I'm not a 3d guy but I do enjoy the extra manoeuvrability from videos ive seen on YouTube, but over all just looking for a big floaty light scale jet so either setup would be still great I’m sure!
#650
No, but one of my friends has one ( he flies the opposite mode to me) we converted after a season non vectored. It has two JetCat P-140’s so not enough to hover properly, but it does nice flat spins, and back flips tighter than non vectored.