I finally got my Fadec hooked up (well, the thermocouple anyway) and was wondering what temp I should expect. It's putting out
590 C at idle and just over 600 C at about half throttle. Does this sound decent? Just wondering...
Martin

Wait till it finally cools off and measure the temp. If it is the same as your ambient room temp then it is working ok. the numbers you mention look ok. What turbine are you running?

It measured ok just sitting there cold last night. It's a 60mm homebuilt. I'm using a Fadec manual start, flightworks 200 pump. I am currently using a home made inconel 718 wheel. I do have a 60 mm cast wheel from Phil Heward just waiting on my making a new shaft for it. I also need to turn out a new spinner to hold the magnet. Here's a link to some pics of the engine inside and out.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391515

Thanks,
Martin

You'll find that the EGT value changes a great deal with respect to the probe's insertion depth. From experience, those numbers seem good so long as the probe has at least 1.5mm exposure to the exhaust flow. If its less than that and you're getting above 600, you may have the probe positioned radially in a hot'ish quadrant. Generally speaking though, if the engine is acting up and the EGT's are starting to become a bit suspicious, you'll see it start to give a red glow in normal daylight conditions. Red glow in the evening isn't indicative of a problem normally though, unless it's REALLY red. Short story, you're probably OK.

Scratch building a wheel ain't easy. Well done! Keep a close eye on it though. A good friend did the same on one of his KJ's and eventually converted to a cast version...

Kelly

temps looking good

sensor needs to be in about 2-3mm.
best is to put it at the hottest spot , usaly at 4o,clock position.
temps are ok for a 66 means you did good........!

Being a homebuilt engine, I've worked through the glowing in the daylight stages. Now it's just glowing at night...I've actually been running it with the temp sensor in the nozzle about 1/4 inch. The wheel started life as a flat piece of inconel, I turned the profile, slotted, and bent the vanes. This works good, but leaves some fin at the root that is not curved at all. I figure if it runs good with a not so good wheel, it ought to run good with a cast wheel. I just need to make a new shaft since the cast wheel is about twice the thickness of the old one. Hopefully get that done soon. Gonna try and get the tach fit tonight to get some rpm readings. Thanks for the help

Martin

My friend Jon did it with a blank as you did, but he approximated the blade profile with a rotary table on a mill. Using different radii and locating them out of concentricity with each other, you can create a basic shape, that just needs a minor twist. It performed not much differently as compared to a cast wheel.

Kelly