Ron v U

What display?

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

die er bij jou niet in zit

Ron v U

haha

Carsten Groen

Bless you

PS: Babelfish: "die er bij jou niet in zit" => "that at you in does not sit there"
does not make more sense than in Dutch

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

i said "the display you dont have"

btw Lightning flew!
monster plane , no couple, flys on rails.
just 3 klicks up on elevator trim.

i use crow braking like didier told me

settings:
elevator 9mm down
flaps 90 cm measured from inside
ailerons 12mm up measured from tip

perfect setup settles without pitch change

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

So guys, what torque servos do you think are required for the Lightning flaps ?

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

8711 is fine

i put MP80T everywhere , since i fly it pretty hard i hope

i3dm

My Feedback: (51)

Sandor,

8711 is more than fine im sure.

there is no need for a 100+$ servo for flaps though. i rarely use them in flight anyway.

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

first flight(s)

BaldEagel

Sandor

Love the Red Bull colour scheme, rearly adds something to the Lightning.

MIke

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

it was eather this or the Red arrows sheme

Carsten Groen

Congratulations Sandor!
Now be nice to it

Amir Assal

Congratulations Sandor !!!!
He looks Really amazing !!!!!!!!!!

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Looks nice mate! Did you scare that bloke and his dog

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

thank you all
no the dog was over 300ft away
this pic was taken using a telelens

digitech

My Feedback: (10)

got 2 more

myersflyers

My Feedback: (33)

digitech, Can you please tell me about my struts I ordered.

RCpropo

My Feedback: (1)

Beautiful plane. Take care of it.

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Dont know if this thread is dead of not-tried posting elsewhere but no response. hre are the questions



Finally started my Lightning build. I have a Classsic Lightning airframe with a set of Ultra Lighting wings.
questions

1. the UL wings did not have the incident pins (CF) installed. the Classic Lightning does have them installed.
Can I take the Classic wings, mount them, draw an outline of the classic wing root on the fuse, then remove and mount the UL wings to see where the incidence pins need to be. does this make any sense? is the incidence supposed to be the same? I reallly feel dumb using incidence meters and only have one of the same type.

2. i went to download the instruction manual fo the UL so I could see the wings. its the same as the Classic (and now the Classic instruction manual is available for $10 USD!)
What is the CG for the Classic fuse with UL wings and Stab?

3. i know that hte UL flaps are totally different from the Classic flaps. in the instruction manual for the classic, it talked about a modification to the flaps that may not have been done in the factory. since the UL manual is the same and i havent really gotten to that part yet, is there anything that has to be modified on the UL flaps (similar to the Lightning flaps?


and of course, if you post, how about some component board shots!!

thanks

Joe

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

New Questiion

I have 3 unique Phebolic hinges

1st one i am 99% sure is the nosewheel door.

2nd one (middle) was what I thought was the main gear door (i had the Classic Lighning wings origianlly, never built)

3rd one (bottom) is i dont know what. looks like it MIGHT be a new main gear door hinge?

can anyone identify all three, espeically someone who has the UL?

thanks

tassos p

Dear Joe,

I have built 3 Lightnings with UL wings. Here are my expieriences with regards to your questions:

1. The method I used in the first 2 Lightnings was the one you discribe. I ended up wanting a slight aileron trim in order to ballance the plane during flights. On the 3rd Lightning I used an incidence meter. The result was 0 aileron trim.

2. It is a little bit further back from the Classic. So you do not need any ballast in the nose any more and you can in fact install the batteries on the front of the main fus (not in the nose). The recomended CG position is on the Carf web site.

3. For the flaps I have done 2 important things. 1st was to install the flap servo in such a way that the linkage moves towards the bottom skin of the wing (not towards the top as the pics show in the Classic Manual). 2nd was to trim 3-4mm where the flap meets the fus. In fact you may not be able to see this with your eye but when flap rotates and should you have not trimmed it then it will stick against the fus. This can be disasterous because the wings rotate backwards during flight because of the forces exerted on them and could cause one flap to bind while employed.

As far as the hinges are concerned:

1. This first hinge is for the air-cylinder linkage of the nosewheel door

2. NOT USED

3. New type hinge for the wing doors and are used for the air-cylinder linkage.

I hope these helped.

Tassos

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Tassos

thanks very much for your response.

i got some answers on another post i put up with similar questions (not knowing if this was a dead thread).

so, what incidence value did you use?

also, here are some photos provided by Dave Wilshire on a different method for install of the main gear doors. have you seen this before? how did you do your install for the main doors? do you really need 1mm gap around the door to opening?

thank you

joe

tassos p

I'd be lying if I said I rember the incidence value I used. Its not of importance anyhow. What is of great importance was that the left and right wings have the same incidence. A 0.5 degree difference between the 2 wings could make a real difference in flight.

As far as the main doors are concerned no I did not leave a 1mm gap around the door opening. I just left a 1-2mm gap at the "back" side of the door near the fus. This is because when the door opens it could bind with the wing skin. You will discover this when you create the hinge.

Tassos

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

ok, now i am confused!!!

so the "back" side of the door, or the part of the door that is closest to the fuse/wing root needs to be not flush up against the indentation in the wing where the door fits? it kicks out from the edge of the recessed area on the wing by the root?

anyone have any pictures of a closed door? they said something about

Inner Doors:
Sand the inner ends of the wheel wells right up to the edge
of the moulded lip, using the moulded edge as a guide to
keep it straight, and also notch the sides about 15mm long
to allow for the inner door to swing inside the wheel well.
(see photo @ bottom of page 17 for shape).

Position both the phenolic door hinges 13mm from the edge of the door

note sure i understand exactly what they mean about sading the inner wells of the wheel wells right up to the edge of the moulded lip......

1st time at gear doors. now i know why people pay (and some mfg offer) gear doors assembled and installed.

kind of fiddly

joe

JoeEagle

My Feedback: (26)

Furloughed UAL

i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1" (acutally, its more like 1.25") throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.

i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.

ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?

so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.

or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?


also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?

dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.

thanks!!