Getting rid of paint
#1
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From: Pensacola,
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I tried searching the threads and came up with a couple of different ways to do this but I wanted to know what the dudes with the most fiberglass parts were doing. I want to repaint my fuse but its got two coats of paint on it already....should I just sand it as best I can then prime and paint....use lacere (sp) thinner and hope for the best then paint up. What type of chemicals are you guys using for jobs like this that wont ruin your fiberglass? Thanks.
Luis
Luis
#2

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I used Klean-Strip fiberglass paint stripper to strip down an outer wing panel prior to repainting after repairs. Seemed to work pretty good. Very messy though. This stuff is sort of a gel. Some stubborn spots required several coats of stripper but it eventually all came off. This was borrowed from a friend who used it to completely strip a Uravitch T-33.
#3

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When I stripped a polyester fuselage I used a product specifically for fiberglass. I can't remember the name of it----I bought it at an automotive paint/supply store. I don't know if it would work on an epoxy fuselage. From what I've been told if you use the wrong stripper you could ruin your part. I've also used a razor blade to scrape paint off with good results. You hold the blade about 90 degrees to the surface and scrape like you would if you were removing a parting seam line. If the paint is brittle and not too thick the razor blade method works pretty well. Good luck!!!!
Kevin
Kevin
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From: Pensacola,
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The paint is pretty brittle...think I'll go with the razor edge method. Im not the builder or original painter of this jet so I'd hate to ruin it with a poor choice of thinner. Thanks for all your help.....off to walmart to get razors. Thanks again!!
Luis
Luis
#5

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BULLDOG?? I used that from the local auto parts. it is used to remove paint from bumpers on cars. If you go that route. Make sure you test it on a small area first. Kind of messy and in the end you will need to sand anyway.
Turbulence
Turbulence
ORIGINAL: Kevin Greene
When I stripped a polyester fuselage I used a product specifically for fiberglass. I can't remember the name of it----I bought it at an automotive paint/supply store. I don't know if it would work on an epoxy fuselage. From what I've been told if you use the wrong stripper you could ruin your part. I've also used a razor blade to scrape paint off with good results. You hold the blade about 90 degrees to the surface and scrape like you would if you were removing a parting seam line. If the paint is brittle and not too thick the razor blade method works pretty well. Good luck!!!!
Kevin
When I stripped a polyester fuselage I used a product specifically for fiberglass. I can't remember the name of it----I bought it at an automotive paint/supply store. I don't know if it would work on an epoxy fuselage. From what I've been told if you use the wrong stripper you could ruin your part. I've also used a razor blade to scrape paint off with good results. You hold the blade about 90 degrees to the surface and scrape like you would if you were removing a parting seam line. If the paint is brittle and not too thick the razor blade method works pretty well. Good luck!!!!
Kevin
#6

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Ralph,
Mine wasn't BullDog brand....Probably the same type that Steve Collins used. I remember the quart can having a picture of a Corvette on it. It worked well but as you said it is messy and you end up sanding some spots anyway.
Luis,
Be carefull not to get too aggessive with the razor blades...You can weaken the fiberglass if you put too much pressure on it. Curved areas were very easy....The flat areas gave me the most trouble.
Mine wasn't BullDog brand....Probably the same type that Steve Collins used. I remember the quart can having a picture of a Corvette on it. It worked well but as you said it is messy and you end up sanding some spots anyway.
Luis,
Be carefull not to get too aggessive with the razor blades...You can weaken the fiberglass if you put too much pressure on it. Curved areas were very easy....The flat areas gave me the most trouble.
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From: Odenton,
MD
I just removed the paint from the fin of a plane without damage to the fiberglass underneath using Floquil Polly S Brand "Easy Lift Off". It is available at some better stocked Hobby shops - especially ones that cater to model train folk. It is non volitile, odorless, and doesn't attack fiberglass, epoxy, plastic, etc. Good stuff - a bit messy and time consuming but worked great.
Good luck,
Eric
Good luck,
Eric
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From: Pensacola,
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I'll try and see if I can find that easy off stuff on the net. Thanks eb2fly.
I dont mind the sanding, but if I can get the majority of the paint off, then sand it smooth for a one coat base it would be great.
Luis
Just ordered this from here:
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=438
At 8 bucks....worth a shot
eb2fly, how did you apply this? Did you use a rag or something else?
I dont mind the sanding, but if I can get the majority of the paint off, then sand it smooth for a one coat base it would be great.
Luis
Just ordered this from here:
http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=438
At 8 bucks....worth a shot

eb2fly, how did you apply this? Did you use a rag or something else?
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From: Odenton,
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Application is simple. I brushed it on (do about 4 to 8 inches at a time), let it sit for about half hour. Take another stiff brush and scrub it a bit, then wipe off with paper towels. I used a lot of paper towels. I liked the stuff because it was so non-volitile. Some of the strippers in hardware stores can be smelly and too powerful. It takes quite a bit of time but is not difficult. It pretty much strips the paint in layers. I don't know if this stuff is exactly what you are looking for but I found it to be usable indoors without any complaints. It comes in pint cans at about 6 or 7 dollars - it's worth a try. It also doesn't seem to leave any residue. If you have a stubborn spot that it can't seem to cut through - just wipe clean, let dry for a day or so, then sand that area smooth before repainting. I was amazed that it didn't attack plastic, my epoxy glue joints, some bondo filler, etc. It left me with a surface that was very clean , required minor resanding, and minor reputty work before repriming for fresh paint. I found no negatives except that it takes a bit of time to bubble the paint.
Good luck,
Eric
Good luck,
Eric
#10

