Is there any reason I can't use a Carf metal control rod clevis with metal servo arms?

Do you mean the square aluminium clevis? If you grease the pin on installation, no problem at all.

No I am taking about the spring steel metal clevis that comes with the rebel 2m.

If you can get an aluminium arm with a 1.4mm hole, yes…but you might struggle.
All my customers use HD nylon arms on their Rebel 2m.

Like the Dubro ones

Like Dave said, get your incremental drill bite set up and measure the pin diameter . Those metal clevises are far superior for strength than a plastic ball joint or clevis are.

All the decent aluminum arms I have found are threaded for 3mm or 4-40. And they tend to be thicker than the metal clevis can go over.
I had found non-threaded aluminum arms but they were pretty thin and weak and I wouldn't use them.
Promodeler sells good quality plastic arms w/ 25 tooth spline.
3D models are using long threaded aluminum arms with ball links on both ends. The geometry between the servo mount and surface horns is optimized for this setup. I find the jets are setup for the clevis on one end or both.
I'd like to use metal arms if I could find what I needed. I've had plastic arms fracture. They become brittle when it is cold.

Have you checked out the MKS carbon arms ar not threaded
https://www.mksservosusa.com/home.php?cat=33

Futaba and Savox arms are brittle. If you buy the HD Dubro ones they have a high fibre content

If you read RCJi you would know my solutions. Just found I still had the photo…
Buy M3 threaded nylon bar, drill it 1.4mm. Screw a length into M3 threaded secraft arm, shot of Pink Zap to hold and slice off with sharp scalpel.
You can then use a CARF/German made M3 clevis.

This shows Futaba arms are brittle. Intairco small aluminium arm.

Dave, you have a photo of this mod?

Errr the one above?

Ok, I see it now. I misunderstood what you were describing. Your just making a nylon bushing to fit the metal clevis. Got it now.
Thanks

Yes. It’s a way of using M3 threaded horns. The nylon insert actually gives a better fit and zero slop if you drill the hole accurately.

D

NICE! I was literally just thinking about this the other day..

+1 on the MKS carbon arms

If you use a pin clevis with a carbon arm…it will wear the pin. So keep an eye on clevis life.

You can use some dielectric grease or servo gear train grease would prolong wear. It's an easy inspection to check for play which should do every some may flights.

👍

This is a cool concept. Not sure I can accurately drill a 1.4mm hole in the center of a 3mm nylon bar but if I can, I will try this!

I would glue the threaded rod in the arm first. Then drill a smaller pilot hole thru the nylon. The arm can be held in a small vise, which makes it easier to control.

Or, if you have a lathe, then dill the rod in it.

Yes. I use a lathe, but if you have a drill press you stand a chance of doing it.

Anybody have a link to threaded 3mm nylon rod?

Search for 3mm nylon bolt or screws.

In the U.K. we can buy 300mm lengths on Amazon…guess metric rod won’t be that common. I did see some at Grainger at $50 a meter which is a little costly!

Google is your friend LOL

https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-ful...tr/i/G3211512/