.

I have seen a few planes with OMNI and they looked great. I have not used it myself but I can't imagine why it would not work as intended if you follow the directions or advice.

What I'm puzzzled about is the above quote - Did I miss something?? You want to hear expert advice but - NOT - because you can get it locally ??


Adil

I've used it - Omni in white and the matching clear. VERY easy to use. Painted a pattern plane and a golf cart with the stuff. It flows well enough and is durable; I don't find it any different than other 2 part paints. If you over-thin the clear, as is sometimes customary on planes, you'll have to watch your coverage and overlap real close so it won't run. Have you shot 2-part/stage paints before?

Otherwise, make sure you've got a good respirator, disposable nitrile exam gloves, etc. because of the isocyanates. If you can, please use a spray booth or make a take down one. On the take down type (plastic both in the garage with fan), put a pleated filter/window behind you so there's a place for make up air to come through and be filtered of dust, otherwise you'll be pulling dust off the floor or ceiling into your paint.

Bring it up again Saturday.

Geez, I would think Jeremy would be an excellent information source.... I mean come on... a canuck who is more patriotic towards the US than 95% of the people living here can't be too bad... Oh, and his work seems to be adequate too


Mike

Sean,
I too am confused by this post? If you want advice about shooting the paint and don't want expert advice from Jeremy or your local paint store then why come here and as from guys you know have less experience or who don't use it as much?

Just so you know I used omni on a project (not rc) and I did have to contact jeremy about some particulars and he made my first experience with the stufff relatively pain free.

Patrick.

Hey man, I used Omni on my old Bobcat and the new one. I can't tell the difference between it and the high end lines of PPG. It flows out nice, reduce the colors 100% and the clear 150%. You have to keep the gun moving when shooting the clear or it will run. I didn't polish or buff the new Bobcat and it looks *****in. The price on this stuff is right too!

I had to repaint one of the fenders on my Mazda and I used the PPG Deltron 2000 DBC base coat and Concept DCU 2002 clear. I paint static models for a living but have never done anything with a vehicle. This stuff went on great and looks even better. At work we only use single stage paints so this is where the majority of my experience is. The only 2-part system I ever used before was the old K&B Epoxy paints. I didnt have any problems with the PPG stuff running and I was able to apply a pretty wet coat of the clear. If you've used other 2-part paints, you'll have no problem with this. I'm getting ready to paint a Patriot and I am going to use the PPG and the Deltron.

HI all, I use Omni paint all the time, it is cheap and looks good too. It is by no means a good as PPG, just try to sand PPG of a jet that is several years old. Omni will work great on a whitish primer like K36 but if you use Omni Sv, MP282 primer which is a third of the cost of K36, because of it"s dark texture, you will need at least 3 coats to hide the primer.
I also use Omni MC260 Quick clear, works great thinned 50% with MH168 or MH167 reducer, it"s cheap too.
Rcpete PS Jets don"t last long enough to justify expensive paints.

HI all, best finish at Winamac
Rcpete

Since we're talking about paint, what would happen if I clear over primer without any color? My new plane is white gel coat and is going to be mostly white so I was thinking about just using a white primer then clear. What do you guys think?

Jeremy is your best source, probably better than your so called local expert.

Im no expert by long shot here. But I would let a professional paint your plane. With cost of all equip and RISK TO YOUR HEALTH (read RISK TO YOUR HEALTH), its
not worth it to paint yourself. I think you should read Jeremy's posts on rcjet.net under painting.

I think Sean means he wants to hear from mere mortals who have used the Omni. Jeremy could probably get good results from anything.

On the subject of paint, I thought you guys might get a kick out of the collapsible downdraft paint booth I use in my garage. Since using this sucker I get no overspray on the stuff in my garage, no clouds of spray mist hanging in the air and no stink in my garage for days. The twin blowers remove the overspray from my HVLP gun so fast that it doesn't even get on the plastic walls of the booth! Twin furnace filters and a charcoal second stage remove the particulates and smell from the air before it is exhausted outside.

This in combination with a full face respirator and I am reasonably comfortable with the protection I am getting from the paint. Of course it would be nice to have one of the HobbyAir respirators too. Maybe next year.

Antony

Nice setup Antony.

I am hoping to build something similar in my garage.

What kind of fans are you using to remove the exhaust? Show us some more pictures.