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I have used a product from Eastwood automotive suppyl called"DeKote" It is non-toxic and biodegradable-no methylene chloride in it. They say it is safe for fiberglass and plastic and will remove most paints and powdercoat. Iused it on a epoxy part and it did no apparant damage. Scott
www.eastwoodcompany.com
www.eastwoodcompany.com
#11
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Be very careful with ANY paint stripper on fiberglass whether the stripper says it's safe or not. I called around to several auto body shops recently to see what they recommended and every one of them said to sand it. None would use a stripper as they said all will attack the fiberglass if left on for just a touch too long.
John
John
#12
Luis,
I'm sure if you do a search on "paint removal" you'll find all sorts of info. The Bulldog products, specifically the Flex bumper paint remover works quite well and is plastic/fiberglass friendly. I've used it several times and it works to my satisfaction. Make sure to buy the plastic scraper that is sold near the display as you will need it to remove the softened paint. Rubber gloves are a good idea too. Also, don't forget to wash the surface off once you are done to neutralize the chemical reaction. Any remnants or rough spots can be sanded with 100 grit wet or dry later once it all dries. You can buy Bulldog paint remover at AutoZone, PepBoyz, and Checkers.
I've heard oven cleaner will work but have yet to try it.
In addition to the Bulldog Flex Bumper Paint Stripper (F-Glass friendly), I checked into another product which you can find at the Automotive Paint Stores. It's called SKIM and it's been around for over 30 years and is used primarily for fiberglass paint removal on Corvettes according to the counter person. He also agreed that it is important that you rinse with water when you're done to neutralize the chemical process. The SKIM product I saw came in a one gallon can and you simply use a cheapo camel hair brush to apply and plastic scraper so you don't dig into to glass or spot putty underneath. Sounds like it's very similar to the Flex Bumper stripper I've used.
I'm sure if you do a search on "paint removal" you'll find all sorts of info. The Bulldog products, specifically the Flex bumper paint remover works quite well and is plastic/fiberglass friendly. I've used it several times and it works to my satisfaction. Make sure to buy the plastic scraper that is sold near the display as you will need it to remove the softened paint. Rubber gloves are a good idea too. Also, don't forget to wash the surface off once you are done to neutralize the chemical reaction. Any remnants or rough spots can be sanded with 100 grit wet or dry later once it all dries. You can buy Bulldog paint remover at AutoZone, PepBoyz, and Checkers.
I've heard oven cleaner will work but have yet to try it.
In addition to the Bulldog Flex Bumper Paint Stripper (F-Glass friendly), I checked into another product which you can find at the Automotive Paint Stores. It's called SKIM and it's been around for over 30 years and is used primarily for fiberglass paint removal on Corvettes according to the counter person. He also agreed that it is important that you rinse with water when you're done to neutralize the chemical process. The SKIM product I saw came in a one gallon can and you simply use a cheapo camel hair brush to apply and plastic scraper so you don't dig into to glass or spot putty underneath. Sounds like it's very similar to the Flex Bumper stripper I've used.
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From: Pensacola,
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Thanks Cobrajet. I'll check into that. Im planning on stipping it this weekend. I'll let everyone know how it went, hopefully with pics.
Luis
Luis
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Sean, your technique worked like a freaking charm man. I must of used about 4 rolls of paper and got 90% of the paint off in about 3 evenings of work. Pretty simple really, just a matter of time. I've since repainted it and im going to the field tomorrow. I'll take some pictures and describe what I did sometime this weekend. Thanks again Sean!!
Luis
Luis
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Yea John, The camo paint scheme was too hard to stay orientated with. I'll have a picture hopefully tonight. Went out and flew it today...much easier on the eyes now
Im so hooked! Looking around for my next jet....bought the retracts today for the lucky winner 
Luis
Im so hooked! Looking around for my next jet....bought the retracts today for the lucky winner 
Luis
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Here are some before and after pics. I took the after pics while the plane was wingless in the garage...the wings are basically white with red accents on the LE and the wing tip. Nothing cosmic, but I thought it turned out good for my first paint job. What I did was used the Kleen Strip formula that I bought from Home Depot and applied it. This stuff works fast as hell. I used about 4 rolls of paper towels and as soon as I sprayed the stuff on I began rubbing it lightly against the paint. It comes off quick so you gotta switch towels often. Kept doing that until all the paint was gone. Took about 5 hours total over 3 evenings. If anyone has any questions feel free to email me.
Luis
Luis
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eh, gotta do some repairs to the nose first John
Had a little mishap. Ive ordered the fiberglass and what not...should be ready to go again once I fine another byron impeller. Then...i'll take some vid
Had a little mishap. Ive ordered the fiberglass and what not...should be ready to go again once I fine another byron impeller. Then...i'll take some vid




