How much MM paint is required?
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (7)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Livonia, MI
I've read all the threads on using 1/2oz modelmaster paints and then clearing with PPG.
How much paint is required to paint a 70" F16? I was guessing at about 6-10 oz. That would come out to 12 to 20 bottles at $2.50 a crack. Or, $30-50. Is it really any cheaper than having the paint mixed properly from the auto paint store? Someone, please help me decide. And no, I won't use rustoleum or Krylon.
Thanks Guys.
Jim
How much paint is required to paint a 70" F16? I was guessing at about 6-10 oz. That would come out to 12 to 20 bottles at $2.50 a crack. Or, $30-50. Is it really any cheaper than having the paint mixed properly from the auto paint store? Someone, please help me decide. And no, I won't use rustoleum or Krylon.
Thanks Guys.
Jim
#2

My Feedback: (10)
While many have had good luck with the system you are describing, I did not. I used a tiny bit of modelmaster for trim on my new plane. The stuff runs if you do not just MIST the clear on. It cannot stand any type of heavy cleaner, just windex, and only barely that.
I am sure better technique would have helped. I for one would recommend PPG DBU or DBC, computer matched. If you have small trim colors then use the model master and very carefully clear. Then clear with 2021 (gloss) or 2060 (flat)
One good use of the model master is you can buy a bottle, spray it on some white abs and take that to the paint store for computer matching.
I am sure better technique would have helped. I for one would recommend PPG DBU or DBC, computer matched. If you have small trim colors then use the model master and very carefully clear. Then clear with 2021 (gloss) or 2060 (flat)
One good use of the model master is you can buy a bottle, spray it on some white abs and take that to the paint store for computer matching.
#3
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Oxford, MS
I have had a lot of success with the modelmaster paints. I used them extensively on the tail section of my Phantom and had almost no problems. Matt is right about not using an aggressive cleaner. I have found that if I do a section where I use a lot of the model master I try to clear it immediately to "seal" it in. THen I can use the regular cleaners. If I am doing a whole airplane I just get the paint mixed at the PPG store.
David Reid
David Reid
#5
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Oxford, MS
Vin,
I use the regular model masters thinned about to the consistency of skim milk. I spray just about everything with a Walcom STM HVLP gun. I have thr .7, 1.0, and 1.2 mm tips so it can really be dialed down, or up depending upon what you are spraying. I have a Pasche single, and dual action airbrushes that I occasionally use when I need to get into tight spots. (Spraying inside inlets) but usually use the Walcom for everything else. Testors makes the model master paints. I have also used regular testors but only for cockpit detail.
DR
I use the regular model masters thinned about to the consistency of skim milk. I spray just about everything with a Walcom STM HVLP gun. I have thr .7, 1.0, and 1.2 mm tips so it can really be dialed down, or up depending upon what you are spraying. I have a Pasche single, and dual action airbrushes that I occasionally use when I need to get into tight spots. (Spraying inside inlets) but usually use the Walcom for everything else. Testors makes the model master paints. I have also used regular testors but only for cockpit detail.
DR