Jeff

HI all, my spray booth uses a 3000cfm fan in the attic.my booth is 8ft x6ft by 8ft high, thats a complete air change every 8 seconds, and that is just about right. when you are spraying, you are surrounded by about 10% mist, but when you finish your pass, about 3seconds and the air is clear.
Rcpete PS, you must not forget to leave a door open some where in the house for makeup air.

Antony/rcpete...what gun do I see in your pictures? And to clarify: low booth inlet air, high exhaust, correct?

Ray

I painted my BVM Agressor using OMNI in my garage without any repsirators or special equipment, ans I am still alive, smoking, and doing quite well.

Im no paining expert but the results were very good for my first try. Sean you paint better than me so it should be perfect fo you.

Good luck.

David

Thanks Jeff. I am really pleased with how this booth works. I am using two marine bilge blowers to remove the fumes and overspray. They vent to the outside world through 2 - 10'L x 4"W flexible marine hoses that are fit into a window insert. My booth is 8'W x 8'L x 7'H which is approximately 450 cubic feet. My blowers each move about 450 cubic feet of air per minute (i.e. 900 CFM combined) which seems perfectly adequate for my usage with an HVLP gun. Intake is via an opening in the booth covered by two 20" furnace/AC filters. The exhaust port is also covered by two 20" filters and behind them is a 30" x 20" (guessing on dimensions there) charcoal filter.

Ray, the gun you see is my cheapo primer gun. For real painting I use a Devilbiss SRI HVLP gun. Very nice quality hardware and almost impossible to get poor results, particularly if you follow the infamous David Reid "reduce it 200%" rule.

Here are pics of the bilge blower used as well as the exhaust fan assembly.

Gee David, more power to you. I would just as soon reduce my exposure to this toxic stuff, and that includes cigarette smoke. Our lungs are pretty sensitive and damage to them is cumulative.

Antony

Isocynates are accumulative, one day while spraying, you just drop dead.
HI Ray, my gun is a Devilbiss SRI HVLP.
A perfect setup in my opinion would be, air entering from your back, across your work and up slightly and out, you gotta keep that overspray away from you.
Also try to wear one of those paper like overalls to keep your hair and body particles off your work.
Rcpete

Pete just described my setup. The air enters at my back, moves across the work area and exits through the rear of the booth. I set mine up so that airflow goes from high to low. The reason I did this was because I knew that auto body shops use "downdraft" spray booths. I reasoned that this meant the airflow was downward to take advantage of the tendency of the particles to descend due to gravity. I don't know if this is actually how the professional booths work, but it seems to work pretty well for mine.

I would also add that it is good to protect your eyes and skin. Eye tissue is pretty porous and allows chemicals into your system. For this reason I often use a full face respirator. Your skin also absorbs chemicals. I wear latex gloves, but I am not sure that this is sufficient protection from the paints and solvents we use. If anyone has any insight I would be interested in hearing it.

Yeah, some of you are rolling your eyes thinking that I am overboard on the protection thing, but I would just as soon avoid wheeling around an oxygen tank in my later years.

Antony

You guys are not overboard at all. Known and well-documented hazards..some naturally have less sensitivity than others...but no one knows where the line is. Twenty-five years ago, I sprayed Delthane on a Sig Skybolt w/ only a paper mask, some ventilation.....soon got an unexplained pnemonia that was a month to shake. So, I'm sensitized, I assume.

New stuff has less concentration of the di-isocyantes, but I now use full cover, positive air...and all the skin protection Antony suggests when using this stuff. Uh...respirator intake air from the booth exterior.....

I'd think that you'd want the mist/overspray to exhaust gently from low to high...keep settling on surfaces to a minimum. And certainly greater air turnover than a complete exchange only twice a minute, Antony. Must be a spec/recommendation somewhere. Yeah, nice gun. I use the same.

Ray

.

The guys at PPG told me that the Omni line is not as good as the top drawer PPG paint in the following ways:

1) It does not cover as well as their top of the line paint.

2) It is not as durable as the good stuff

3) It does not contain as much of the UV blockers as the top of the line paint.

4) It does not contain as much solids as the good stuff.

For what we use the Omni paint for is great for our models---Our models are not going to be exposed to the elements nearly as much as a car will be.

Kevin