Fb t-33
09-21-2018, 07:15 AM
#28
Hi Vincent. I fly off grass and wanted thrust. Unlike a lot of my buds who have an on/off throttle I know how to use the left stick. You flying any Migs? Thinking about another FB Mig 21. The new layup is lighter and has CG laminate formers. FB quality continues to improve.
Vin
01-06-2019, 04:59 PM
#29
Well the T33 finally flew......and great at that. 2 flights for LTMA cert. Added 3 clicks of elev and 1 aileron on first flight. Added 3oz wt to nose for 2nd flt and removed the trim. Flew 6 min and landed with a full saddle + 1/3 in the other. Main tank was replaced with a 50oz Dubro. So I used about 90oz for the flights. I did knock out a gear mount with a less than perfect landing that should be easily repaired.
Last edited by tp777fo; 01-06-2019 at 07:01 PM.
01-08-2019, 09:15 AM
#32
Well the T33 finally flew......and great at that. 2 flights for LTMA cert. Added 3 clicks of elev and 1 aileron on first flight. Added 3oz wt to nose for 2nd flt and removed the trim. Flew 6 min and landed with a full saddle + 1/3 in the other. Main tank was replaced with a 50oz Dubro. So I used about 90oz for the flights. I did knock out a gear mount with a less than perfect landing that should be easily repaired.
01-08-2019, 10:26 AM
#34
About 3mm looks like 1/8 “ placed flat on top of the carbon and I think I did square profile hard wood element from the bottom using the six10 West system epoxy glue much stronger than the areopoxy will post some pictures on weekend , the best improvement is the carbon twine soaked in finishing epoxy and placed all inside the wing it create a cage preventing it from the wing split it the former wants to rotate when bad landing you should do all that before the maiden flight but now if they damaged maybe will be much easier to remove the retracts flat formers and make all new with all the modes , I got it damaged bad with wing spread but now they sold ready for not so perfect landings.
01-09-2019, 01:42 AM
#40
You appear to be in a similar situation I was in when first flying the Fb T33 back in 2010. I have learnt a lot since then, I'm happy to share my setup but I suggest you use all of it.
Cg is 220mm from wing Le, Flaps 80-85degrees 1/2" Crow, I, particularly when landing on tarmac runways land with speed boards deployed, I also land with the model in a nose heavy
configuration as I prefer to land holding a fair bit of up elevator. The idea with this model is to create as much drag as possible so when at the final part of the flare it just stops flying
making it much less likely to bounce (a condition this model has always had right back to the BVM days) on finals mine needs 3/4 throttle just to keep it flying! I haven't had to repair
my wings once since using this set up.
Cg is 220mm from wing Le, Flaps 80-85degrees 1/2" Crow, I, particularly when landing on tarmac runways land with speed boards deployed, I also land with the model in a nose heavy
configuration as I prefer to land holding a fair bit of up elevator. The idea with this model is to create as much drag as possible so when at the final part of the flare it just stops flying
making it much less likely to bounce (a condition this model has always had right back to the BVM days) on finals mine needs 3/4 throttle just to keep it flying! I haven't had to repair
my wings once since using this set up.
01-09-2019, 05:38 AM
#42
Thanks Mick. I had my cg at 220 but moved it a tad forward after the first flight by adding 3oz to the nose. It was a wee bit tail heavy for my style of flying. I will take your advice on the flaps and crow. I am going to laminate the gear mounts with 3mm G10 per Sysieks suggestion. I had to order some axles for the main and nose but should be back in the air soon.
Last edited by tp777fo; 01-09-2019 at 05:40 AM.
01-15-2019, 10:20 AM
#46
Ok pictures ,they all have carbon fiber rope in corners and all around where the plywood touched the skin and formers from the flap servo side the same,the little door was removed and the most important thing is to make the center doors to close after all gear revolutions so I take off and land with them close.
01-15-2019, 10:33 AM
#47
+there vertical thick plywood under the retracts flat formers ,they have pockets for better glue joints and if I remember correctly I inserted 1/16 carbonfiber rots to prevent plywood joints from moving there under the G-10 plate. Hope this will help don’t be afraid to remove all broken plywood and replace ,to make the plywood super strong soak it up with thin ca glue before and let them completely dry do some notches with dremel before the epoxy.
so the have stronger connection with all the surrounding material 