GSR

My Feedback: (145)

Just finished my WREN 54 mk2 kit. It is a great kit-it went together in about 4 hours (discounting all the extra polishing and foo-foo work I did). I got it from JHH. I did a "modified" autostart system on it. The little thing runs like a top. It starts first time and sets into idle about 12 seconds after I hit the start button. After I soaked it in I incrementally raised the RPM up to 160K and there it pulls 13.2 pounds of thrust on my "Hi tech state of the art" stand. No vibration at all. The turbine assembly instructions are great, the FADEC instructions could use a little tweaking though. For those of us that like the hands on approach to turbines this kit is the way to go. Scott

KFalcon

My Feedback: (18)

What are they getting for the 54s these days?

H.Dale

My Feedback: (3)

What is a modified auto-start?

I have two 54's and am going to start using the wand to start them. Since both of my planes have an exposed engine it saves a lot of weight. I have had problems in the past with the electric motor disengaging from the turbine.

I was wondering if others are using this method?

Hal
Jackson, MS

747drvr

My Feedback: (5)

Did you paint the case and anodise the intake yourself ?

nxs

My Feedback: (4)

What all came with the kit from JHH in regards to the electronics? Pic if you can please.

Thanks in advanced

Shawn

GSR

My Feedback: (145)

Hi,
I should have said "modifed ON BOARD" autostart system. The story is as follows: For $1595.00 you get the WREN 54 mk 2 preballanced kit. You dont get and batteries, but that is fine I would rather get the batteries that suit me myself. This comes with the starter wand and the manual FADEC ECO ECU. I wanted to use autostart, but not carry the electric motor aloft. I traded in my unused ECO model ECU back to WREN (+ $) for the full autostart model.(comes with 2 electric valves and all the wireing). To start I just plug the starter wand into the starter output from the ECU (the ECU,afterall, does not know if the electric motor it is driving is attached to the turbine or not). I hold the wand on the compressor, hit start and off she goes-remove the wand at about 28K and about 4 seconds later it is at 45K and idleing. Then unplug the wand and the propane line.
The coloring was done by first polishing and then translucent powdercoating the parts. The black is Hi temp and the purple is regular translucent. I really like the translucent powdercoatings-gives a much, much deeper gloss than anodising. The standard powdercoat colors are good to about 340 degrees F. I am thinking about buying a new case from WREN and doing a test to see if the "prettty" colors would hold up. I measured the temps on the case at the rear and I recorded about 335-345F or so. Scott

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

man, this post makes me want to build one of the Simjet sonic kits ... I ended up buying a P160, and won't need another turbine for a few months .... man, i really feel like building one, i always though it would be fun ...



Wojtek

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Yep.. I must admit to being intrigued by the idea of building my own.. Not to mention I think a better understanding of what's inside the can would be helpful.

KHORTON

My Feedback: (1)

The Wren 54 is a good little turbine. Very easy to build, about 4 hours tops. I would recommend either of the on-board starter options if you are going to be using a full by-pass. I found it too difficult to reach the starter wand( that comes with the kit) into the bypass, while monitoring the ecu and propane valve. The simple starter motor mounts direct to the front of the case and cost about $67.00 including shipping direct from Wren. I'am very happy with mine. Attached photo of BVM Sabre. Kinda cool knowing all about the internal parts.

whope

My Feedback: (13)

GSR,
Just received my Wren54 mk2 kit from JHH. Did you have to balance the turbine wheel or
does it come pre-balanced? I did not see any info saying mine is pre-balanced.
Thanks,Bill

Gazzer

I had the MKIII kit a little more dosh but a bit more ooommmpppphhhhhhh!!!

I've run it 5 times now, no issues apart from the glow plug clip soldering itself to the glowplug!!! Its a really neat join so I left it!

It is not so much a kit as an assembly guide and boy, does it fit perfectly!!! Mine is still on a test stand and I have demonstrated it to the boys on the field. They are really impressed.

My hats are off to Wren, it is a smart purposeful unit, easy to assemble and understand how it works, and so far in my experience very easy to use.

I guess I will get round to some tweaking soon!!

Gazzer

H.Dale

My Feedback: (3)

I am finishing a Wren 54. I can hand tighten my spinner nut part of the way, but it gets tight and will not go further without using a wrench. It is like the hole is smaller. Is this the way it should be? I don't want to force it and strip the nut.

Any suggestions.

Hal

Gazzer

The compressor on mine was a really, no really!!!! tight fit, and it did not slide on the shaft but needed slowly turning around on the shaft until it got to the spacer. It was so tight that when I tried to take it off, I couldn't and in fact sliced my fingers big time on a compressor blade and bled everywhere!!

Once I had stemmed the tide (seriously!!) I concluded that the compressor was as far down as it should be and then tightened the spinner nut.

Perhaps the compressor needs to slide down a bit further?

Wren reckon if I need to remove the compressor to gently warm with hot hair and it should come off. From a conversation I heard with someone this is supposed to be the case, the tolerances are now so good they can machine to this level of accuracy.

Customer service from Wren is outstanding so worth an email to them, the response is excellent given time zones.

Gazzer

H.Dale

My Feedback: (3)

I can get my compressor on easily but I cannot hand tighten the nut all the way down to it. It will only go about half way. I was wondering if I should be able to hand tighten it all the way down to the compressor?

Hal

Gazzer

You got me there Hal.

Might be worth taking the compressor off but noting how high it sits on the shaft, then screw on the spinner nut on and see how far it goes tightening by hand and how close it gets to the compressor. If its a way off, check the spinner for any loose swarf or debris, if it is close, or spot on, I would think a final wrench tighten would be ok.

I take it the engine is nearly assembled?

Gazzer

unknown

After building my first turbine engine. I save thousands for dollars doing all my repairs after my jet crash and my turbine needed some repairs.