After collecting the various pieces needed to make new my fueler I still needed to decide how to mount all this gear to the can and I was looking for something better than sheet aluminum. I found the solution at the Slimline Product booth during the Toledo show.
They just released this new fueler to work with the new style ventless fuel cans. I'll let the photos do the rest of the talking.

Nice setup. Is that a Sig [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDJR7&P=7]Gas Passer[/link] pump attached to it? I assume that the slimline part you are referring to is the machined aluminum cap?

How much? More details please

How well do you think the neck will hold up over time to the weight of the batteries and the pump bouncing around during transport?

Keith,
While I have not weighed the completed unit, I do not think there will be an issue with the neck of the bottle carrying the weight.
I can weigh it tomorrow if you like. Weight is 1.75lbs

The slimline unit was $40.00 bucks which included the nicely machined metal cap and standoff, tubing, clunk, self sealing fueling probe,fuel jug and a hand pump. The pump is the Sig Gazzer $35.00 and the 5 gal jug was $7.00 bucks at Lowes. The box and switch came from radio shack for about $10.00, two filters $5.00 each and the 6 cell Nicad pack $2795.00 came with my P-70.

One of the reasons I went this way was to have a mobile fueler. Since I only fly a P-70 a 2.5 gallon container will provide me with 5-6 flights at the local flying field so I don't have to carry as large of a fuel container on those days. Then when I go to a multi day meet I can simply move the pump system to the big container. Also it would allow you to transport a fuel system in say a jetcase and then you can stop by Lowes and pickup fuel jug at your destination.

My Sig pump wore out after one season. I hope yours lasts longer.

Joe

This looks very good.

I can't work out though how the switch box is mounted exactly[&:] I've looked at the web site from Slimline and still can't work it out, sorry for being stooopid........

It looks as if something goes around the can neck, which attaches to the rod/tube that goes to the switchbox and I am assuming the cap then screws on ever retaining it......

If that is the case, could you show us a picture close up, if not then explain to this dumbass how it works!!!!!

I think it is just right, as you can decant your "big" bowser in the car to the smaller can, and have that neat unit right with the model, shortening fuelling tubes etc.

Looks really good, I am impressed!!

Gazzer

There is a bolt that holds the standoff to the metal cap. The standoff has a flange and is predrilled and tapped for two 4-40 screws which hold the box to the flange. I even drilled a hole in the side of the battery box so I can loosen the bolt that secures the standoff to the cap so it makes it easy to remove the battery box from the cap.

If the pumps goes in a year I'll buy a better pump, no big deal.

R_Belluomini, I tried something similar to what you have, but I quickly found out that it is prone to getting bumped and it eventually gave out “Murphy’s Law". That is when I went with a more conventional setup using more or less the same materials. Here is a picture of my setup. If any one is interested I will post a how to and a materials list in a different post.

Joe, my first pump failed with in a couple of weeks luckily I was able to send it back for a new one. It has been over a year and it is still going strong! I am also running it on 9.6v as opposed to 12v. I find it is easier on the fuel tanks and I suppose on the pump as well.

AKA Bubba,

I think in my situation your design slightly less work for me, I'd be grateful for your indulgence re how to and materials etc.

Gazzer

Bubba what got bumped and gave out? I am running my pump on 7.2 volts if it still tends to bubble I will try the smaller fittings too.

It was my project box. The plastic could only take so many bumps before it just broke right where I had the box mounted to my make shift aluminum mount.

Thanks for the reply. I do not see that being an issue as the flange is 2" wide and one end is close to the bottom edge of the box.
But I will keep an eye on it.