Reaction 54 Jet Kit
#2626
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Bob, I have not flown with the pitot airspeed sensor but we have confirmed with radar gun and GPS in a steady pass my R54 does about 155 mph in level flight after a few laps at full throttle and coming out of a modest "downhill" run toward the runway, that was with a Wren 54SS (18#).
The info on GPS required to unlock came from the developers of the system, since the data "went away" during even moderately aggressive manuvering. They told me of the requirement .. but you are right it may just as well have been the inability to re-lock to other satellites. I guess it sounds better to tell your customers that the missing data is due to security concerns than limited lock speed :-) Seriously though, the RCATS is a really nice system and Michael Luvara (the developer) is great to deal with and is incredibly knowledgable.
I recently upgraded to a Wren 100 (22#) and it is a little faster, but we have not measured it. I think we're not really going to get much faster with the drag and thick wing, though the vertical is noticeably better (and it was pretty darned good before!).
The Wren 100/R54 combo is a hot ticket :-)
Dave
The info on GPS required to unlock came from the developers of the system, since the data "went away" during even moderately aggressive manuvering. They told me of the requirement .. but you are right it may just as well have been the inability to re-lock to other satellites. I guess it sounds better to tell your customers that the missing data is due to security concerns than limited lock speed :-) Seriously though, the RCATS is a really nice system and Michael Luvara (the developer) is great to deal with and is incredibly knowledgable.
I recently upgraded to a Wren 100 (22#) and it is a little faster, but we have not measured it. I think we're not really going to get much faster with the drag and thick wing, though the vertical is noticeably better (and it was pretty darned good before!).
The Wren 100/R54 combo is a hot ticket :-)
Dave
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Seriously though, the RCATS is a really nice system and Michael Luvara (the developer) is great to deal with and is incredibly knowledgable.
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I think we're not really going to get much faster with the drag and thick wing,
Thanks for the info.
Bob
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Whooooosssshhh...
That's the sound of Bob and Dave's conversation going way over my head
, right along with Bob's structural analysis. As always, I appreciate your contributions to the thread, Bob. If I can boil it down, you're saying Jeff's wing mod is probably okay, right?
Jeff, it sure looks good to me. I don't crunch numbers like Bob, but I can tell great craftsmanship when I see it! Actually, the first question that came to my mind was whether you were able to maintain the design's dihedral, or did you have to flatten it out for the joiners?
That's the sound of Bob and Dave's conversation going way over my head
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Jeff, it sure looks good to me. I don't crunch numbers like Bob, but I can tell great craftsmanship when I see it! Actually, the first question that came to my mind was whether you were able to maintain the design's dihedral, or did you have to flatten it out for the joiners?
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Bruce,
I didn't change a thing in the dihedral department. After alot of head scratching, I ended up using the kits dihedral brace to make a jig to hold the wing tubes. I set the jig on the building table and locked it in place, put the tube in it, then slid it up next to the rib and marked the rib. Remove that rib, then slid it up to the next rib, and so on. I then took the marked rib and cut the holes out in both ribs. It went fairly quickly, the whole build took just over a month, with that being about 2 1/2 weeks of waiting for parts from an unnamed retract company. Long story there but I'm sure you get the drift![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Jeff
I'll try posting some more pictures later, RCU isn't working again.
I didn't change a thing in the dihedral department. After alot of head scratching, I ended up using the kits dihedral brace to make a jig to hold the wing tubes. I set the jig on the building table and locked it in place, put the tube in it, then slid it up next to the rib and marked the rib. Remove that rib, then slid it up to the next rib, and so on. I then took the marked rib and cut the holes out in both ribs. It went fairly quickly, the whole build took just over a month, with that being about 2 1/2 weeks of waiting for parts from an unnamed retract company. Long story there but I'm sure you get the drift
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Jeff
I'll try posting some more pictures later, RCU isn't working again.
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Bob. If I can boil it down, you're saying Jeff's wing mod is probably okay, right?
The stock, one piece R54 wing is probably good for over 40G's. I dont suggest you go try it, but it would probably handle a high rate, full up elevator pullout after a straight down, full throttle dive from a half mile up..
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Bob
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ORIGINAL: bobparks2
I dont suggest you go try it, but it would probably handle a high rate, full up elevator pullout after a straight down, full throttle dive from a half mile up..![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Bob
I dont suggest you go try it, but it would probably handle a high rate, full up elevator pullout after a straight down, full throttle dive from a half mile up..
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Bob
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I am a fan of anything but "normal" jet like flight.
There are a lot of folks at our field that are amazed at what I have pulled off with my R54.
From slowing it down and flying it backwards the length of the field with just a gentile wind to full speed turns that are nearly as tight as with my 3D ships.
Did I mention that I really like this plane?
There are a lot of folks at our field that are amazed at what I have pulled off with my R54.
From slowing it down and flying it backwards the length of the field with just a gentile wind to full speed turns that are nearly as tight as with my 3D ships.
Did I mention that I really like this plane?
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This is my third R54. First one was stock, the second one I clipped the wing tips and added winglets, this one is going to have intakes and some curvature to the canopy/hatch. It seems no matter what kind of modification given to the airframe they all fly the same. Sorry Bruce but this will be my last balsa one....I do have a fiberglass Reaction though.. that will be number four. Great design, awesome flyer, very affordable model.
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When you put the notch in your boat tail do you fill the notch or just leave it open into the boat tail? I have to notch mine a bit to clear the start motor power wires.
Thanks,
Chris</p>
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I also run the P70 and left the notch open.
But then I also have air inlets and the turbine semi enclosed so you do not see the notch.
If built stock I would close the notch just for aesthetics.
Structurally and aerodynamically it does not make much of a difference.
But then I also have air inlets and the turbine semi enclosed so you do not see the notch.
If built stock I would close the notch just for aesthetics.
Structurally and aerodynamically it does not make much of a difference.
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I have the new Bee II. The starter moter wires stick out the front about 3 inches. I will have to leave the notch open so I don't have to mess with them to much. I am going to paint the inside black so I looks nice. I was worried about messing up the air flow to the turbine.
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ORIGINAL: knifeedgeyak
I was worried about messing up the air flow to the turbine.
I was worried about messing up the air flow to the turbine.
Bob