Dash7ATP

Hi Guys!

After recently buying the BAE Red Arrow ARF on Ebay, I have decided to document the build on my web site. For most of you, there will be nothing new. If you are new to jets, or have never built a ducted fan kit, or a kit with a fiberglass fuselage, you might want to take a look. The URL is http://members.cox.net/jluptonjets/redarrowarf.htm.

If you have or are currently building this kit, maybe we can share some ideas. I would like to know what retracts you used, how high it sits ( no details at all in the kit), how it flew on my power system, and other details like this. I'll pass along a few ideas of my own. I also have included my way of balancing a jet. It's very simple, extremely accurate, quick once it's set up, and will work for any size model. Go to the home page and you'll see a link to that page.

Drop me a line with your comments.

Joe

rhklenke

My Feedback: (24)

There's an extra '.' on the end of Joe's URL above...

pilott34

I dont see much glue holding the wood pieces in the tail, especially around the formers that hold the stab on. Might want to hit those with some aeropoxy.

Mike

SJN

Joe, the stabilzers are anhedral on the hawk........you have mounted them inverted


Heres almost the same kit....if you have not already seen it
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2771814/tm.htm

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Doh!

SJN

It just doesn`t look the same

USSCAT

Hello Joe,

I have got one of these birds and am in the process of building it. The isntructions are not that good and I am also a bit confused about the pieces. I started last week and have joined the wings and am in the process of glassing the center section.
Item 1 in your photo and the other square piece with a smaller hole in the middle is used for the stab system.
Item 9 is used for the fiberglass shroud piece around the engine.
Item 3 and 6 are used for servo mounts in the wing, aileron and flap.
Item 2 is for the nose wheel retract.
Item 4 DAAHHHHHH don't know
Item next to item 10 which is a 1/8 or 3/16 hardwood covered.....no idea.

If you have figured it out, please let me know. By the way are you going to continue and update your web page, looks pretty good.

Thanks,

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

PM me your email address and I will send you the manual

USSCAT

Hi Edgar,

I have the instructions that came with it, is this something else that you have?

Thanks

SAP_2000

I actually think it looked all right... But then, I am no big Hawk fan.

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

No, its the manual I got from Larry Wolfe /AMD...

USSCAT

Hi Edgar,

I got the email, Thanks alot, colored photos are a lot more help. The instruction sheet is also appreciated.

What a Guy.

happy Flying.

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Whatever you do, make sure you put the hulkiest servo on the stab that you can afford, at least 150 oz/in plus!! Lost my Hawk on the maiden due to this, no eleveator response!!!!.

USSCAT

Hi Ian,

Thanks for your advise, I plan to put a JR8411 in the stab and rudder, for Aileron I ma using HS125MG, for Flaps Futaba 128s.

I am poering it with an OS65 DF, Dynamax Fan and JMP pipe or BVm.

Was yours a DF or Turbine?

Thanks

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Mine was a ducted fan with Dynamax and O.S. .91. It really moved and didnt need much runway. I did a build thread on RCSB.

USSCAT

Ian,

Thanks again, I have been reading your build thread http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...613&PN=1&TPN=1 that is some fine building...man i want to be your friend, wished you lived closer...

The wheel well is rather large, I did not remove the covering material. Do you think, it will be Ok wih the covering material that it has with a larger DF engine? I wished I had seen your thread earlier, I would have glassed the wings also [:@]

Thanks

USSCAT

Ian,

Did you ever find the angle for the stabilizer aluminium rod? Mine is also not correct, one is sitting at 5 1/2 degrees while the other one is at 10 degrees. I made them both 10 degree, but I am not sure if that is correct. I was looking at your thread and it looked to be more than 10 degrees.
When I slide the elevators on to the rod, the front end of the elevator hits the fuse before the back end. The back end is out by about one inch or so.

If anyone else has similar problem, please let me know.

Thank,

USSCAT

Just an update to my previous posting, I can get the elevators to fit properly by rotaing the elevator control rods inside the elvator pocket. Can anyone tell me what the angle of the elevator bend is? I printed a picture posting from SNJ and measured it to be about 12 1/2 degrees but need to verify.

Thanks

USSCAT

Another update for the elevator Rod angle..... It really does not matter what the angle is. it can be anywhere from 5 to 15 degrees. What you would have to do is to rotate the rod inside the elevator pocket to get the elevator to fit against the fuse kinda tight. I would allow about 0.060 gap which is where couple of washers will be placed between the elevator and the fuse.

Note: if you have to replace the rod, make sure that the replacemnet material is hardend, the stock 1/4 aluminum rod from home depot is too soft for this application. ask me how I know.....

Thanks for some of the inputs from folks here on RCU

USSCAT

Another update---

As Joe had mentioned in his build thread, the position of the elevator rod in fuse is incorrect. The hole center location needs to be moved up toward the top of fuse by 1/4-3/8 ". I made the mistake and had to plug the hole and redrill. I made a jig to make sure that the two holes would be in the same location. The problem was to drill the holes so that the two sides would line up, well that didn't happen. What I had to do was to change the elevator rod to 1/4" Aluminium T6061 and turned the coupler engagemnt end down to 0.140". I drilled the holes to 3/8 and used two (3/8 OD-1/4ID) bronze bearing sleeve and lined them up using a 12" 1/4 rod and used hysol to secure inplace. I really did not like the idea of using the hardwood as a bushing for the elevator rod. THe bearing sleeves are a lot more smoother and stonger.

By the way, the angle of the elevator rod bend needs to be 14 to 16 degrees.

USSCAT

I test fired the engine last Saturday. I have got a OS 65 DF plus Dynamax fan for power. Boy it sounded good, I taxied it a bit looked pretty good. I used some large foam wheels on, which could not take the weight, oh well I used the foam wheels that came with the kit. I had made my own engine cover (Kit did not have one in it), It blow off after the second start, I guess I need to reinforce it a bit...[sm=lol.gif]

I noticed some oil residues near the Flaps servos, Did you guys have the same issue? if so what did you do to seal the liner-fan interface? I am not sure but I think it is coming from the liner-fan interface.

What is the largest size fuel tank that you guys have tried? I've got a 16 Oz and a 6 Oz in there.

Any comments would be appreciated.

USSCAT

Got a question for you guys.... Did you have to put a lot of weight in the nose to balane this bird? I mean 8-10 OZ or so. I am using a DYnamax fan and an OS 65.

Thanks,

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

Think I got 22 oz (10 oz in top of 12 oz).
No weight added with a 46VX. Using a 4 cell 2000 nimh

Make sure the engine hatch pin in the fuselage is well glued. Ended up having to put carbon reinforcement to avoid losing the hatch in flight.

USSCAT

Hi Edgar,

Did you use a 46 or 91 size engine? I am assuming you used a 91 size enigne with 22 Oz dead weight in the nose....wow. did you have any fuel in the tank or was it dry?

Thanks,

Edgar Perez

My Feedback: (13)

I used the .46VX engine and all the fuel is usable. Tanks just in the standard position in front of the inlets. Got a very small (2oz?) center pickup hopper just in front on the inflight mixture needle.
I't being a while since I looked at it, so maybe somewhat off in the tank sizes. But that's my best recollection. I'm in a business trip, so I can check when I get home.