Question for all you guys who have built a hotspot. I am in the process of building one and wanted to get the insight of others on a couple of issues. The build is not going to be that difficult but just wanted to get the opinions on others who have built this kit.


1. When putting together the nosegear formers, do you really need to fiberglass the parts together or can I use aeropoxy.
2. When gluing the nose gear former into the fuse can I use aeropoxy or do I need to use fiberglass and epoxy.
3. The wood that supports the formers is kind of flimsy has anyone reinforced this with a doubler of some sort and/or does it need to be done at all.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.


Patrick.

Hi Patrick;
I have a hot spot that I built last year, and I used fiberglass cloth strips around the nose gear formers, (6 oz) and I laminated the nose gear mounts and the front of the long runners with 4 0z carbon cloth, on only one side.
Ron Jahnig

I used cloth on mine...

see lots of pics of mine during construction:
http://www.rc-unionen.dk/nytforum/to...?TOPIC_ID=1854

I've done it both ways. First one glassed in, second aeropoxy. Either will be fine, just make sure to clean and scuff those areas GOOD!

I did not do any other reinforcement up there.
George

HI all ,I have a set of Robarts 630 Hotspot gear and just received BVM Super Bandit wheels and brakes, guess what, they don't fit.What axles and wheels should I have gotten.
Thanks Rcpete

Pete, I'm not familiar with the SB w/b's, I have always used BV's F-86 wheels & brakes on the Hot Spot.

George

Hi RcPete:
Just purchased a Hot Spot & Robart 630 retract, strut, wheel & brake package from Planes Plus. Same problem here. Robart axles for mains are 1/4 in. and BVM wheels and brake drums are 3/16. To make matters worse, BVM states in their documents not to attempt using any other type of axle as they will not be accurate enough to function, probably inplying not do do something foolish such as enlarging the 3/16 in. fit. Sound reasoning also tells me not to drill out the BVM wheels and brake drums. Contacted Planes Plus twice and no reply. Contacted Robart and no reply. Will now contact BVM for their say in the matter. Will keep in touch.
Saludos,
Pedro

Just received an answer from Gary Ernst at Robart. They make a bushing to reduce the the axle hole on the Robart strut from 1/4" to 3/16". They are $3.00 each. Ordering today. Now I have to get the axles from BVM as they did not come with the Robart package from Planes Plus. Guess this'll solve problem; feel bushings and 3/16" axles should have been included as part of the package from Planes Plus.
Saludos,
Pedro

Hi Guys. I also used Robart gear with BVM wheels and brakes. All you need to do is go to the Hardware store and buy 4- 1/4" flanged bronze bushings. BVM's bushings will tap right out and all you need to do then is install the new 1/4" ones. I have 124 flights with no binding or problems of any kind.

Several choices with the HS gear...I've built 3 of them....if you haven't ordered the gear yet, then you can request Kangaroo lower strut units for the HS 630 gear...same price....talk to Eric at Robart.....they are 3/16" vs 1/4" axles on the HS version.....the upper struts are shorter on the Roo so can't just substitute Roo gear, but the lower struts are identical.....the nose strut for the Roo vs HS is virtually identical, within about 1/16"...forgot which one is longer, so they are interchangeable and have 3/16" axles......haven't tried the new bushing from Robart, but they should work.....I do like BVM 3/16" axle set.....they are super honed and polished with perfect C-clip groove in place.....better than some of the dowel pin stuff on the market....

While knocking out the bushings and replacing with new !/4" bushes would definitely work, many BVM W/B users, self included, have had the experience of steel vs brass galling and seizing up the wheel, flattening the tire......major irritation and unpredicatable, so have to lube regularly.....the new BVM W/B come with Oilite bushings so it is much less likely to happen...so if you have to replace, try to get a 1/4" Oilite bushing......if not, be sure to scuff both the axle and the bushing with medium grit, about 80, emory cloth....the more scratches, the better to trap the grease....

Finally, Intairco makes a great W/B in different sizes that have 1/4" axles...just got a set for my Eurosport......not sure about Trim.....Glennis W/B set for HS also comes with 1/4" axle.....

Tom

Patrick:

Using the cloth is O.K. but I have seen some real glop jobs doing it that way....expoxy in globs and buckled cloth.....I'm too OCD to look at that......I use the BVM technique..... fit the part....then tack with slow ZAP or similar real thick CA.....then do a neat, smooth aeropoxy fillet around the bulk head.....my Buddy and I have done 4 HS/Blade that way and never had a problem....same way recently did my KingCat.....just be sure to prep the glass well with soap and water, acetone, and 80 grit paper......

As far as doublers, YES......2 areas of concern you mentioned.....

1. gear plate.....use the box-lock lower plate that come with the kit.....then on top of that, we added (2) 1/4" aircraft ply doublers, using Aeropoxy, and then on top of that, a piece of 3mm C/F plate from Art......all with generous fillets....we tap into the C/F plate for the gear bolts....get rid of the blind nuts that way.....for gear installs, I don't like blind nuts personally....

2. side plates that support the gear block.....we double that from the front to the back of the retract cutout with 1/8" aircraft plywood...once again with aeropoxy.....whole deal only adds a couple of ounces, as the doublers are small....


After flying our HS's off grass and asphalt with probably close to 750 flights between us, we have never torn a nose gear out....though have bent our share of struts....fortunately, one of our club members straightens the upper struts for us on a lathe and saves $18.00 bucks which is what they get for a new one.....

I will post a picture when I get a chance.....

Tom

Checking the formers for good glue joints is a good idea... we also have here a standard procedure
of glassing the fins to achieve more rigidity, also recommended to the wings if you are going to use a 20 lbs plus turbine on it.

Rgds, Enrique

Here's a couple of photos of my current old beater (230 flights +/-) Hotspot....hard to make out the doublers for the nosegear since they are painted gray, and photographed under an incandescent light, but they are there, along with the C/F plate.....

Tom